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Anyone Have Lightweight Flywheel + Pulley + Driveshaft?
I have a lw pulley and flywheel. The RPMs rise and drop pretty quickly. I wanted to get a lightweight driveshaft but wanted to see if anyone had all 3 that can speak of how the car is with all 3. It is night and day difference with just the flywheel. It takes getting used to, but it is definitely better than stock.
Is there such a thing as too much when it comes to the speed at which the RPMs rise and fall in your opinion? Does it ruin driveability for you/in your opinion? Thanks for any responses. |
Well the LFA revs up and down so quickly that the analog needle can't keep up, which is why it's got a TFT screen with a digital needle. I figure if the engine spinning up and down works for LFA drivers, should work for us too. I thought the pulleys were more of a placebo effect to be honest. Did you do the pulleys before the flywheel?
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I am tempted to buy the driveshaft just cause, but I can't decide if it's worth it. So many different opinions on driveshafts... |
I had all 3 at one point. The flywheel makes the most difference. The other stuff, not so much.
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Driveshaft worth it? Just looking for the next part(s) under 1k. I can go with suspension mods instead and maybe consider the driveshaft later. The flywheel is probably plenty fine since it's such a huge difference. |
I went from stock to lightweight pulley to a heavier than stock fluidampr and had to try really hard to notice a difference between all 3.
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So my goal is just figuring out what to buy next. Suspension mods (minus coilovers) Brakes (probably too pricey until I get turbo) Rotors/pads Rocket bunny stuff (maybe, still up in the air if I want to chop my car up) Aesthetics... I'm just browsing for the next small <$1k project. I have: Wheels + lugs Coilovers Short throw Pulley kit clutch/flywheel full exhaust OFT Intake (just cause) Valentis mud flaps (looks) and a couple little things here and there. So I was considering the driveshaft to keep the upgrades moving along, but was wondering if it's worth it at all, now or later to get the driveshaft. |
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I did some calculations a while back regarding what kind of inertial losses you can recover by going to lighter weight rotational parts. Translated into hp, I think a cf driveshaft should have the same effect as adding about 2hp in a second gear pull. Less in 3rd, more in 1st. That's just estimated rotational losses with some assumptions. I didn't go back and do the hard math to factor in changes in acceleration and recalculate. I'll look up that spreadsheet next time I get on my PC to confirm.
Edit: cf driveshaft gets you about 1.5hp back in second, a -7lb from stock flywheel gets you 6. |
I have all 3 plus lw wheels and gutted interior, I got the aluminum driveshaft last and yes you can feel the difference!
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Firstly. There is a critical mass of flywheel (that is, going too light) when combined with lwcp can result in engine failure. This was posted by a respected tuner on these forums but I can't be bothered looking for it.
Secondly. I am hypothesising that rpm drop is ecu limited. If the throttle closes too quickly emissions go up. Third. Carbon drive shaft is great for total weight saving not so much for reduced angular inertia. Fourth. Lighter wheels make a great contribution to everything. Well, not everything but they reduce total mass, reduce angular inertia, reduce unsprung weight. Makes no difference to the GDP of Finland. |
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I could see the shaft causing trouble. The flywheel drops the RPMs in a split second as opposed to 1-3 (maybe 4) seconds. It's stupid fast now. It also alters the sound because of how quickly it drops. Vrm instead of Vrrrrrm lol. |
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