Yeah, same here. The bolt wasn't terribly difficult to pull off. Didn't even have to brace myself on anything. I just stood in front of the bumper using a simple 24" breaker bar and leaned back back until what little slack there is was gone, then began slowly pulling harder and harder until it dead stopped. Then I pulled a little harder and it released. Took all of about 15seconds. It took some effort, and I pulled HARD...but I wouldn't say it was difficult. :iono:

I suggest people put their backs into it a bit before using odd methods like engine torque to spin it...

according to the new service manual the crank shaft bolt should be tightened in a different way from 94lbf, the new way is 14lbf and than another 90 deg turn on the bolt.

I was wondering if people are doing it the old way or the new way ?

I have AT and I am not sure i can pull the replacement the new way without some damage to the aluminum pulley.

Tried the same mod yesterday but failed.
All went well, I did even remove the spacer and popped it right back in.
However, it appears as though my new pulley is too slim, the Shaft is poking out. When I screw the bolt as far back in as I can the pulley has about 2mm of play on the Shaft. Putting the old pulley back solved the matter completely so I'm sure I did as well as I possibly could.

But what did I miss? Do I need some kind of washer between bolt and pulley or something?

I installed a crank pulley without issues. What kind of pulley are you using? Maybe it is not the correct for our cars.

I'm going to get some hatin' for this but as the pulleys are a mod I don't entirely believe in yet I went with a 3 pc kit from Ali. As season end is near I figured I could give them a shot.
Even measured them before touching the car and they're as round as stock, well enough made.
I'm also absolutely sure I bought the right kit

Great DIY. I had installed 2 of 3 pieces of a LWCP set. I have a stage 2 clutch which is a world of difference on RPM drop (if you're worried about rev matching downshifts or foot heel). The pulley is not worth the possible trouble it may cause (Seems to be general consensus that harmonic balancing and benefi:risk is no good). I am going back to stock and this DIY is gonna help me do another pulley install.

Serious LWCP kits are designed like this for balancing the overall weight reduction. You cannot install 1 or 2 pullies from the kit, since you are creating more weight imbalance in the system. If you want to use the harmonic balancing characteristic of the crankshaft pulley, better to not change anything else.

By the way, I was watching some weeks ago a nice video mentioning the Porsche factory lightweight flywheel and the absence in some models of the harmonic balancer.

https://youtu.be/DqtXJ9b6SHQ

I swapped mine back to stock. It seems to have helped with the chatter, but I need to drive more. If so, it was worth it. My chatter was bad.

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What's the part number of the crankshaft bolt and o-ring?

Also, does anyone know where I can download the most recent version of the service manual that explains the missing steps.

The crankshaft bolt has part number 12369AA091. I didn't change the oil ring. It was in very good condition.

Thankyou

Attachment 174766

I know I may not need it, but is there any O-ring that I can use other than the OEM. Its already going to take 2 weeks to import the bolt through the dealer.