Are they different from these ones on the uk ap page?

Had a quick look at these and I'm not sure they'd fit even under my 18s

Details are up on our blog page.

Yes, these are the same. They will more or less completely fill the OEM wheels up. There are wheel fitment templates available to check wheels...see my link above. Thanks.

Ro_Ja...this one's for you kid.:thumbsup:

@JRitt
Will there be an overhaul/service kit for the competition systems? I don't fancy sending calipers 1/2 way around the world to get serviced.

ta

Yes, absolutely! We have all of the components for the CP8350 calipers we use in our Competition Systems on the shelf. You can read about our caliper recertification service on the essex site. FYI...I don't expect this is something you're going to need to do very often. I know a lot of people worry about this, but the reality is different from perception. For example, we've had our T1 Corvette Competition kits in service for a few seasons now, and we've only had a few sets come back to us. Those were from the fastest guys running SCCA T1 races at every possible opportunity, winning national level races, etc., and it was more of a preventative/competitive measure than anything. The AP Racing CP8350 & CP8250 calipers are stout (8250 is the axial mount version used in circle track racing). We have many thousands of them on tracks every week, and they take a serious beating and keep on tickin'.:thumbsup:

From our site:
Essex is AP Racing's official North American caliper reconditioning center. We have skilled service technicians rebuilding hundreds of AP Racing calipers each year for the top teams in NASCAR Sprint Cup, ALMS, etc.

Hardness testing: After disassembly your calipers will be Rockwell hardness tested against the standard for that particular caliper type as sold new. This test provides a relative understanding of how much fatigue and stiffness loss your calipers have experienced. Tired calipers lead to pad tapering, increased pad wear, leaky seals, and a loss of pedal firmness, all things you want to avoid. Essex will make a replace or rebuild recommendation based on the results of this test.

Ultrasonic cleaning: After passing the hardness test, your calipers will be placed in an ultrasonic cleaner to remove all dirt, debris, brake fluid, etc. This method produces results that are far superior to what the average racer could accomplish via hand-cleaning.

Inspection and re-assembly: All serviceable parts of the caliper will be inspected and replaced if necessary, including the seals, abutment plates, pistons, and bleed screws.

Cyclical Pressure Testing: After your calipers have been rebuilt, they will be cycled at high and low pressure on a pressure bench to ensure proper functioning. This is important, as certain leaks only show up under specific pressure conditions.

Price: The labor price to rebuild a CP8350 is $78 per caliper. That does not include parts. Assuming there has been no damage to the caliper, Essex typically recommends replacing the seals ($40) and bleed screws ($15) during the standard reconditioning process. For roughly $125, you can have a fresh, professionally serviced caliper in peak operating condition.

What spacer is reqd to get stock alloys over the endurance kit.

My car will sit on the stock wheels between trackdays; no real mileage on them though

No idea.. 10mm allows them to clear the sprint. The design of the OEM spokes make me think it'll require even more. At 10mm+ you need extended studs IMO, or spacers with the studs built in.

might just by some used cheapo 18s instead

Make the template with 10mm more space where the spacer would be. Trial and error.

Just in case, maybe someone also has this question, as only hyper-racers live in this thread

WHEN would one want to switch to harder wheel studs than OEM?

I have Endurance kit and plan beat the shit out of it, so the wheel (studs ) would get hard time on the track. Should I upgrade to, say, ARP from OEM if dont need LONGER studs?

OEM studs often don't take kindly to removing/installing the lugnuts when hot. ARP studs also have a "bullet" nose to make quickly installing the threads easy (more important for pit stops on a race car than our cars but it still makes it easier). Also extended studs make installing wheels easier as they hold the wheel on better and have plenty of threads to start threading the lugnut without having to hold the wheel.

A few guys here have broken OEM studs already. I mostly replaced mine for the lazy installation benefits. I'm a fan of ARP studs.

Don't most people who want a BBK already have aftermarket wheels?

Don't most people want a BBK that has great clearance :D

Probably but they may want to use stock wheels on the street (or track, or winter, or as spares, etc).

So I guess you guys that have these kits on, are just changing the pads out for your road miles?

How material is the lack of boot in the piston corrosion / road salt argument?

Not planning on driving in high salt conditions but there is always the risk it will be around.