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Hks EL vs JDL EL header comparison
I am looking to get a header for 2017 auto 86. I have a Drop in filter and OFT, I also have but haven’t installed the BPB. I think with the increased gear length the BPB may be a better fit for the 6AT over 6MT.
I think I have narrowed it down to HKS EL and JDL EL I am looking for opinions or even better data/dynos comparing the two. I have done a lot of searches and most dynos are no longer posted “third party hosting error” and most comparisons are UEL vs EL. I am looking for most power from 5500 to redline. As the Blocks should shift power down 500rpm working perfectly with the autos longer gears. 1st gear redline to second gear is 5200rpm and 2nd to 3rd is 5500 I believe. |
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The more I look/research the more uncertain I become... now I am really considering spending the extra money on PTuning 4-1 EL header top end 4500+ gains look top notch. Anyone got comparisons of Ptuning EL vs HKS EL or JDL EL. Or personal experience switching from one to the other?
Do any of them drone at all with stock catback? |
I would say design wise, PTuning > JDL > HKS. Not to say HKS is a bad EL header, it might be just what you're looking for - it has shorter runners than the Ptuning & JDL headers so may have more of a bias to the top end of the RPM band. But typically most people buy headers to have a better midrange, and get rid of the torque dip. Unless you have a specific need for max power above 5500 rpm, I'd recommend something that increases your torque 3500+ for street driveability. Cheers,Brad
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The increased gear is only for the MT, not AT. Because it’s AT, not worth modding. Just save for a turbo. A stock e85 tuned MT twin Can beat a fbo e85 AT tuned twin
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Whatever you decide to do, I’d recommend foregoing the Crawford Billet Power Blocks and finding a header that enhances mid-range and top-end power and then get the best tune you can. I decided to go with the following pieces and couldn’t be happier:
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6AT has longer gears then 6MT, hence top of second gear in AT is 63mph and top of 2nd on MT is 58, meaning AT stays in each gear longer. When i redline in first and shift to second I’m at 5200rpm I believe an MT is at 5600, and second to third is like 5400 for AT and 5800 for MT. So I feel the BPB will be more benifical on the auto.
I know FI is the way to go for real power. But I’m not looking to drop 5k+ atm lose reliability and lose warranty. Although I may go SC in a few years. In which case only BPB will have been a waste. For now I’m just sticking to drop in filter, BPB, header, tune. And new tires in near future. Might do catback and or midpipe depending on the sound with header. As of now I am leaning towards PTuning but JDL is still in the running. Would love dyno comparison or real world experience with both. |
Ace header was the first one I was looking at but it’s pretty pricey, although Ptuning isn’t too much cheaper. Which is why originally I was looking at JDL... but maybe I’ll just say screw it and get the Ace.
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I have a 2017 AT BRZ with JDL catted UEL & oft stage 2. Way better than stock. Great investment.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk |
Just ordered the ace 4-2-1 B 250. 350$ cheaper then the A-350 and looks like slightly worse mid range, A very small 500rpm dip, but smaller and way shorter then stock. But it also gets slightly better on the top end compared to 350. Good balance and for the price seems pretty good. Not sure if/when I will dyno or not but will be getting a e-tune with my OFT.
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