Can't Shift to 2nd During a Pull
 

As title says; what bushing do you think is most likely responsible for this? During heavy load, I am unable to shift from 1st to second. This only happens during shifts made during full acceleration and does not affect any other gears. I want to replace whatever bushing may be most responsible, but the car otherwise seems fine. Could it be a shift or transmission mount? Maybe the motor mounts (Though the motor mounts aren't showing particular play, neither is anything else on the car).

I'd normally blame motor mounts, but that's because I've always driven heavy 90s cars (3000GT VR4) and the motor mounts are subjected to much more age and shock loading.

Might need to double clutch?

I'm sorry, you deserve a serious answer.

I know what you're experiencing. If you're a fast shifter, it'll grind. Whiteline's transmission mount insert will help. New, quality, synthetic transmission fluid should help.

Thank you Apex, I have Motul300 waiting to go in. As cheap as the bushing is I'll probably pick it up anyway

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Np. The Motul should help keep things smooth. If you're interested in improving your shifter further, look into the Perrin rear shifter bushing and MTec shifter springs. And if you want to tighten up the drive train, get Megan Racing or STi motor mounts, Whiteline diff inserts, and Whiteline subframe inserts. All really good stuff. Search around, you'll see others who have said the same

I was considering a kart boy short throw with the bushing. Had an e36 with the z3 transmission and shifter, I miss the tight concise shifting but I don't want binding.

Are STI motor mounts a swap? I've never researched it. I'll look into the other stuff, I try not to over tool the car with upgrades beyond my driving but I value driver feel more than anything. I appreciate the input and will spend more hours researching

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Is everything stock?

The Kartboy SS could be worth it. Never had interest in getting a STS for this car, but I would definitely look into whether they rattle or not before buying one.

And yeah, the STi motor mounts are direct bolt-in.

I hear you on increasing the feel of the car; I'm all about that. I think better tires would improve that area of the car the most, if you're still on stock tires/other all-seasons.

I think it's easy to "overmod" a car so I would really think things out and research as much as possible while questioning whether a given mod is really what you want and also thinking about the cons and not just the pros. It seems like you're already doing that though so that's good.

Falken Azenis RT-615K tires, uel headers and a tune, that's it.

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Yeah I did tires, rattle in the shifter is something I never would have considered, good tip!!!

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In for solution, as I'm having a similar problem. I can go into second but it's difficult. I want snickety snick type of shifting action.

I've had no shifting problems at all with my 17 BRZ. The shifting in my old 07 Scion tC was becoming a problem, but at almost 3,000 miles not a single mis shift or grind or anything. I stalled once when I thought I was in first but actually third, but thats it. The car shifts super easy all the time, but the smoothest actually seems to be higher up in the RPM's under acceleration.

If I go from a dig full throttle and slam it into second as fast as I possibly can, I grind. Car is stock. Do it slightly slower and no grind.

I don't get grinding, it just locks me out because of excessive movement from load I'm assuming

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I have the whiteline insert with motul 300 and it's still more difficult to shift into 2nd than other gears. Used to grind when going into 2nd under heavy throttle or wot. Now it's just difficult with no grind or lockout. So I'd recommend doing the fluid swap and insert as well.

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This is very unlikely. The shifter is bolted directly to the transmission (which is why it does move around) and there is nothing it could contact externally to stop it going into gear.

Have you done anything with the clutch? ie have an aftermarket clutch and/or flywheel. Or even adjusted the clutch pedal height?

my '17 86 has been doing it from new. Can't shift quickly from 1st to 2nd. If I go all the way to 7K RPM, it's like it can't keep up. Gets stuck in the middle. It feels like it doesn't want to be forced either, so the only option is to either not rev so high and go into 2nd at around 4-5K or do it slowly and deliberately, which is weird when you're hauling ass. And the rest of the gears are perfect. Strangest thing. Very interested in this topic to see if anyone who had the same problem found a solution.

There are 0 drivetrain modifications that I know of. I bought the car with 26,000 miles and after having driven cars with various aftermarket clutches and flywheels I'm astute that this car is stock.

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I have a 17 as well and it's stock. Both of you should stop double clutching!! Lol j/k. Seriously make sure you are shifting properly and have properly broken in your new 17. Is your transmittion warmed up be for you put it under stress? Because when I am getting on the highway I always take it up to redline and it shifts smooth as silk. I will usally take high up in to redline in town to but not all the time just depend.

For the 17 honestly I think it's your shifting method or your not use to the clutch. But if it prosists after you dive it for bit take it in to the dealer and have a tech drive with you and see if he can duplicate it.

With your 13 as it's a used car I would still take it in to have it looked at as the last owner could have been double clutching it like he Shouldn't and ruined a syncro or two. It's worth having it looked at by a certified tech.
Best of luck:)

As for transmittions the only trans I like better than the 17 86 is the Honda S2K. That was my fav the meichanical feel, the short throw, ease of shifter movement and of course 9k rpm redline.:drool:

since you bought it used. There could have been a short shifter in it before, then the PO removed it to sell. In that cause the reverse lockout might be slightly in the wrong place, and you only notice it when you are in a time sensitive shift.

True and it could be driving style. That's why it would be best to have a certified tech take a look at it. O and if by chance you need a new transmittion order a 17 :thumbsup:

I just talked to my mechanic, who deals with these cars on a regular basis and as soon as I started explaining the issue, he pretty much stopped me mid-sentence to say he sees this sometimes, and it's due to the OE fluid not being filled all the way, so he recommended draining it and using Motul. I'll do that and report back.

I got locked out on 3-2 shifts on track for almost 5 years on this car until I adjusted the reverse lockout plate to the right. It seems that aggressive shifting on track caused me to go a little too far to the left and I couldn't make the shift into second. Moving the plate a bit to the right prevents this over travel.

First off, just before you shift ...... let off the gas ..... then push in on the clutch ...... then shift ....... then let out the clutch ...... then give it more gas ....... :popcorn:

Did I miss something ... ?? Is it ma med and nap time ??....... yep, sure is ..... how did you know ....??

:confused0068:

ZZZZZZZZ


humfrz

shift slower
the mesh point for the synchros is like 4000 RPM if your trans with the clutch pressed in is spinning freely at a 7000 RPM simulation on the main shaft with wont mesh and feels locked out.
Do this too much and you will end up with a bent shift fork and or chewed up synchros.
Fast shifting does not help you always win a race or accelerate faster especially if you are missing shifts.
#savethemanuals

The speed of the shift is not the issue. I can shift slowly and still be locked out. I'm not trying to shift between hundredths of a second. But I am to keep momentum without disrupting the cars balance during fast acceleration

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So in other words short shit first to second.

Eh. I'd look at fluid, double check the reverse lockout plate position (and if you're not sure the shifter has never been removed, make sure it's in the right way... it can be installed backwards but... has issues...) And maybe double check technique, just for good measure.

I can (and occasionally do on course, if there's not a turn with the shift) shift without lifting all the way up to the revlimit without problems... which will kick the tail way out if I'm not going straight, so it doesn't happen much. If memory serves, I've always been able to do this. But, if it matters, I now have: Motul fluid, both shifter/transmission bushings (Whiteline), STi motor mounts (they're a direct swap... look identical, really)...

If I get the timing slightly wrong, it's a lot less happy about it, but that's a rare thing.

I've read about the same thing @R2 is talking about. Saved it via screenshot on my phone will browsing the FB groups. Dude said it made a night and day difference.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SG6j5iqnVNSojimT2

You guys might be onto something. Having adjusted a few of these, I can testify that alignment is key.

Fortunately, it can be verified easily in the driveway. Put it into second gear and lift the lockout ring. Feel for where the shifter is in the middle of the second gear gate. Then with the lockout dropped, compare the leftmost position of the shifter to where it sits unobstructed.

Lots of words but I'm happy to clarify if I'm not explaining clearly. Here's the way the service manual explains it. Their method is more idiot proof.


Oh, and edit for truth: I'm glad I bit my tongue last night because I wanted to chastise OP for shifting F&F-style. @celek was much more diplomatic than I would've been.

If I am shifting at high rpms (6k plus) then 2nd n 5th are always grinders if I'm not careful. I have Whiteline transmission bushing, Perrin shift bushing and MTEC shift springs. I need to do fluid. Maybe then it will be better. Much different if I have been driving for over a half hour. Anything less and there isn't enough heat there or whatever for smooth, aggressive shifts.

Confirmed: moving this bracket to the right a hair fixed it!!!!! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9639ff8343.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...aad0a71048.jpg

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well that's interesting! thanks! So it shifts smoothly from 1st to 2nd at WOT now?

Glad it worked for ya.

If you remove the plate entirely, does the actual shifter come out? Thinking about re-greasing mine

1st to second, even non WOT shifts feel more "straight" from first to second. WOT shifting has 0 notch now. Also, I didn't remove the bracket to see if the shifter came out

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Did you move the bracket closer to the shifter, so the gap measures 1mm as per the repair manual? I've had a similar problem for a long time, that the gate seems blocked if I shift 1-2 @ >4k rpm or under heavy acceleration.

Honestly I didn't measure. I half tightened until I stopped feeling to gate when moving from 1st to second

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this is with car off, and clutch in?

In this photo my foot was off of the clutch pedal in neutral

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