Eh. I'd look at fluid, double check the reverse lockout plate position (and if you're not sure the shifter has never been removed, make sure it's in the right way... it can be installed backwards but... has issues...) And maybe double check technique, just for good measure.

I can (and occasionally do on course, if there's not a turn with the shift) shift without lifting all the way up to the revlimit without problems... which will kick the tail way out if I'm not going straight, so it doesn't happen much. If memory serves, I've always been able to do this. But, if it matters, I now have: Motul fluid, both shifter/transmission bushings (Whiteline), STi motor mounts (they're a direct swap... look identical, really)...

If I get the timing slightly wrong, it's a lot less happy about it, but that's a rare thing.

I've read about the same thing @R2 is talking about. Saved it via screenshot on my phone will browsing the FB groups. Dude said it made a night and day difference.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SG6j5iqnVNSojimT2

You guys might be onto something. Having adjusted a few of these, I can testify that alignment is key.

Fortunately, it can be verified easily in the driveway. Put it into second gear and lift the lockout ring. Feel for where the shifter is in the middle of the second gear gate. Then with the lockout dropped, compare the leftmost position of the shifter to where it sits unobstructed.

Lots of words but I'm happy to clarify if I'm not explaining clearly. Here's the way the service manual explains it. Their method is more idiot proof.


Oh, and edit for truth: I'm glad I bit my tongue last night because I wanted to chastise OP for shifting F&F-style. @celek was much more diplomatic than I would've been.

If I am shifting at high rpms (6k plus) then 2nd n 5th are always grinders if I'm not careful. I have Whiteline transmission bushing, Perrin shift bushing and MTEC shift springs. I need to do fluid. Maybe then it will be better. Much different if I have been driving for over a half hour. Anything less and there isn't enough heat there or whatever for smooth, aggressive shifts.

Confirmed: moving this bracket to the right a hair fixed it!!!!! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9639ff8343.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...aad0a71048.jpg

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well that's interesting! thanks! So it shifts smoothly from 1st to 2nd at WOT now?

Glad it worked for ya.

If you remove the plate entirely, does the actual shifter come out? Thinking about re-greasing mine

1st to second, even non WOT shifts feel more "straight" from first to second. WOT shifting has 0 notch now. Also, I didn't remove the bracket to see if the shifter came out

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Did you move the bracket closer to the shifter, so the gap measures 1mm as per the repair manual? I've had a similar problem for a long time, that the gate seems blocked if I shift 1-2 @ >4k rpm or under heavy acceleration.

Honestly I didn't measure. I half tightened until I stopped feeling to gate when moving from 1st to second

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this is with car off, and clutch in?

In this photo my foot was off of the clutch pedal in neutral

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Nice, glad that worked for you too.

I have a 2017 BRZ PP and I get the 2nd gear grind at low rpms when the car is cold. I get it less when the car is warm but it doesn't go completely away.