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3UR-FE Swap
Destroyed two FA20s in the past two years. The second one was built and had a very graceful death because of a broken valve spring unlike the first one that went up into flames.
Long story short, I'm putting a Tundra/Land Cruiser/LX570 5.7L engine in this thing. My mechanic is very capable and has done multiple swaps before but never in a twin or with a 5.7 but we'll manage. The reason behind choosing this specific engine is because I'm obsessed with it since 2011. I've had a Supercharged Tundra that ran 11.68 in a 1/4 mile and it's still holding the record of fastest Tundra in the world. The same tundra is being rebuilt by Dynosty, which some of you might be familiar with. It made over 1000WHP on the dyno with twin 6262s a few months ago. This build is unexpected so for the first phase it's gonna be relatively budget oriented so for now: - NA - Stock ECU - R154 (maybe T56 or CD009 if the price is right) Engine should be here this weekend or early next week. Transmission I'm not sure about and I would like your guy's input. Hoping to wrap this up before New year's. Future plans: - Haltech Standalone - Forged internals (optional) - TRD Supercharger Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk |
Good luck.
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I have decided to go with a T56/TR6060. Anyone have experience on how to pick them for best fitment on the twins? I know not to get the transaxle version that comes in 'vettes. Should I get one out of a Camaro, Mustang, Challenger, GTO, or CTS-V?
It will bolt on as following. 3UR (AB60) bellhousing, adapter plate between the housing and transmission. Re-drilled flywheel and probably a stock clutch. Picture is of the same method but with a R154. Done by a friend of mine in the Netherlands. |
can't wait to see how this project comes along. i have a 3urfe swapped into a 2003 tundra. it is currently getting twin charged. who made the transmission adapter? never seen anybody offer any.
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Are you doing this now because LS swaps are now a dime a dozen?
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Engine is here. Still missing a few parts and accessories but nothing that can't be found in a scrapyard or a dealership.
Regarding the transmission, I found out Vorshlag makes a bolt on LS T56 and it would be perfect for what I'm doing with some modification. However it's out of my budget. So the stock transmission will do for now, just need an adapter plate. I have a South Bend clutch on it rated for 400TQ. I'll do my best to keep my foot out of it and de-tune it a bit so the transmission doesn't shatter but that's for later. I also contacted AGT Engineering in Australia regarding their CAN BUS translator. They told me it should, I just need to know which signal comes from where. Quote:
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It was made by a transmission shop in the Netherlands. Be careful twincharging the 3UR, don't go more than 8-10 psi or over 550HP. That's their breaking point. I got away with 560WHP for a year before blowing a head gasket. Forged internals are easily found now so don't cheap out or you'll lose a block.
my engine has been built for the last 5 years. |
I always wanted to 1uz my FRS. The size of engine is what steered me towards the LS. It's in the plans if I ever get another one and somehow blow it up. Can't wait to see the progress
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i am using the ab60. would have loved to do some sort of manual but using the stock transmission was easier. what did you end up doing with your transmission to make it hold?
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Custom adapter plate is installed. Now that the transmission and engine are mated and in the car we can see that we need to move everything 6 inches to the back. I'm still saving money by not getting a T56 but we still need to fabricate a new transmission mount, driveshaft and shifter linkage. Once that's done we'll move on to the engine mounts.
The oil pan is too low and would need some "trimming". The oil filter bracket also sits as low as the oil pan. With some welding and some fittings we can do a relocation kit and probably an oil accumulator just incase the shallow oil pan causes any starvation but that's for later. Pictures of the engine are without the transmission mated to it. We were just eyeballing how would it sit in the engine bay and I think were all clear in every direction except the front where we might need to make some space for the crank pulley and most likely a "budge" in the hood for the intake manifold.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...196ae8557d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e6994868f3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f59b602ed2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...145e0d0f95.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b67896ee4a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ba7cb5957f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...219793ab0b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...40ec2e1a7e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...239ecc3c20.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2c0f144289.jpg Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk |
nice can't wait to see the engine mounted in the car! what sort of timeframe a you hoping to have it up and running in? on your tundra what size, brand and model injectors did you use to support 1000hp? i am looking at changing mine out before i send the truck to get tuned.
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On the Tundra I'm running the new ID1300X injectors with E85. You can getaway with the ID1050X if you're gonna run race fuel instead. Unfortunately if you want to run any bigger injectors than the ones that come with the TRD supercharger you'll need to do a standalone ECU. The factory ECU can't scale that high as far as I know. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk |
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