cracked rotors means they are too light for the track conditions. They crack due to heat spikes that excede the metals ability to return to static without failure.
he first rotors I was running cracked because they were two lbs lighter than the ones used on the AP kit we went up to that weight and have had no problems.
Ducting can help this. Our experiance is 1200 peak = few problems 1400 peak cracks about 50% of the time 1600 cracking almost for sure...

the OEM BRZ "RA Racing spec" brake ducts look promising, bit this is where my STI lip will go

http://worldautomodification.com/wp-...ont-bumper.jpg

I've decided to say goodbye to the fogs for summertime and got these APR Carbon Fiber Brake Ducts, which I'll be using along with 3" hi-temp hoses, which @JRitt was so kind to put in the parcel

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/cata...12050_1_lg.jpg
http://theattack.rallysportdirect.co...1/DSC_5072.jpg

I did some google image searching and it appears that they just throw air in the general direction of the brakes? I'd rather have it forced (as much as possible) through the center of the rotor to the vanes.

The BRZ RA Racing Spec or whatever solution looks nice from the front, and could be modified to fit the eventual splitter I'll have, but I can't see how it directs the air to the discs either :( More pics needed :)

Those damn things are just too expensive for me IMO. They need to offer them in plastic versions.

I guess it sorta does, but you could fab something to catch air and send it to the rotor vanes.
http://www.suncoastparts.com/mm5/gra...ar%20Ducts.jpg


I haven't seen the underneath of the car, but if it's anything like the brake ducts I've seen on other Subarus...it's just slits at the front that channel under the bumper and terminate WAY before anywhere near being useful.

That's the rear brake one, it actually looks better than the front brake one lol

Front GT3 "duct"
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/duct1.jpg

Possible on the RA, that's mostly why I want to see one complete. It did make me consider just using zip ties to attach a NACA duct there and run hose from that to a Touge Factory backing plate (or spend the time making one) though...

You could try fabbing up a front diffuser that basically funneled air INTO the duct; sort of like a diverter that terminated in the openings to the brake ducts.

*shrug*

We would do the same on the CSG car too. Forcing air through the center of the rotor provides the best cooling. :slap:

Fairly sure the RA cooling is an air guide, not fully ducted..... but I can't find the picture anymore.

I really like the idea of the vents underneath, just want (like everyone else it seems) it to be fully ducted to the rotor. I wonder if it can be custom made...hmm...

Wondering if someone could chime in and see if the sprint kit would fit ok on my wheel or if it is to close for comfort, Appologize for the abundance of pictures but i wanted to get a few angles. if anyone can say yes or no if they would fit i would appreciate it as i am trying to get these installed this weekend. to me it looks like it would fit but id like a 2nd opinion Thanks. Wheels are 17x7.5 45 offset.

Assuming that's centered in the center hole then it looks good to me.

Yeah it is the only time it made contact with the rim was when I had it pushed all the way back but centered thats the clearance I had. Wasnt sure how much clearance it should have before it becomes danger close so I wanted to get a 2nd opinion appreciate the feedback

It looks like you should be fine. You're looking for a roughly 2mm gap between the wheel and the template. Also, just make sure that you printed the template to the proper scale...measure one of the dimensions on the template with a ruler to make sure it matches what the paper says!:thumbsup: