Aim solo 2/solo2 dl
 

Looks to be out soon with some nice improvements over the original. Anyone thinking of getting one?

I'm wondering what the phone app will look like and if they will include Android at a later date.

http://www.aim-sportline.com/en/prod...o2dl/index.htm

CSG is already taking preorders. ETA Feb.

Bumping this up. Anyone been using one? feedback? Does the DL play nice with the frs/brz CAN?
Additionally the prices seem pretty controlled, anywhere to get a deal on one?

My buddy has one in his 09 WRX. He likes it. It seems to work well. I'm eventually going to get one.

Get the first gen DL. Works pretty well so unless you really need the functionality of the 2 it’ll do almost everything you want.

Solo 2 DL has been total shit so far for me. First, it did not have the BRZ ECU programmed in, now that it has been added, the DL works half the time. Last weekend at COTA I had the screen turning on and off during one session and then it turned completely off during another session. Stick to the first gen until AiM fixes most of the bugs.

Whoa. That sucks.

Does anyone know when the iOS app is coming? Also, any chance for the Android platform too?

That's not how AIM units work.

I bought the aim solo 2 with the promise of the ios app for data analysis capabilities.

Their website touted that it's coming soon, i am wondering how much sooner would that be.

RaceCapture's Track MK2 seems like a less expensive item that can offer all the information AiM can do in a smaller, more compact package.

I've been running one for 2 weeks now, it's solid.

Not to mention that the screen is almost useless in bright sunlight half the time. I was hoping for more from my Solo 2 DL.

Ironically I sold my racecapture because I couldn't get it to work reliably. I was holding out hope the Solo2 would be plug and play.

My friend stuck his Aim solo on my dash for a couple of sessions and it was flawless, just as one would expect from a large player. That's what got me interested in the Solo2DL, that and the more powerful software.

The display is better in the Solo 1 than the Solo 2 in the real world. The brochure and online pictures make the numbers look darker than they are in the actual face of the Solo 2. Without the backlight on, if there is any light on my display - it's illegible. So I leave the backlight on, and hide it as best I can in the corner of the dash where it gets max shade lol!

I don't ever recommend buying anything based on "coming soon", unless it's a proven source.

"Soon" could be years, in AIM's case.

I have nothing but good experiences with my AIM Solo2, but it's not a DL and it sounds like all the problems are with the features of the DL.

I was in the market for a lap timer and waited on the release of the 2 since used 1's weren't much cheaper than new.

Same here. I have the non DL version. It has been great for me.

The non-DL works as advertised. The problem is the DL's do not have the capability promised, and it's been 6 months since the original promised launch date already. Mainly, these are just software and firmware issues, that quite frankly, should not be that difficult to integrate.

Seems AiM has just released the CANBUS integration for our cars last week. So users may want to try updating that.

Stupid question then, but can the DL pull obd2 data as well, or only from the CAN system? Is the obd2 data more reliable?

I have the original Solo DL and the OBD2 data is reliable. I'd expect the Solo 2 DL to be just as reliable. It seems to be the new features that they advertised months ago that are taking for ever. But, I'm guess Solo 2 DL market is fairly small (I see tons of regular Solos at the track but so far I'm the only one with a DL).

Can you expand on this? I haven't dumped my data yet but I used my 2DL last weekend and it was displaying temps and other stuff just fine.

"Programmable shift lights", predictive time modes, etc.

It can pull both.

I was able to program the lights to act as shift lights. I haven't tried setting them up for predictive timing yet.

Edit: I'm using the OBD2 connection, and it did seem like there was a lag in the lights. My 4th light was supposed to go red at 7200 but i would hit limiter before it would light up. Not sure if there's something wrong or it was just laggy.

It also seemed to be reading temps a little lower than I expected. It claimed my IAT was 9C/48F when ambient was 13C/55F.

Edit2: It also seemed to disregard my unit preferences. I told it to use F, but everything was displayed in C. I guess I'm having more issues than I thought, but they're fairly minor.

I brain farted. They're advertised as programmable lights, not "just" shift lights.

I'd rather have each light indicate a different threshold for me.

As of now, the Solo 2 DL offers zero value to me over a Solo DL. In fact, it's actually of less value, since it can't do everything a Solo 1 does at this time.

Very curious. If I could, Id go with the CAN (but do not know how?).

My OBD port is shoddy it sets on and off (reset) and I can never get proper data. Tried two different cables and a different DL (same issue). I have to plug the ECU connecter, pull it ever so slightly towards me so its snug, then duct tape the wire on the side to keep it that way. I even tried zip tying the sucker tight and it still screws up from time to time :(

Lutfy

It gets CAN via the OBD port so maybe time to replace it. Or, you can probably find someone that can directly wire it up, it "only" a couple of wires on off the OBD2 port. Good race shop should be able to do it.

What data elements does the logging function capture from our cars over the CAN/OBD? Throttle position/brake pressure, steering angle?


Edit: So this little thing will capture all these parameters(from another AIM threat) and overlay it with GPS coordinates, G force data and video? Wow. Wish it worked.

• RPM
• Vehicle speed
• Pedal position sensor
• Brake pressure
• Steering angle
• Brake switch
• Engine Coolant Temperature
• Intake air temperature
• Manifold air pressure
• Ambient Air Temperature
• Barometric pressure
• Lambda value
• Throttle position
• First Catalyser temperature
• Clutch switch
• Front left wheel speed
• Front right wheel speed
• Rear left wheel speed
• Rear right wheel speed
• Oil temperature
• Engaged gear

To be fully integrated it would require an aim smarty cam.

The firmware update for our cars now has it capturing all of the data promised. Mine works great now (cough, took forever, cough).

Does the software package it in a way that you can use it without a engineering degree? What have you learned using it?

What you get out of the data is purely up to you. All it is doing is giving you the information you collected. You have to interpret it.

At a basic level, look at your speeds. From there, you could go into all sorts of detail.

PM me to order an AIM.

There's plenty to gain from it if you 1) are consistent 2) have data from someone else to compare to on screen. It helps if they're in a similarly prepped car of course, but looking at the data traces side by side, you can see if the other person is breaking earlier, later, on the gas sooner, feathering the throttle or not, what their speed is through a corner and if they are exiting at a higher speed.

CSG mike is correct that it just collects data, the interpretation is up to you. But once you have aim data to share and others share with you, you can start to make some general judgements on where you're losing big chunks of time looking at your lap on screen side by side compared to others. The key is that you need to be experienced enough to be consistent lap to lap, or else your changes will just get lost in the noise.

Check this book out if you're willing- it's a great primer on this topic. https://www.amazon.com/Practical-Gui...words=bob+knox

Spend a couple hours on James Colborn's channel and you'll be a pro at analyzing data with Race Studio. He's a brilliant racer (a brilliant man) and his videos are well put together for learning how to get the most out of the software.



https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...8iHBjjNDnCNCTf


Make sure you are using the data for good and not bad.



What I mean by that is:



Good: Data illustrates bad behavior or poor car setup. It can be used to identify talent gaps or help you understand why that thing you think is fast, is actually slow.



Bad: The data says your car has a 1:39 in it when you're doing 1:43s so without any car or driver development you just go out to do 1:39s and run into things or other people.

Thank you for the book recommendations. Looks like it's going to be intense. The videos are excellent and pretty accessible. The gps overlays of his different lines when he overcooks a corner are illustrative.

Does this thing have any engine diagnostic uses? Can I add oil pressure logs to it?

Edit- answered my own question again. It can't. Need an Aim MXL or something. The rabbit hole gets deep quick with brake pressure monitors, tire and brake temp sensors ect.

Ok, the intermittent rebooting/flickering is solved now once I got the 86Nanny installed. When I did the pedal dance and had to turn the car on and off a couple of times with the Solo DL hooked up to the OBDII port, the Solo got confused I guess.


The only problem with the Solo now is that it stays powered on when the car is shut off even though I think I have it set to a 5-minute shut off. If I shut it off manually, I come to the car later to find the Solo turned on by itself, wtf.

Sounds like the OBD2 port connection is still shaky, and when a connection is detected, the Solo powers on.

It cannot be shaky because the Solo works fine during a super shaky session and then the car is parked/stationary with no movement whatsoever.


The 86Nanny OBD connector is firmly on, if it were not, my guess is that all the nannies would turn back on. The Nanny OBD port extension is also solid, I have to wiggle the Solo OBD connector a bit to uncouple it from the Nanny extension.

I have this issue as well. The power on and auto power off are inconsistent so I always manage manually and always disconnect from the OBD2 port on the 86nanny when done. I have the Smartycam HD as well and the two together will drain the battery easily overnight. This is with the v1 Solo to be clear.