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As stated in the original post, I have already referred to the service manual. And I'm not quite sure I feel so good about getting a valve cover off with the engine in the car.
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I get the impression no one has any actual experience with this. Hahaha. Mine is leaking too and wouldn't mind a parts list from someone who has actually done this.
As for sealant, if I recall correctly from reading around here, Subaru changed from Threebond to Fujibond. Not sure if Fujibond is actually doing a better job though. This isn't the sort of job I would be interested in doing every 50k. |
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Looking at the parts diagrams, it looks like quite a few o-rings and seals will be necessary. When I do this I will post a thread with a parts list and other info for sure. As far as sealant, I'm honestly inclined to try RTV Ultra Black. I can't find anything special about what the factory used other than that it's notorious to fail. |
DIY Timing cover leak repair?
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🤷🏻*♂️sealant is sealant. I just did a small bead around the cover and it’s been fine, tbh i think you guys are overthinking it. I did change my cam seals and VC but everything else i reused🤷🏻*♂️ |
Well that's good to hear. I didn't expect it to be crazy hard or anything but I'm just trying to be prepared.
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Bump. Anyone else done this? I just ordered every o-ring and gasket that I thought I might need based on parts diagrams.
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Checking in to see if you've done this project yet? I ask because I just did a rebuild and figured I could help with any questions you may have. As for o'rings there are only 4 to replace.
1 x SU00302186 : $2 3 x SU00302183 : $1.40 each Then you need one tube of TreeBond 1217H : $20 with free shipping on Amazon. I ordered 3 tubes of this stuff for my rebuild because I didn't know how far it would go. In the end I only used 2 tubes. But if you're only doing the timing cover then one is more than enough. The timing cover only has one bead size so you don't have to do multiple cuts on the nozzle which is nice. The packing seal also fits in a standard calk gun so it's very easy to apply. I did the job with the engine out, doing it in the engine bay seems like it would be challenging though. One thing I didn't do that I would probably do if I had to do it all over is insert the longer bolts (the ones in the far corners) into the timing cover to use as a guide then putting the cover back on. You don't want to place it improperly because it will smear the packing seal all over the place which would turn into a big pain in the ass. I had someone help spot me as I placed it back on the engine so I didn't miss place it. |
I have not done it yet. I'm planning to wait til the fall and maybe do new rod bearings while I'm at it. So thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.
I have to ask though, with all the failures on these valve covers, do you really think threebond is the best sealant? I can't help but think that if they'd used something better there wouldn't be so many leaking timing covers. |
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Cam Leak Repair
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My car was out of warranty so I jacked the front up, left it for a few days so oil could drain away from timing chain cover, cleaned it all up real good, applied automotive RTV in layers over several nights whilst also using a heat lamp to help speed up curing for a few hours each night. Has been on car over 1 year & it appears to have worked thus far. Fingers crossed.
Repair on #2 piston/RHS looking at the front of the car. |
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When I first started reading this I thought you were saying you removed the timing cover and used this method to seal it back up. Hahaha. This sounds like a WAY better fix than pulling the cover and running the risk of over doing the packing and running into oiling issues. Even if it only lasts a few years. Thanks for sharing this. |
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But, hey, if it works … it works … :thumbsup: humfrz |
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humfrz |
Timing cover is what’s in the pictures. Bank 2 down at the bottom seems to be where they typically leak. That’s where mine was leaking too. I was seriously considering your sponge fix though. Hahaha. Would still loose oil but maybe keep the mess to a minimum.
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