Stud trimming with spacer question
 

I have a set of wheels that don't have the extra holes for spacers. I'm planning on running 35mm spacers on some s1 3p for the rears(since the studs are about 35mm wouldn't need to trim). However, my fronts are going to be 20mm spacers, how am I gonna go do this isn't it unsafe to trim 15mm's of the stud?

Honestly sell those wheels, buy ones with the proper offset. No extra work, no lame spacers. No worrying about frankinstine set ups.

save yourself the headache.

Considering relipping it right now to the proper offset, I just want something temporary. By the way, the stock studs are 35mm right? Wanted to double check.

Actually, I'd recommend changing the studs to stronger extended aftermarket studs (ARP). This gives you flexibility to run whatever wheels or slip on spacers you want while helping to ensure your studs don't break easily.

Sadly, the stock studs are short and notorious for breaking if mishandled at all. You simply cannot guarantee that everyone that takes your wheels off are going to reinstall them without over-torquing your lugs.

Running a spacer is not some act of evil. Many people with BBKs have to run them to get caliper clearance on lower offset wheels. I've run spacers on extended studs for years on my car with no issues whatsoever.

How would I go with extended studs if my wheels have no pockets in them? Isn't the point of shaving studs to match the length of the spacer if you're lacking pockets?

MyNameIsCacauate: there are slip on spacers, studs simply go through. But to have enough thread for secure mount of lugnut you have your extra length of extended aftermarket ARP stud.

I'd rather stick to bolt on spacers considering 35mm is quite large, wouldn't want to make my ride anymore dangerous that it needs to.

Would extended studs and slip-ons be a better alternative to a 35mm bolt on?

just did a little more research! thanks for the output I think I'm going to go this direction! but are there any 35mm slip-ons?

or do I buy one of those project kics 30mm wide tread spacers that come with studs already, remove those studs and use ARP extended lugs. Is that how this works?

doesn't seem like 35mm slip on's exist, well good ones at least.

MyNameIsCacauate: i somehow missed bit of 35mm. Of course you can put multiple spacers for total thickness of that, but 35 is a bit on high side, with such i'd probably go for bolt-on ones. With 20-25 i'd consider both types, below - slip ons.

Which brings me to my original point. How am I going to run bolt-on spacers if my wheels have no pockets in them?

1. Yes, much better as you get the all the advantages of stronger aftermarket extended studs I noted above.

2. You possibly could find a 35mm slip on, but a more flexible route would be to get a stackable kit like the 30mm one Parts Shop Max sells. Just make sure that your spacers are hubcentric and are made to lock together. I also agree that 35mm is a lot of spacer, but for some body kits and applications extremely low offsets are required.

https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...-5-125-56.html

https://s3.amazonaws.com/ultracart/i...bBHZhVIUSxQ%3D

Never heard of these, considering them atm. Debating between them and the h&r bolt on.

wait a second.. I know these are stackable slip ons but isn't the 15mm one a bolt-on which then is still considered a "bolt-on" that is less than 35mm and so my rims still don't have pockets, how would this still work? i'm confusing myself..

...which brings us to the original solution suggested: buy the correct wheels for your car.

Wow, great thanks man I would've never thought about that! Let me just pull 4k out of my asshole and do just that.

That aside, I'm sure I wouldn't be in this situation if I had shelled out 4k for expensive rims rather than buy a used set at nearly half cost.

Oh, so you only spent $2000 on the wrong wheels. Much better decision.

You seem to misunderstand. I have plenty of viable options. The thread was meant to ask about spacers NOT asking for suggestions on which route to take.

First of all, I can relip these if I really want to and they'd be in brand new condition for still 40% off of MSRP.

So I mean.. argument pretty much denied. Guess you have nothing better to do.

So can we get back on topic rather than taking a fatty shit on my thread?

Plenty of options, eh? Then pick one and impress us, because so far your comprehension of using an inch and a half+ of bolt-on spacers and stock studs to make the wrong wheels work isn't doing it..

Mm, forgive me for asking a viable question. Please oh mighty king, bestow upon me the knowledge of being able to comprehend such a subject. How could I forget that I was supposed to impress people with questions about things I'm unsure about. Sorry man! I thought forums were for knowledge how could I forget that the internet was for trolling instead of information; how silly of me.

Anything else you'd like to say? I'm clearly dying for some more smartass comments.

Well, what's it going to be? You have plenty of options or you can't figure out how a 35mm bolt on spacer works and what wheel pockets are for?

(p.s. - that was a big hint)

Sigh.. still not with the program.. guess were not on the same level ☺.

I guess you've never really learned or picked up any sortve reading comprehension. It's okay let the grown ups handle this situation.

22mm will clear factory studs, but hardly anyone selling 22mm unless it’s a fully custom made one. 25mm is easily find. Been using the 42draftdesingn and adapted adapters for years and still solid.

Took a while to find the right pic, but found it.

Sorry if I was confused/confusing.

The 15mm bolts on, then the next 15mm worth of spacer slips on top of that to make a flat mating surface for the pad of your wheel. No pockets needed.

https://www.instagram.com/p/xXZ6sIFZwj/
https://www.instagram.com/p/4q3NnnlZ9H/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BASe9brFZ_O/

So basically for my fronts, I can still just run the 15mm spacer provided from PBM and won't need pockets? Or will I need the full stack.

Lastly, if I went with the ARP method and the 30 slip on stack method. Wouldn't I still have 5mm left to shave off?

If you went with the PBM kit, you wouldn't need to swap your studs because the 15mm bolts onto those and then the rest stack over it. Nothing to shave. Since there's still a little confusion, your best bet would be just to call PartsShopMax (phone number is on the website). They'll walk you through what you're trying to accomplish and clear things up.

That much, I can guarantee.

See, way to much headaches trying to Frankenstein them to fit.

I went ahead and purchased 2 pairs of 30mm stackables for the front and back. Considering many run work meisters with spacers, I believe the 35mm measurement may have been wrong for the stock studs.

Post your results. Hope it works out just as you imagined. :thumbsup:

Post pictures when you shoot the wheel across a freeway

sure thing buddy, I'll also snap one with your mums snatch in me mouth

If you can get that photo too I'll be doubly impressed ya whinge

Bolt on spacers are okay, I run 20mm bolt on spacers square.

That said, if you can find 25mm slip ons, I suggest sticking with those and ARP studs. It's a strong assembly with less failure points. Just because something is hub centric, doesn't mean the three brands worth of different tolerances will actually work well once you've stacked X, Y, and Z together. It's a recipe for vibration.

There's a shop near me that will custom make a single spacer to any size, and they are CNC'd to interlock with whatever pockets/grooving your wheel has, so they spin true and actually are like a custom hub centric + locking ring. You may be able to find a local service like that. (They will also cut a wheel's hub back to lower the offset and bring a poking wheel in for you.)

I think there are a few options for you, the PBM's will get you close and are a good solution since it's one brand and it's hubcentric. I hope they work well for you.