Blew my motor!!!
 

So I blew up my motor last week. I was devastated to say the least. I was running a Sprintex 210 kit on 94 fuel. The diagnosis was that I've spun a bearing. I had enough oil in it so not exactly sure how it happened. I was driving sedately at the time as well. I noticed a rattle as I was driving, didn't think too much of it (our motors always make weird noises) then it stopped when I fired it up the next morning, started up again half way to work and then by the time I got to work I knew something bad had happened.


I'm now in the process of working out what I do next.

So... I've been quoted 5k for a new motor including installation. Or
Approx 15 k for a fully built motor (installed) But then I have to pay more to get the power that engine can take - or leave it at 175kw atw. This is a lot of dough for that power so I think that option is out.

My question is what is the chance of this happening again on the new stock motor? Was I unlucky? Or am I better off just fixing and selling it off for a wrx, sti or renault rs265 (not sure if USA get these) that has that power stock.

Well you could go the route of seeing if the shop is willing to do a partial build and focus your funds on where the problems arise most. Rods and bearings.

That said no one can really give you the answer you seek. In the end a fully built motor while be it somewhat expensive and overkill for your senario would be the better option then another stock motor.

Some motors are simply over built from the factory and you see that refected in the price tag. Now days motors are in most cases built for fuel economy in mind and that is not always the best case for people looking to wring extra horsepower out of the motors.

What year is your car and how many miles did you run since boosted. I didnt think the sprintex was a high HP kit. I know of a car here in the US that had this issue several times. He is going to a fully built block this time, from what I understand. The rod bearings just aren't wide enough with enough surface area to handle the loading from what i have read and been told from folks with 1st hand experience. I am concerned about having this same problem down the road.

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How many psi were you running? 10k is a BIG difference but if you're going FI again it may be worth it.

When you price a short block (or any parts for that matter) be sure to get prices from both Toyota and Subaru.

Here in South Africa, there can be as much as 40% difference in price, and it can go either way.

Might be different there by you, but I suspect you'll find the same...

Are you using an oil cooler?

Same in Canada. It is weird how you can never be sure which will be less expensive since there is no discernible pattern.

Irritates the sh*t out of me, and just shows how corrupt the dealer parts business is :(

The upside is that we do have a choice of two channels.
Most don't :)

Dude, buy a used engine or build your engine if it didn’t destroy itself. A new block isn’t necessary if it isn’t damaged. If you went the Darton sleeves route, then machining will take care of many issues. If not, but the block is good, new crank, rods, pistons, and any head work should solve your problems. You can also buy a good sub 50000 mile engine for the neighborhood of $2000 pretty regularly. Good luck with whatever you decide!

Or just wait for the honda swap kit by pure automotive. Thats what im doing building the fa20 is stupid money. Im on the same boat as you its not worth it to keep the fa20 in. Im also boosted with ptuning kit aswell

If he just spun a bearing then the motor should be simple to rebuild. Probably it would be cheaper to rebuild and keep his SC kit, or cheaper to sell the SC kit and upgrade to a turbo kit to make use of the rebuild potential, than it would be to sell a blown motor then buy a F20/K motor that he has no guarantee is in good condition then sell his SC kit and buy a new SC or turbo kit for the F20 or K motor, plus the cost of the swap kit. Maybe and only maybe if he wanted like 500+ hp would the swap be reasonable for long term reliability.

@Docmattic ...The other option is do a rebuild, keep the SC kit, upgrade to E85 and enjoy the reliable hp without trying to test the limits of your rebuild.

I'm guessing another case of starvation due to galley blockage from over-application of sealant.

Who would be responsible for that? Is that a factory thing.

If true, it would be a factory thing. All bets were off once the blower was installed.

To rebut a warranty denial, the engine would have to be disassembled in a manner which preserves evidence of the blockage. Kind of a vicious circle.

If I were to develop rod knock or spin a bearing, I would carefully disassemble, clean, and rebuild the engine taking care to not repeat the error of sloppily applying sealant. That would be the most inexpensive and least risky approach, IMO.