Currently in the process of doing this, will black rtv work alright? I can go buy the stuff from Subaru but I already had 3 tubes laying around my shop and thought I could use that but the stuff I peeled off was grey (assuming it's the oem sealant.

I used some of the Permatex Right Stuff Black on some of the head assemblies in my engine and it's holding up just fine with no leaks. I was using the Grey but ran out of it so used what I had. I did some internet sleuthing and really couldn't find a difference between the grey and the black. Only that the grey was for asian vehicles. Just make sure you use the right amount of sealant and torque the bolts down in the right order and follow the curing instructions on what you have.

As much of a PITA it is to do that job I prefer to use what the factory calls out. You can order it by the tube on amazon. I actually have one sitting here on my desk.

fify

I put a nice thin bead down on the cover like the maintenance manual said to do. Cured over 24 hours, added oil, coolant, and ran it. Currently have just under 200 miles on it (it's like 100 miles to drive to and from work) and I have not seen any leaks yet besides a mystery coolant leak that I've yet to find the source. I believe the coolant leak is from my radiator as the previous owner was in a rear end/headend 3 car pileup and the condenser and radiator have a bow to it that I only just now saw when doing this project.

As for what some people have said in this thread, for anyone ever attempting this at home, this is one of the biggest projects I've taken on next to pulling and rebuilding the engine in my first car. Take every precaution, go slow, get new packings and seals, and read the service manual. Expect your car to be out of service for 3 days, 4 days max. Also it cost me around $300 for the parts, fluids, and tools needed.

Depending on how many times the engine has been disassembled or a human has done the sealant, you might consider dropping the oil pan to and cleaning it out. Specifically looking at the oil pickup tube.

This was mine after I spun a rod bearing at 78k miles, after having the dealership replace the shortblock at 54k miles and getting the valve spring recall done around 65k.

https://i.imgur.com/LjVW9hp.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/SFnbsHk.jpeg

I have done this repair...in the car.

From that experience I would highly recommend pulling the engine instead of doing it in the car.

Order all the required o-rings & seals beforehand, use the proper grey sealant, Subarubond, Hondabond, Ultra-Gray...they are all the same and made to adhere to aluminum.

As mentioned previously, the bolts are used in certain spots, keep them in order when removing them.

Removing the cover is...fun, even with all the bolts removed the sealant holds it tight, be sure to not mar up the sealing surface when pulling it off.

Once the cover is off, plug the oil drain passages to the oil pan with something (rags, etc.) to prevent gasket material from getting down into the oil pan when you are cleaning the surfaces.

Use plastic razor blades or an aluminum safe gasket remover along with brake clean to clean the surface. Don't use anything that will damage, score, cut into the aluminum or it will be much harder to get a good seal.

Also as mentioned previously, get 2, 4 to 6 inch long 8 x 1.25 threaded bolts and cut off the bolt heads. Hand screw them into the block at each top corner to help guide the cover on and keep it aligned.

Remove rags blocking oil pan drains

Remove oil pan drain plug

Spray brake clean through oil drains into oil pan to clean out any sealant residue.

Install all new o-rings

Apply sealant as per service manual (pics below) and then you have 5 minutes to complete the next steps:
1. Put timing cover in place
2. Reinstall bolts and torque to proper value
3. Remove the 2 cut off bolts you installed to align the cover, install those two bolts and torque to proper value.
4. Let cure
5. Have a beer.

Hmmmmm... It appears my valve cover and/or timing cover is leaking in roughly the same place and getting bad enough to smear the underside of my car. I think it might actually be the valve cover gasket that is leaking.

Option 1: Order the permatex, spray away, and make my life easy.
Option 2: Pull the engine to perform a somewhat difficult operation because I like to torture myself to "do it right"?
Option 3: Try to fix it the right way in the engine bay because I really hate sanity?

Anything I missed?

https://i.imgur.com/A3ztc4b.gif


But actually see if #1 works, if not time for #2 :/

It's common, mine has done it since I have had the car. I just pull the skid plate and hose it off and clean off the engine once a year.

Mine is starting to be enough to blow back onto the underbody panels behind the skid plate. Probably should do something about it.

Oh, yeah gotcha. Mine made a mess, but barely made a perceivable difference on the dipstick so I didn't worry about it.

On an old car I worked on years ago, I tried taking apart the oil pump and resealing it- after 4 attempts at the repair the problem was made much worse! Learned my lesson, if its just a little leak, leave it alone or get a rag to sop up the oil!

Mine was about that bad. I kept putting it off but finally decided to try patching it from the outside before pulling the engine. All the sealant issue posts on here had me worried.

I cleaned it off once to find the right place, then cleaned it off a second time and smeared a thin (1/32") layer of RTV over the crack. It hasn't leaked a drop in a few years and held up to track time.

I think the key was finding the right place and getting everything really clean. If you don't feel like you're wasting brake clean and shop towels, you're probably not using enough.