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Ideal parts for this build?
2013 AT Brz,
Basically trying to build the car to be lighter and faster without upsetting driving balance/dynamics, dd friendly, and no complex maintenance. Car is used for dd In city traffic, highway only once a month and highway speed limit is only 100kph so most of the performance would be around 0-60s. Track maybe 2x a year but nothing competitive. What I plan by order: no tune 1. Lighter tire and wheel combo but retaining stock size 2. FD ratio (4.56 or 4.67?) I don't want to mess with the gear display or other parts 3. Not so sure on this one- CF driveshaft (any recommended ones for an AT?) Anyone aiming/running for similar? |
Depending on budget i'd think of close-ratio gears (expensive) in addition to FD.
Instead of CF driveshaft lighter flywheel (+velox billet clutchfork & pivot point), though hmm, if you have very high budget, then also front accessory pulleys and your CF axle (costly with little return per back). "Free" weight removal by removing tire repair stuff & tools from trunk / sound tube deletion / keeping partially filled window washer fluid tank / floormats for seats where noone will sit / cupholder plastic bit. If you drive daily, maybe lighter battery. Lighter exhaust. Velox rear LCAs (not much to gain, but they are lightest from aftermarket and you get rear camber adjustment). Even while they may add a bit weight, if they aren't installed, i'd add car underside plastic panels to reduce drag. Rest of mods compromise something for DD/comfort. Like striping interior/AC removal/aftermarket bucket seats. OFT/Ecutek tune. But in general i'd just get rear LCAs (cheapest - SPC), front camber bolts, get alignment more to my wish (more camber in front then in rear, for less understeer) and keep driving just changing tires/other wearables/performing maintenance timely. |
I have the automatic and went with 4.88 gears to compensate for the auto gear spacing. Love it.
I also tried a CF drive shaft but went back to stock because of vibrations with it. |
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