Aftermarket Crank Pulley Install
 

I just received my Light Weight Crank Pulley in the mail today. Decided to make a DIY tutorial for those who need a visual walkthrough. The most I've ever done to an engine was change a fuel filter and alternator on an integra years ago. This was a bit of a scary endeavor that worried me but I felt brave enough after carefully reading through the 2 page installation guide provided.

Tools needed:

Flat head screwdriver
Phillips head screwdriver
10mm socket wrench
Breaker Bar **
1/2" Torque Wrench**
14mm socket 1/2" Drive
22mm sock 1/2" Drive

** I didn't own my own breaker bar or torque wrench but for a $125 dollar refundable deposit you can borrow one from Autozone!

http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/.../perrin-1s.jpg
http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/.../perrin-2s.jpg

We will start by loosening the screws circled in blue that holds the intake and resonator tube together. Uncouple the oxygen sensor from the intake as denoted by the green arrow. Then use the 10mm socket to remove screws circled in red the resonator box and air intake (the third screw is to the right and is a bit of a squeeze to reach).
http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/.../perrin-7s.jpg
Remove the air intake and then move the tubing off to the right side.

http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/.../perrin-5s.jpg
With the intake out of the way you can see the tensioner pulley in blue and the crank pulley in red. We'll have to loosen the belt first by moving the tensioner pulley (note: not removing or loosening the bolt holding the tensioner pulley)

http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/.../perrin-8s.jpg
Using the breaker bar and the 14mm socket, turn it clockwise. When you apply leverage with the breaker bar it will move the whole tensioner pulley to the left giving slack to the belt. Slide out the belt from tensioner pulley and let go of the break bar gently. The tensioner pulley will slide back into it's normal spot.

http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/.../perrin-9s.jpg
Here is how the belt will look when loosened.

http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/...perrin-10s.jpg
Now make sure the car is in 6th so the crank will not turn when you loosen the bolt. With the breaker arm and the 22mm socket, you will need a good tug counter-clockwise to loosen the bolt. It will feel spongy because of the crank slightly turning but with the car in 6th gear it will not spin freely. Give a good yank.

Word of warning: It will require a bit of force so much so that tennis shoes are required to give you grip. And don't wear a belt or jeans! you'll risk scratching your bumper!

Once it's loosened you can remove and set aside the bolt and crank pulley shown below. Be careful as they will be hot to the touch if you have recently driven your FRS/BRZ!
http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/...perrin-11s.jpg
Admire the differences in weight and finish between the OEM and new crank pulleys!


http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/...perrin-12s.jpg
http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/...perrin-13s.jpg
To install the crank pulley you will have to line up the key hole show above. Make sure the crank pulley is facing the right away with the threading inwards.


http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/...perrin-14s.jpg

In the case of the crank pulley lettering logos should be facing towards the front. With the crank pulley aligned with the keyhold correctly it should not be able to turn freely at all.


http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/...perrin-15s.jpg
Get some motor oil and grease up the threads and flat surface of the bolt head before inserting back into the pulley.



http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/...perrin-16s.jpg
You will need to torque the bolt to 94lbs. Those of you not familiar with torque wrenchs you will turn the black grip until the zero "0" lines up with the 85 marking shown above. You then turn the grip until the 9 is lined up center. 85+9 = 94lbs

I must of forgotten to take a pic of this step but it is pretty straight forward. Using the torque wrench and 22mm socket you tighten it until you feel and hear a distinctive click.



http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/...perrin-17s.jpg
Now you will have to use the breaker bar and 14mm socket and move the tensioner pulley just enough so the belt can reseat onto all the pulleys. It will be a little tough as you seat the belt on one pulley and it comes loose off another pulley. Quite Annoying but use the reference picture below of how the belt should line up.
http://www.lastonehere.com/misc2012/.../perrin-6s.jpg

Inspect the belt and make sure it is seated properly on all the pulleys before reassembling the air intake and resonators in reverse order. Remember to reattach the oxygen sensor or you will get CEL. Start the engine up and watch the crank pulley and belt. If all goes well you have installed an awesome and very affordable upgrade to your FRS/BRZ!

Return breaker bar and torque wrench to autozone and get your money back! Drive back home the long way and laugh maniacally as you wide open throttle every chance you get with your new crank pulley!

Enjoy!

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1369004564
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1370863920
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1370906030
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1370906068
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1370906149
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1370906392
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1370906392

Extremely well written DIY! I installed it last week and did not oil the bolt ..( no instructions with my package), but its all good. I won't be taking it out any time soon.

why not leave the tension on the belt while you break the bolt loose, once loose then you can adjust the tensioner... this should help keep the crank from moving....

or use the impact to zing it off lol

As a Toyota Tech i have to say this is one of the best DIY write ups great job with helping other. I guess that is why we are all apart of this club.

:coolpics: :w00t:

Did you really have to quote the entire diy writeup to say thanks?? Lol jeez I am also very thankful to the OP. My pulley is waiting to go on my BRZ when I take delivery next week! I cant wait!

Great DIY write-up...thanks!

I saw in the Perrin instructions that it should be torqued to the same value you posted, however the manual says 14.5lbs-ft , then tighten an additional 90*. Anyone know which to go with? I assume turning it an additional 90* brings the force to nearly the same amount, but.... :iono:

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2

NIce write up thanks to the op

Sorry bro didn't realise I did that.
:bonk:

So what kind of difference are you seeing with this pully. Awesome write up.

is the perrin pulley balanced for the car? the oem balancer should be perfectly balance and i was curious if this new one would throw it off at all. anyone know by chance?

From what someone posted in another thread, the Perrin crank pulley is not balanced. However, no one has mentioned any problems with it, yet.

I have a feeling this probably didn't give you close to 27whp LOL

You need a lightweight flyweight AND the pulley, dummy! :D

OH RIGHTTTTTT ;)

I doubt you needed to oil it anyways since it's practically a brand new engine but it's probably for peace of mind. How are you liking the new pulley?

I don't know about leaving the tension on when i break the bolt loose, but it's already stiff with it in 6th gear. Yes an impact gun is easier but a breaker bar would be easier to get access to for the rest of us without a nice gun and compressor.
thanks! I hope it really helps people avoid mishaps and share any tips and criticisms I may have left out!

haha he can always re-edit and remove the img /img tags. congrats on your brz! drive it stock and maybe break it in before you install the pulley?

you're welcome!

the way torque works is it is not additive. you just push until you hear a click. The whole initial 33lbs part and note the 45 degree turn I think applies to older worn engines. The bolt is practically new I don't think you need to worry about replacing it unless you fubar'd it. maybe someone can clear it up for us?

thanks, I will clean it up a bit and add missing pictures and steps when I do some local pulley installs for whoever needs them.

try re-editing it and removing everything I wrote :happyanim:

So far the first three gears feel... "peppy" it certainly feels more nimble and quicker to get me to 5k-7.4k range. I'll have to drive more spirited. I've never hoped for more red lights before.. lol

I haven't heard of anyone having catastrophic damages done on the forums.. and I believe Perrin to be highly regarded by the Nasioc community. Yes there will be those .01% failure rates but it's the risk we take for the enjoyment of our cars!

LOL *cough* keep it clean guys. don't wanna start a new fresh thread now... :paddle:

Regarding "balance" of the crank pulley: most engine configurations vibrate to hell, in order to lessen this manufacturers often have a dual purpose crank pulley. That is, the crank pulley also acts as a harmonic dampener to reduce the vibrations inherent to the engine design. Recall, I said most engine designs have vibrations; the horizontal/opposed-piston/flat engine does NOT. Therefore, the pulley doesn't need to act as a harmonic dampener. When queried about this in the early 2000s, SOA stated that the pulley was NOT a harmonic dampener. So people should stop talking about balance.

Issues seen with crank pulleys in Subaru applications typically manifest as misfires or ghost misfires/CELs, usually when used in conjunction with lightweight flywheels.

Wow, compared to my friend's Si that we'll be changing that crank pulley on, this is a breeze! Thanks for the write up! :thumbsup:

lol... edit your post where you quoted the WHHOLE thing.. and remove the images so this is readable.

Wrong... A pulley can still be unbalanced without the shape of the material being the cause. Think of the reason you get a wheel balanced when you change tyres - it's to make sure the whole wheel is balanced around the central axis. A poorly balanced wheel can shudder and vibrate while driving, it can also reduce the life of things like wheel bearings and suspension bushes as a result... However, due to the relatively small inertia of the pulley compared to the crank, and the fact that the pulley is probably not far out of balance in the first place, it shouldn't matter.

As for the adding oil to the thread of the crank bolt, also a bad idea.. Adding oil modifies the friction of the threads, meaning you overtorque the bolt (as with the oil you have to tighten the bolt more until the same torque registers on the torque wrench). You should not add oil unless it was stated in the install instructions.

Finally, in general, when a bolt is told to be torqued to a certain torque spec, and then turned through another angle, it is generally not good to reuse that bolt. The extra turn usually causes the bolt to undergo plastic deformation - ie. the bolt stretches (as with head studs/bolts), which has usually been done when the pulley was first installed from factory. This will probably not matter either.. I'm sure Perrin would have done their research when they came up with the instructions.

Added to the DIY Directory:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7365

Perrin's instructions call for oiling it.

Let me amend my statement: people should stop talking about crank pulley balance. Nearly every time a person uses crank pulley and balance in the same sentence they are referring to a harmonic dampener, not to the actual balance around the central axis.

Then we have no problem. :)

It was really just to clear it up for anyone unsure about this kind of stuff. I didn't mean to come off as aggressive, if I did - I'm only trying to make sure noone does any damage to themselves or their brand new car! :) I know there are a lot of people on these forums that have very little mechanical knowledge or experience, and so making sure everyone is using correct terminology, and that everything is explained well (as with this DIY), along with giving good information, is important to keep everyone safe...

Ugh, don't remind me. The crank, alternator, and idler pulleys were royal pains. That crank bolt was FIERCE, I think I suffered some permanent hearing damage from hearing that damn thing pop off. ;) I think I tried putting it in 6th on the Si and didn't have any better luck. I do know I ended up with a cat-claw in the flywheel to get it to bust.

I can imagine it already, "hey man, want to help me do the crank pulley in THIS car?" :D "Oh no, not again..." :( "No, really, it's a lot easier I promise!" :)

done :thumbsup:

:iono:

What i use at work is a chain wrench and you can find them at your local parts store (for any one having problems taking the crank bolt off)

Recommend placing a old belt or rubber hose around the journals of the pulley to protect it from damage.

I suspect they are virtually equivalent. Or at least I hope so. Not all torque wrenches go up to 90 lbs-ft. For instance the one I have only goes to 80 lbs-ft. So what I'm going to do is dial it in to 14.5 lbs-ft and then do another 90 degree turn as the manual states. I will be doing this install sometime this week. I'll post if I have issues.

When doing mine the other day, the part that the pulley rides on came out. Let me tell you, it was a bitch to put back. there is a notch on the back of it that needs to be lined up, and has no wiggle room. Once it slides out a 1/2", then you got a problem. Be very careful to make sure this doesn't happen.

Well done!

Did you get that from TiTAN by any chance?

I sent him my money but later found that he got banned which would explain the lack of communication from a otherwise really quick to respond vendor.

have any contact info I could use?

anyone in socal that has done this mod that can helped me do mine???its been a month since i received my pulley i already try 3 times to take off the stock pulley but i cant.the stock pulley keeps rotating everytime id try get it loose.ive done everything right,car in 6th gear,ebrake,brakes but the stock pulley rotates so i cant get it loose helpppppp :(

I spent about two hours trying to loosen the stock pulley. My mistake was, I was not setting the e-brake hard ebough and the crank kept rotating. Also, use a long breaker bar, set that e-brake very firm and 6th gear and turn it. It will work.

im in cerritos, just installed mine last night.

though it wasnt easy, i was able to do it in under 30 min.

I usually gets home around 8, let me know if you want to bring your car by.

like i said im doin everything right.but my stock pulley rotates way too much idk why

How long is the breaker bar you are using?

I did mine the other day. The vast majority of what I did was the same as the OP's. The biggest difference though is that I didn't need to remove the filter box or sensor, only the intake tube.

My list of tools was sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 14mm, and 22mm. Also a ratchet, short extension, and a breaker bar. You may also need needle nose pliers to remove the PCV tube from the intake tube. Oh, and of course a small amount of oil.

Also, make sure the O ring doesn't slip off.

Great DIY! I wonder if you could use anti-sieze on the crank pulley bolt instead of motor oil. [Speaking here from the land of road salt and sand.]

I had this problem as well. There's a simple solution that should solve your problems.

-Put the car in neutral
-Put the beaker bar with socket on the pulley
-Move the breaker bar as far CLOCKWISE as it will go
-Put the car in sixth
-Pull the breaker bar COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and you should have enough room to break the bolt loose even with the play in sixth

Good luck.