The problem with the bearing design is the aspect ratio of the center bore. It's too shallow, making it vulnerable to binding and galling. Once it starts, it quickly progresses to the point where it binds with more resistance than the load limit of the fork. The quill is essentially a consumable part.


The support bushing could be made taller so it projects more deeply onto the quill. There's plenty of room and it would greatly reduce binding and galling for free.

Yep, ol @Ultramaroon schooled me on that - ;)


humfrz

@Beachin86, quick question:

Your Series-10 is from 2013 so your 36-month warranty ran out in 2016-17. You got the Toyota Golden Ticket Extra Special Super Sonic Service Plan (as I did) that allowed you to get the work on your TOB done "free" under warranty?

The last time I tried to renew my service plan with South Bay Toyota, they said my Series-10 no longer qualifies. :-(

We might have different warranties. The one I got was called the Elite Protection Plan and apparently it's not from Toyota but a third party. I think I remember being told that if I wanted it, I had to buy it then when I was buying the car. I thought I was getting suckered into it, but this was my first car purchased from a dealer, so I wanted to be covered. So far it has covered all my TOB work and next week I'm getting my door locks replaced since the servos are going out, so I either have to leave my car unlocked or crawl in from the trunk. lol. Anyway, I was quoted $1065 for both sides on that, and miraculously it is also covered under the sucker warranty. So at this point, it has more than paid for itself!:thumbup:

@Ultramaroon, how hard is it to remove that front bearing retainer/quill?


I've been chasing a small oil leak since I changed my TOB and clutch last fall. At first I thought it was the oil pan, because I dented my old one during the job and put a new one on. But I changed my oil this weekend and cut off and resealed the pan, but the leak was still there after coming back from a drive. I checked around the edge of the pan and oil doesn't seem to be coming from there, or to be seeping through any of the bolts.



Looking closely, it seems to be coming from within the bell housing. I use Motul transmission fluid, so it's the same color as engine oil.


Thinking back, I remembered seeing some oil at the bottom of the bell housing when I pulled the transmission. I didn't think much of it at the time -- I thought it was just grease from the old TOB. But now I'm thinking that retainer/cover is the source of my leak.


I saw in Techstream that the cover is FIPG'd on -- is it a real pain to cut off? I'm debating whether to go to the dealer to try to have it fixed under warranty. But I don't have a relationship with them; they haven't seen me since the free oil changes ended a couple of years ago.

It's stupid easy but I'm thinking your rear main seal is a more likely culprit. The gunk you saw at the bottom of the bell housing was the remains of the shitty factory grease applied to the fork and bearing. It separates and drops out.

Thanks! One thing that makes me think it's not engine oil is that I just changed my engine oil this weekend, and when the leak came back after a drive, it looked like dark, used oil. This batch of Motul trans fluid went in in October when I changed the TOB.


Either way, it looks like the transmission has to come off again to be sure. I'll try to get it covered by warranty first before I tackle the job again. I really did not enjoy pulling and reinstalling the transmission by myself last time.

2 things to help tremendously. You might already know the first but I have a special trick. The engine MUST be supported from the front so it doesn't flop forward. Use a tie-down strap to cinch up to the strut tower braces. Works like a charm.


Also get a nice little transmission jack. Your noob friends will appreciate it when you help them drop their transmissions. :D

Yeah, my over-enthusiastic supporting of the engine is how I dented my original oilpan :) I like your idea of using a tie-down strap to the strut tower braces -- do you route it under the oil pan?


And I picked up a HF trans jack -- after I finished my TOB/clutch job, a buddy with a WRX tried to rope me into helping him change his clutch. I declined :)


IF the dealer declines warranty coverage, I'm picking up a set of SUV jackstands to create more room to work underneath the car this time.

Well done.


At first I went into detail about the strap tip, but backed out after I realized that I don't remember exactly how I did it. I want to say I snaked the strap underneath the alternator and A-C pulleys but I'll go out and review tonight when I get home. I think I had to work around some delicate bits.


I'll post some images for posterity. :thumbsup:

I think I'm having this problem. Started yesterday. I noticed it after about an hour and a half drive.

I bought my car in August 2014 and have 58K on it so hopefully I'll be able to get this covered under warranty.

I'm probably going to be selling the car early next year so I don't want to spend several hundred on a clutch. I don't drive hard at all and the clutch feels great otherwise so I'm pretty sure it's still in good shape.

I suggest you check with the dealer on the possibility of a bad TOB being replaced under warranty - :iono:

I understand that once a TOB goes out on these cars - it can take a lot of clutch associated parts with it.

You may wish to share what you are hearing/feeling that leads you to believe the TOB is going bad?


humfrz

You may find yourself in a beautiful house, with a beautiful wife.