Water & meth is an alternative

Yep, I've always been 100% open and honest with my dealer, and I had the same positive reaction from them, with no narrow-mindedness whatsoever. Sure, if any warranty issue could be attributed to supercharging, then there could have been some discussion about it...

Today, my car is 5 years old and well out of warranty, been supercharged and raced for four years, and I still get my Toyota dealer to do my gearbox and diff oil changes because I trust them more than I trust myself for those jobs.

My opinion on what the FA20 can handle reasonably safely boost-wise without forged internals - I'd say +50% whp/torque.
More than that is greedy, pushing the bubble, and inviting disaster IMO. YMMV

I’ll give it a shot. Do you know of any good kits?

I think it’s partially been mentioned, but how you drive and how you maintain your car is also an NB factor in the longevity question.

I’ve been for a ride in @Fish_Eagle’s car on track (great fun), but he always take a lap or two to warm up, and always does a lap or two to let everything cool down.
His engine bay was clean - a sign of someone who cares for the mechanics!
He isn’t boosted to 99psi.
And he does regular changes of things like oil/brakes & brake fluid/filters, etc.

Driving on track with him was fun, but I noticed he didn’t hit the rev limiter, accelerated smoothly (not choppy on/off the gas all the time) and although we enjoyed the full use of his engine power he has mechanical sympathy.

I don’t mention these things for any other reason than he’s a good example how you really should look after your car (whether track driving or not).

Boosting adds risk, but so does sloppy maintenance and really rough driving.

PTuning has a really nice quality water meth kit. I've been eyeballing it for a long time.

As for first post question, most have answered it for you. But to give you some more information. I've had two turbo'ed BRZs, one could handle 9 psi and the other 11 psi on 91 octane reliably without detonation, same ignition timing. I run 101 octane on the track, but only increase power very slightly and more so to save my motor (I'm tuned for both octanes and adjustable in between). A lot of how much boost your car can handle comes down to tune and how well you treat your car.

That’s very interesting... same FI kit on both?

Yes, almost 2 years apart though. November 2013 manufactured date vs May 2015. There will always be minor differences in one engine to the next.

I swapped the turbo over to a new car because the older one was suffering from phantom knock at low load, low rpm for absolutely no reason that I could find.

160WHP stock and 250WHP boosted - much more than that and its a bit of a lottery if you have good set of rods or not.

Yeah I'd agree with this.

Unless you believe the Facebook people making over 500 on stock internals.

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Apparently turbo kits are more efficient than superchargers because the engine has to spin the supercharger. The question is how much HP is going to spin an Edelbrock SC or JRSC? I can’t imagine that it is a lot—maybe 20hp—but if we are talking about what the engine can take then that will be the same for a turbo or a SC, but as measured at the wheels, the turbo will handle more to the wheels. Both might push the engine to 350hp, but the turbo might show 300whp and the SC might show 280whp.

From what I’ve read too, a supercharger is harder on the engine; downshift and the engine throws the supercharger to instant high rpms, so instant boost or instant torque. Some have even suggested low end torque is hard on the engine; I think specifically the rods. Maybe that is why the torque dip is there because it decreases forces at low rpms.

push until you find the happy spot or blow it up, no worries as long as you have 7k I will sell you a built fa20

They would have a similar discrepancy in flywheel horsepower too. FI takes hp to operate but it's not the same as drivetrain losses.

Lol. No manufacturer would do this on purpose.
The torque dip is the nexus of emissions and global laws Toyota had to meet combined with building a “cheaper” sports car.

More time and money (& a change in design) and they’d probably solve this.

Just headers + a tune remove the dip.