Originally Posted by Kronos (Post 2969223)

https://youtu.be/HPh90yNX-mY

You are welcome ;)

Originally Posted by fatoni (Post 2969238)

Steer clear of Adam's

Originally Posted by churchx (Post 2969236)

Maybe try also lowering wheel size to R16, as there are even narrower tires available for those, and play a bit with alignment, if that's what you adjust car for, especially if on NA power.
Imho it shouldn't matter much which specific tire model/brand. Rather lot of seat time .. which would mean lot of tires burned .. due what "best" choice would be cheapest tires of whatever type. Local pro drifters for training often using multiple sets of used tires from some tire shop, just changing out when yet again another one pops after few laps around.

Originally Posted by churchx (Post 2969256)

I've seen cases of tire popped in less then 10 minutes. I have seen case of wheel studs broken in 2nd minute. If drifting is your thing, it's always worth to carry set or two of extra wheels with premounted tires and good jack to speedup remounting. Tires are wearable, of very short life at that for this specific usage type. It's not so much if tire will wear down or blow up, but when. Also worth using cheap wheels that you don't care much. Imho you don't want to drive half a track with blown tire to place where you'll put new wheel/rubber with some uber expensive bling forged wheels.
Unless you are really into drifting that much, imho it's simpler/much cheaper to get into HPDE with occasional drift out of some curvers for fun. With that your tires should last few track days (depending on frequency of which it may mean even half a season or season for you), not minutes/hour. Another way to save on tires for drifting is not to adjust car, but to adjust environment :), ice/snow track drifts also let save on wearables a lot.

Originally Posted by QTR FMS (Post 2969261)

im good at drifting

Originally Posted by QTR FMS (Post 2969240)

lol i dont know how to check grange schedule most of the times the events are private or canceled.

and willow spring feels boring on low hp car.

is there any other tracks that i dont know about? i know they did event at San Diego last month.

Originally Posted by mav1178 (Post 2969287)

If you're actually at the level where you can claim you are good at drifting, you'll soon realize that you need to have decent grip front/rear to enhance your car control capabilities, which defeats the point of this thread.

So how good are you?

Originally Posted by Slammillionaire (Post 2969318)

Make sure you get a $400 drift alternator

Originally Posted by LudwigMiles (Post 2969294)

Drifting is a great way to drive slow.

Originally Posted by x808drifter (Post 2969682)

The fact that he says hes "good" and then called it "monjing" makes me question that statement a little.

Not knowing that he'd have to go to a 45 series with a 195 to keep the gearing same-ish also makes me wonder.

"More sliding than drifting"
LOLWUT???




Get some cheap all seasons.
Over-inflate them.

Enjoy.

I really hope your turning TC off...

Originally Posted by fatoni (Post 2969647)

whats boring is not having enough runoff and watching people drive while your car is being towed away. if you want small, streets is about as small a real track i know of. if you want fun, buttonwillow and especially chuckwalla get the job done imo.

Originally Posted by churchx (Post 2969279)

QTR_FMS: imho that's the beauty of dual calipers - you don't have to touch/connect to stock brakes/their lines to add hydro brake, even stock parking brake can be left as is, so by that imho nothing will be changed daily driving reliability/capability wise. Just mount another set of stock calipers on rear wheels with something like this.

Originally Posted by QTR FMS (Post 2969778)

i have r-compound tire in front and pbm angle kit so in term of front grip i have no issues with it,and the rear tires barely make any smoke the car setup is perfect right now.

Originally Posted by QTR FMS (Post 2969784)

yes my rear tire have 60-70 psi always and still not enough for me taste of driving.

Originally Posted by TylerLieberman (Post 2970102)

1: Manji, not monji

2: Nankang, nexen, federal, achilles, etc all have tires that are sufficient. If you're having problems spinning the tires, up tire pressure, alter suspension/alignment, be more aggressive, etc.

3: There's zero reason to run R comps up front on this car. If anything, that's having more of a negative impact than a positive one.

4: Don't understand what's being said between sliding vs drifting. Your statements don't really make any sense.

5: You have PBM knuckles with R comps up front and 60psi stock sized tires in the rear on stock power. If you can't see the issue with this setup, then there are bigger issues to address.

6: You seem to not understand the concept between grip and traction. The fact you think that you don't really need any rear end grip because you're not running tandem is misguided.

7: I don't know what it means for an ebrake to "misfire". Please explain. Furthermore, if you're running 60psi in stock like rear tires, there's zero reason to run a hydraulic handbrake. Don't believe everything TJ Hunt tells you.

8: Having ABS fuse pulled and doing the pedal dance is redundant. If you pull the fuse, everything, including ABS is deactivated. If you do that and are doing the pedal dance afterwards, you're just making it look like you have tourettes in the car doing motions that are literally doing nothing.

9: Post videos of you driving, including in car. Also include suspension/alignment and wheel/tire setup. I can probably help direct your attention on what's causing issues.

10: Based on what I'm reading, a lot of these issues just sound like setup and driver error.

EDIT: I looked at your first post and saw that you're running UEL headers and E85. There's zero issue as to why you should be having so much of an issue. I had no problems with 4th gear initiations on stock power. When I added EL headers (I stayed on 91 octane) it became even easier. Something isn't adding up.

Originally Posted by mav1178 (Post 2970034)

That's your problem right there.

Sorry, you're not good at drifting if you need R-comps in the front.

Originally Posted by QTR FMS (Post 2970139)

i didnt jump to r-comp immediately and i had some understear issues on hard comp tire and r-comp fix the understear so now its eaiser to power over into a turn.

Originally Posted by TylerLieberman (Post 2970102)

1: Manji, not monji

english is my second language so if you are gonna look for mistakes you will find alot so i dont know what to tell if you look at my spell and grammar and judge on my driving skill based on spelling.

2: Nankang, nexen, federal, achilles, etc all have tires that are sufficient. If you're having problems spinning the tires, up tire pressure, alter suspension/alignment, be more aggressive, etc.

they are sufficient true i agree with you 100% and i have no problem with this setup but the car does not have lots of torque and im trying to compensate for lack of torque with less grip tire my goal is just to have fun nothing else.

3: There's zero reason to run R comps up front on this car. If anything, that's having more of a negative impact than a positive one.

as i said it made it easier to slide and understeer more turn in grip,less aggressive entree may not be ideal but it works with my style.
and its federal r-sr nothing expensive.

4: Don't understand what's being said between sliding vs drifting. Your statements don't really make any sense.

i consider drifting when the car slide using throttle input not steering, with na frs you need to add more angle every time the engine want to bog down.
my definition of drifting is different than yours.
just because someone is kicking the rear end from a turn to the next it doesnt mean its drifting to me.

5: You have PBM knuckles with R comps up front and 60psi stock sized tires in the rear on stock power. If you can't see the issue with this setup, then there are bigger issues to address.
i know the issue and im trying to compensate for this setup and make it more interesting, so far i have no issue with this setup it works perfectly.

6: You seem to not understand the concept between grip and traction. The fact you think that you don't really need any rear end grip because you're not running tandem is misguided.

understand it in term of physic i dont really but concept i do know the difference im not saying i dont need grip because i dont need it unless im tandeming im just saying i dont want it i have more fun drifting on the cords of the tire than the rubber,and when its raining its just like how i want to be drifting on the track, more grip mean more speed to my knowledge and i want to drift at slower speed with more angle, i cant spray water at the track.

7: I don't know what it means for an ebrake to "misfire". Please explain. Furthermore, if you're running 60psi in stock like rear tires, there's zero reason to run a hydraulic handbrake. Don't believe everything TJ Hunt tells you.

i was stating the only issues i had my engine misfired 3 times at the track but found the issue and fixed it sorry if i wasnt clear.

lmao i usually fun of what tj does , and the only reason i mentioned him is because someone said not to buy expensive wheels when i already use stock wheels for drifting and his expensive wheel didnt handle slight drop when stock wheel does with no problem and i never said i want to install hydro on my daily the stock ebrake is more than sufficient i have been to atleast 15 drift event and i have no issue with it at all, someone else recommended it but i said im not gonna install it again and again.

8: Having ABS fuse pulled and doing the pedal dance is redundant. If you pull the fuse, everything, including ABS is deactivated. If you do that and are doing the pedal dance afterwards, you're just making it look like you have tourettes in the car doing motions that are literally doing nothing.

i wasnt sure because on the street i had no loss of traction at all i wasnt sure if the ecu still cuts power or if the streets of california is that grippy,

i have asked for an answer on this forum before no one answered my question so i still do the pedal dance because it doesnt take 5 second and just incase something still works using the second abs fuse.

9: Post videos of you driving, including in car. Also include suspension/alignment and wheel/tire setup. I can probably help direct your attention on what's causing issues.

sure, im gonna post it privatly to any one who want to see it but i wont upload it to youtube or any other server until i get better quality video rather than snapchat videos.

10: Based on what I'm reading, a lot of these issues just sound like setup and driver error.
maybe i have tried different damper setting and found one that is great for my driving skills and it made my drifting smoother while still being aggressive.
0 toe front cant remove negetive camber (-4.5) because of pbm lower control arm. caster at 6 (maybe more depends on how accurate the alignment machine i heard the are not)anything more have to remove the front bumper

EDIT: I looked at your first post and saw that you're running UEL headers and E85. There's zero issue as to why you should be having so much of an issue. I had no problems with 4th gear initiations on stock power. When I added EL headers (I stayed on 91 octane) it became even easier. Something isn't adding up.

Originally Posted by TylerLieberman (Post 2970154)

I'm just gonna sit here and wait for video footage and info on setup...

Originally Posted by QTR FMS (Post 2970169)

i have no issue drifting but i want more with less power thats the whole point of this topic ,and if you initiate at 4th gear what is your initiate speed ?can you iniate at 40 miles in 4 ? no thats because it 200hp not enough low end torque.

Originally Posted by QTR FMS (Post 2970169)

i just want to be able to upshift to 3 in this small track or be able to left foot brake for longer than 4 second before it wants to bog down.

Originally Posted by QTR FMS (Post 2970172)

im going to class right now pm me your email to send you the videos

Originally Posted by churchx (Post 2970176)

For less understeer i'd probably simply choose more camber front. Even though i hadn't targeted drifting, rather for HPDE/track, more neg. camber front (by 0.5deg) then rear (opposite to stock camber) made grip bias much more to my liking with way less understeer even on square tire setup of same tires on both ends.
IIRC for drift alignment same recipe can be used, except saw mentions of even more front negative camber for drifters.