Picked up my Verus Engineering Front splitter with race upgrade. Quality looks top notch. Can't wait to install it along with a few other of their goodies which should come early next week. Too bad I won't be installing them until my wheels arrive along with my suspension diffuser and oil cooler. Only 1.5 months to go!!

http://image.ibb.co/ffDubR/IMG_20171024_151211.jpg

http://image.ibb.co/fYvwqm/IMG_20171024_151343.jpg

http://image.ibb.co/heaki6/IMG_20171024_151223.jpg

http://image.ibb.co/cxihVm/IMG_20171024_155140.jpg

Quick question in regards to brakes. My 86 is a daily driver but I do take it on back roads every fortnight and intend on going to about 4-5 track days a year. At the moment and for at least the next year I will be on stock brakes. Am i better of going for a hybrid pad like to Ferodo DS2500 or better of getting a street pad and then a track pad? From what I have researched, the DS2500 is a great hybrid so from my own research, leaning towards that. Other pad I am considering is the DS1.11 as that seems to have good bite when cold but retains performance up to 700 degrees Celsius which is plenty

Also, I am no professional driver. Will be going to my first track day hopefully in the next month or two.

I run HP+ at autocross and DTC 30 at the track, i do swap them out every event with oem brake pad for street driving. my car is a daily driver

you have a lot of mods already for a person who just getting into high performance driving.

I'd say the aero mods for your car right now is unnecessary as a novice driver, if you're just dipping your toe into HPDE just leave your car stock for a while and just do tires/brake/fluid. go to a lot more track day before you start upgrading the car. it's a lot harder to take full advantage and drive the car to it potentials. you're increasing the limit of the car before your own

Note taken. Very valid points. Thanks for the advice! :thumbup:

Car is booked in for dyno run on Monday to get a baseline. Will then be installing my FT86Speedfactory UEL catted header that night and get it dynoed and tuned on Tuesday (98 Octane). Can't wait to see that torque dip disappear!!

Painting Brake Caliper
 

Painted by brakes yesterday. Really happy with how they turned out!! This is my walk through. I decided to completely remove the caliper and dismantle it rather than leave it on the car so this step by step process for painting is for removing the caliper as well

Tools required
Socket wrench
12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
Breaker bar
12mm spanner (i used an offset spanner)
Flathead scredriver
Wire brush
Drill wire brush x2
Drill
Brake cleaner
Bag of rags
VHT Flameproof cermanic paint x2
VHT Engine Enamel Burnt Copper x2
VHT Capiler Paint (Clear Gloss) x2
Jack stands
Jack

Step 1
Remove your black terminal from the battery. This is required as when you bleed the brakes with the earth still on the battery, it can throw out a check engine light

Step 2
Jack up your car, place on jack stands and remove wheels

Going to start with front calipers then rear

Step 3
With 14mm socket, undo the two caliper bolts; not the caliper bracket. Just crack it so it is easy to undo once the caliper of off the car.

Step 4
With 12mm socket, crack the banjo bolt at the back of the caliper. Make sure to have some rags close to you as when you crack it, brake fluid will begin to come out. I have seen some people clamp the rubber brake line to stop the fluid flowing through. This made me uncomfortable. I tried using some plastic irrigation piping to put over where the banjo bolt goes but it was too small. So i just got a rag and pulled it through the hole until it was tight. I wrapped it on the spring.

Step 5
Remove one of the caliper bolts as if to do a pad change. At the moment, there is still brake fluid inside the caliper. Get a rag, and place it where the banjo bolt would go. Open the caliper and allow the fluid to come out. I lifted it 4-5 times to ensure most came out.

Step 6
With a braker bar and 17mm socket, crack the caliper bracket and remove caliper from the brake disc. Prior to completely removing it, it's a good idea to get some open ended lug nuts and screw to the disc so once you remove the caliper, the disc stays in place.

http://image.ibb.co/bCB536/IMG_20171026_095137.jpg

Repeat steps 3-6 for the other side and for the rears. The rears is the same process, except the caliper bracket is a 14mm not a 17mm. Also, for the banjo bolt, I had to use a spanner and the socket wrench would hit the spring so couldn't fit it on properly.

Step 7
Now that the caliper is removed, time to dismantle. Process is the same for both front and rears. First remove the two 14mm bolts holding the caliper together.

Step 8
Remove brake pads and the clips. Also remove the two rubber hats as well as the holding pins. It is a good idea to take some photos if it is your first time to remember the orientation of the clips and pads when you put it back together.

Step 9
Now that the caliper has been dismantled, time to get the wire brushes out and begin to clean them up. Aim is to remove as much brake dust as possible to get to the bare metal. Use wire brush and then clean off with brake cleaner. Repeat the process until clean.

Step 10
Now we need to mask off any areas we don't want to paint. This includes your piston, hole for banjo bolts and the two holes for your caliper bracket.

Step 11

Time to paint! First need to apply the ceramic coating. Apply 3 coats; the first two are light coats followed by a third wet coat. As i wanted to get full coverage, I rotated and applied two more coats on the under side. Picture is after one light coat. Don't get worried about getting full coverage on your light coats. The 3rd wet coat will ensure that. Allow 10-15min between coats

http://preview.ibb.co/jGDh0m/IMG_20171026_120023.jpg

Next apply 3 coats of your colour. This is what it looked like after 3 coats of colour. Again, two light coats and a third wet coat.

http://preview.ibb.co/gPKsi6/IMG_20171026_141553.jpg

Now it's time for clear coat. This will give it it's shine and final protection from brake dust. Once again, 3 coats with 10 min between coats.

http://preview.ibb.co/kfD2i6/IMG_20171026_150452.jpg

http://preview.ibb.co/cgp8O6/IMG_20171026_150456.jpg

Step 12
Time to bake. Preheat oven and bake as per can instructions. My caliper paint said at 100 degrees Celcius for an hour. I just used my domestic oven. Make sure to remove any tape that was used to cover up parts on the caliper. We don't want a fire!!

http://image.ibb.co/iwHv36/IMG_20171026_183442.jpg

http://image.ibb.co/c0o2i6/IMG_20171026_183447.jpg

All baked and ready to be installed.

Step 13
Begin to put together your caliper again. Once it is put together, reinstall back on the car and bleed the brakes.

http://image.ibb.co/cQ1SGR/IMG_20171027_091934.jpg

http://image.ibb.co/coS1bR/IMG_20171027_091942.jpg

Step 15
Step back, admire your work and enjoy a cold beer!!

Dropped my car off at PVS Performance today. Got to say, Tyler there is one very knowledgeable bloke. Down to earth, honest and full of useful info. Spoke to him about turbo vs supercharger and I may have been swayed to go for the Harrop Supercharger. But that will happen in a few years after warranty ends. For anyone in the Sydney area, definitely hit him up.


Very excited to see what results I get. Getting them to install my FT86Speedfactory Catted UEL header and get a 98 Octane tune. Hoping for 130wkw and 200nm and a very flat torque curve. Will be picking it up tomorrow.


Will also be posting some sound clips and dyno graphs with the header as well over the next few days.

Got the car back and must say, went much better than expected. Measured at the hub, I got 141kw and 208nm. Best thing is the torque curve is as flat as a table. Getting 200nm from 3,000-6700RPM. Will be posting my dyno graph later today.


The header has actually made the car quieter to me when just cruising around town. Not sure if it is because it has a slightly more boxer rumble to it. But man, when you get on it, the heavens open up!!


Clips of a pull and cruising can be found below;


[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sp-9028Vf70&list=PLrrDlm7oTCzych89n6kAzwPrhtR7q6XzI&i ndex=6"]Ft86Speedfactory UEL catted header & Tomei 60s Interior 1 - YouTube[/ame]


[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=znl0D0Jq15s&list=PLrrDlm7oTCzych89n6kAzwPr htR7q6XzI&index=7"]FT86Speedfactory UEL Catted Header & Tomei 60s Pull - YouTube[/ame]

That sounds great!

However, I don't know if anyone has told you this yet, but your steering wheel seems to be on the wrong side! :eyebulge: You may want to check and see if there is a TSB about that.

Hahaha. Us Aussies to many things back to front in the land down under!!

Will be going to my first drift event this Friday night!! Can't wait to give it a go. Will definitely be pretty average but hey, got to start somewhere!! Hoping to have a go as it is a free event so it is first in first serve and only the first 40 cars will be drifting.


Will definitely be posting some clips of me spinning out and hopefully some decent drifts.

Ah, I understand now. Just watch out for those redbacks and the 9,000 other venomous creatures you all have down there. :)

Seriously, though, your car sounds great.

Drifting is pretty much understanding throttle control once you break the back end loose. It just takes a bit of practice. Good luck!

I see you have been watching too my National Geographic and Discovery channel :bellyroll:


Thanks man. I love how it has a split personality. Cruising there is the faintest of boxer rumble and giving it WOT is just music to the ears. Love the @FT-86 SpeedFactory header as well. Down low it has the boxer sound and at about 4k the smoothens out and the Tomei takes over.


Yeah pretty pumped for drifting this Friday. On a wet skidpan so should be easier to get the tail out.

Dyno results 98 Octane
 

Pictures of my dyno. Very happy with the results.

Please bear in mind mine was measured at the hubs using the dynapack dyno so reads about 8-10% higher than those on dyno's measured at the wheels

http://image.ibb.co/ikBoTG/IMG_20171031_230155.jpg

http://image.ibb.co/gsWYvw/IMG_20171031_230146.jpg