Originally Posted by ja1217 (Post 1061086)

I have a couple questions regarding changing the pads on the Sprint system.

#1 Is it still okay to use these pads?

They are DS-Uno's. I have 4 track days on these pads and when I went to swap them out to put in some pads for the street, I noticed that the side of the one pad seemed to be corroding. I didn't notice any issues with them on the track though.

#2. What exactly are the directions for swapping pads?

All I've done is just remote the pad retainer bar and try to slide them out and slide the new ones in. However, this can be rather difficult and I have had to depress the calipers with my fingers to try and get pads in. Am I missing a step that will make this easier? I haven't been able to find any instructions for swapping pads for this system. I feel like the reason the one pad in the photo may have corroded on just that side might be because it got damaged while I installed them.

Originally Posted by swift996 (Post 1061631)

I had an opportunity to ride in a BRZ equipped with the AP racing sprint kit and wow :thumbup:

I had some weak street pads on my Wilwoods but the AP system had significantly more stopping force. Part of it could have been the passenger seat but I was very impressed. I'm swapping out my pads this weekend and will get another track day here in a few weeks which will give me a better apples to apples comparison.

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR (Post 1061674)

Show up to ITR Expo and we can compare. I know you can't for other reasons though :(

Originally Posted by swift996 (Post 1061846)

I wish I could. Although Mid-Ohio isn't too tough on the brakes (if they leave the chicane in). Plus I'll have my innovate supercharger on tomorrow night :burnrubber:

At some point you need to visit my home course, our cars were made for it:

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR (Post 1061872)

I was at Slummit a few weeks ago.

I will never run an event there due to history with them from 2004 (yeah I hold grudges when it almost destroys my event) but I don't mind visiting.

Originally Posted by swift996 (Post 1061874)

I'm hoping to get to VIR in august. I need to order an oil cooler ASAP.

Originally Posted by swift996 (Post 1061874)

I'm hoping to get to VIR in august. I need to order an oil cooler ASAP.

Originally Posted by ja1217 (Post 1062117)

What organization are you running with? I'll be at VIR with TrackDaze Aug. 26 - 27 and again in Nov 11 - 12.
@Dave-ROR

Just curious, but what happened at Summit? I was there last weekend and had a good time.

Originally Posted by ja1217 (Post 1062117)

What organization are you running with? I'll be at VIR with TrackDaze Aug. 26 - 27 and again in Nov 11 - 12.

Originally Posted by swift996 (Post 1062251)

That was one I was looking at. (August)

Originally Posted by ja1217 (Post 1064087)

Sweet, I'll see you there.

Back to my earlier post, is just removing the pad retention bolt all you are supposed to do to swap pads? Like I said, it can be difficult to get the pads in and out, especially when there is still a lot of pad matetial.

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR (Post 640323)

Leave one pad in when you do that BTW, otherwise you'll move the other pistons too which just makes more work when you do the other side. I usually remove the outside pad first, then open the bleeder, then push those pistons back in with two old pads (pads sitting horizontal, one per piston for leverage). Then install replacement pad. Then move to the inside, compress pistons again, close bleeder, install replacement pad.

You can just use a screwdriver between the rotor and pad that's already there as well but I don't use that method.

Originally Posted by JRitt (Post 642427)

Guys,
When you're pushing pads back in...be careful! If you do use the brake pad turned 90 degrees method to span both pistons, wrap the pad in a shop towel. Otherwise the edge of the disc against which you are levering can damage the pad. Also, the edges of the pads and gouge or damage the pistons...which is not good. Also, you have to be careful doing this with race pads. Some become brittle after a number of heat cycles. If you use them as a lever, drop them on the ground, etc. you can easily crack the pad material.

You may just want to fashion a small, smooth block of wood for this purpose. It will be easier on your pistons, your discs, etc., and you won't have to worry about breaking, scraping, or gouging anything. I had a little pine block that I used for years. There are a couple of caliper spreaders on the market (the Girodisc one comes to mind), but they are expensive and large/difficult to store and transport.

As Dave said...do one side at a time, or you'll be playing piston tennis....back and forth, and back and forth. :D

I'm getting tons of PM's...if you guys have any questions about what's right for you, call me 704-824-six zero three zero 8-5pm ET. I don't bite, and it's far easier and faster than sending 46 messages back and forth as I gather details!:thumbsup:

Originally Posted by Hanakuso (Post 1064169)

These are helpful