Originally Posted by BigHugeFatGuy (Post 2958965)

FRS noob looking at a few mods, but my main concern is reliability.
Porsche has their IMS bearing issue, where the factory made a crappy part that tends to grenade without warning. The aftermarket solved the issue with a bearing that can go 100k+ miles, for not a lot of cash. Anything like that here?
I'm poking at the NED oil cooler, but looks like it's mainly needed for FI. I've ordered TRD springs, and I'm going to have the dealership eventually put in the rest of the TRD stuff (I actually like my dealer service dept, and want to show there's demand for FRS/BRZ/86 parts), but after that, no plans. It's a weekend/fun road car. 2,000 miles on it.
Anything I should upgrade/replace/add now for reliability? Keep "crickets" away, prevent oil leaks, etc.

Originally Posted by Sapphireho (Post 2959079)

My car is heavily modded, all done with top grade proven aftermarket products by a shop that only does subarus for years. The car is just as reliable as stock and drives just as easy.

Here is my mod list:

Interior
Shrader Performance Rear Seat Delete kit
Subaru Trunk Lid Trim Panel Liner
TRD Sport Guages

Exterior
Perrin Plate Relocate kit
Rebadged Toyota GT86
TRD Fog Lights


Suspension
TRD lowering springs
TRD sway bars
Yoshihara D5C 18x8 +40 rims w/Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires

Engine & Drivetrain
Jackson Racing Supercharger
Jackson Racing Oil Cooler
Jackson Racing Aluminum Neck Filler/Radiator Cap
DW 700CC injectors
DW 300c Fuel Pump
Delicious Tuning Flex Fuel MK1+ Kit
Custom Tune by William Knose of Delicious Tuning
TRD exhaust
ACT Xtreme Clutch Kit with Flywheel
TRD Japan short shifter
DSS Carbon Fiber Driveshaft

Brakes
DBA 4000 drilled and slotted rotors
DS2500 Ferodo brake pads
Perrin master cylinder brace
Mann Engineering Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Fluids
Torco SR-5R 5w30 Engine oil
Torco SGO 75w90 Transmission and Differential Gear Oil
Torco RT700 Brake Fluid

Edit: this list doesn't include all the bushings and suspension stuff. I need to update my mod list.

Originally Posted by Ernest72 (Post 2959084)

Your supercharged engine will not last as long as a stock one under the same conditions. You gotta pay to play.

Reliable is a subjective.

Originally Posted by BigHugeFatGuy (Post 2958965)

FRS noob looking at a few mods, but my main concern is reliability.
Porsche has their IMS bearing issue, where the factory made a crappy part that tends to grenade without warning. The aftermarket solved the issue with a bearing that can go 100k+ miles, for not a lot of cash. Anything like that here?
I'm poking at the NED oil cooler, but looks like it's mainly needed for FI. I've ordered TRD springs, and I'm going to have the dealership eventually put in the rest of the TRD stuff (I actually like my dealer service dept, and want to show there's demand for FRS/BRZ/86 parts), but after that, no plans. It's a weekend/fun road car. 2,000 miles on it.
Anything I should upgrade/replace/add now for reliability? Keep "crickets" away, prevent oil leaks, etc.

Originally Posted by Sapphireho (Post 2959079)

My car is heavily modded, The car is just as reliable as stock and drives just as easy.

Here is my mod list:...................

* Rebadged Toyota GT86

...........

Originally Posted by BigHugeFatGuy (Post 2958971)

Definitely. It gets ethanol-free 93 only

Originally Posted by funwheeldrive (Post 2959093)

Take advantage of the recent TSB that came out addressing the faulty throw out bearings in these cars. My clutch has the issue, but I am out of warranty now so when my TOB grenades prematurely I will need to spend hundreds of dollars replacing it.

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon (Post 2959184)

Water has to be above boiling temp in order to evaporate? Why is my oil cooler thermostat fully open at 180*F?

Guess it's time to fire off a strongly worded letter to Mocal.

Originally Posted by funwheeldrive (Post 2959093)

Take advantage of the recent TSB that came out addressing the faulty throw out bearings in these cars. My clutch has the issue, but I am out of warranty now so when my TOB grenades prematurely I will need to spend hundreds of dollars replacing it.

Originally Posted by humfrz (Post 2959197)

Question ...... will a dealer replace a TOB under warranty, if it ain't broke ...... :iono: ........ but I doubt it .....??

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon (Post 2959184)

Water has to be above boiling temp in order to evaporate? Why is my oil cooler thermostat fully open at 180*F?

Guess it's time to fire off a strongly worded letter to Mocal.

Originally Posted by humfrz (Post 2959197)

Question ...... will a dealer replace a TOB under warranty, if it ain't broke ...... :iono: ........ but I doubt it .....??


humfrz

Originally Posted by humfrz (Post 2959197)

Question ...... will a dealer replace a TOB under warranty, if it ain't broke ...... :iono: ........ but I doubt it .....??


humfrz

Originally Posted by guybo (Post 2959262)

But at stock, the oil temp still gets up to 215-230 normal working temp doesn't it? Just because the thermostat opens at 180 doesn't mean that the oil temp stays 180. The car is designed to let the oil temp get well above boiling for this very reason I mentioned ;-)

Originally Posted by guybo (Post 2959124)

Why ethanol free? Ethanol is an excellent fuel and keeps the engine cleaner. It increases octane rating and is an excellent solvent to keep the fuel system and injectors clean. The thinking that ethanol is somehow inferior is stone age thinking going back to when cars weren't designed for it and the fuel system would be damaged by it. The 86 is designed to run on E15 reliably.

As for a reliability mods-

Unless you are going FI, don't install an oil cooler. The oil has to regularly run well over 212F to burn off water in the crankcase from normal condensation. An engine that does not run hot enough is going to have reliability issues.

Install an oil catch can. It's good for the long term health of the engine by preventing deposits from building up on the valves.

Originally Posted by guybo (Post 2959262)

But at stock, the oil temp still gets up to 215-230 normal working temp doesn't it? Just because the thermostat opens at 180 doesn't mean that the oil temp stays 180. The car is designed to let the oil temp get well above boiling for this very reason I mentioned ;-)

Originally Posted by Breadstickz (Post 2959496)

sorry to kind of hijack the thread a bit but does anyone know if the TOB issue is still on the 2017s?

Originally Posted by Tcoat (Post 2959571)

The TSB States 13 to 16s but it was issued in April 17 so yours could be covered if it was an early 17 built in late 16. Usually they give a VIN range but this one just says years.


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117440

Originally Posted by why? (Post 2959406)

E10. Many manufacturers, including Toyota, Subaru, and all the Japanese ones pointedly repeatedly state never to put more than e10 in their vehicles. Heck it is even in the owners manual.

Also e10 gets worse gas mileage, sometimes by quite a bit.

But it really isn't a big deal as long as it is just e10.

Originally Posted by mrg666 (Post 2959678)

My crickets love E10. Since I don't like crickets I use ethanol free. Ethanol free doesn't make much difference for me in gas mileage. But I am comparing 91 octane ethanol free with 93 octane ethanol gas. I will fill with 93 octane again next time to see how the crickets are doing and check the gas mileage. There is also air temperature. The car hates hot and humid air; power and mileage suffer miserably with such weather. I gotta find a nice week to test 93 ethanol gas.

Originally Posted by guybo (Post 2959124)

Why ethanol free? Ethanol is an excellent fuel and keeps the engine cleaner. It increases octane rating and is an excellent solvent to keep the fuel system and injectors clean. The thinking that ethanol is somehow inferior is stone age thinking going back to when cars weren't designed for it and the fuel system would be damaged by it. The 86 is designed to run on E15 reliably.

As for a reliability mods-

Unless you are going FI, don't install an oil cooler. The oil has to regularly run well over 212F to burn off water in the crankcase from normal condensation. An engine that does not run hot enough is going to have reliability issues.

Install an oil catch can. It's good for the long term health of the engine by preventing deposits from building up on the valves.

Originally Posted by guybo (Post 2959752)

............
As for the wet t-shirt contest... 1) no pics, didn't happen 2) don't confuse water boiling off with evaporation. 2 totally different things.

Originally Posted by guybo (Post 2959752)

True it gets less gas mileage... and so what? Doesn't mean it's bad for the engine. E10 (sorry my bad, not E15) does have higher octane.


The fact is, by design this car's oil does run above boiling temp. It's for getting rid of water in the oil as much as anything. It's by design. On a tracked car, if you modify for FI or whatever, you may need an oil cooler. But for a regular DD it's worse for the engine to have one and run the oil too cold. If you do track it and you're NA, install a bypass on the oil cooler and only use it when needed. There's a reason Toyobaru designed this car to run as hot as it does and it's not a mistake.

As for the wet t-shirt contest... 1) no pics, didn't happen 2) don't confuse water boiling off with evaporation. 2 totally different things.

Originally Posted by guybo (Post 2959752)

My opinion is, by design this car's oil does run above boiling temp.

Originally Posted by humfrz (Post 2959858)

Now, about all this water that needs to be boiled out of the crankcase .......:popcorn:

Originally Posted by alan.chalkley (Post 2959732)

Ethanol blend in australia is often contaminated with paint thinners.
We recently had our sydney western freeway blocked by broken down cars that were using E10.
So when driving here we should use premium 98

Originally Posted by alan.chalkley (Post 2959732)

Ethanol blend in australia is often contaminated with paint thinners.
We recently had our sydney western freeway blocked by broken down cars that were using E10.
So when driving here we should use premium 98

Originally Posted by 504 (Post 2959886)

That's a ridiculous claim, sorry.

My friends brand new civic was destroyed filling up at a BP servo and he uses nothing but 98 (part of that train of destroyed cars on the freeway). Those cars lined up with hydrolocked engines were due to water seepage into the servo fuel tank. I have a picture of a water bottle showing the contents of the supposed fuel showing all the grit and water.

Assumptions are dangerous and contribute alot of misinformation

I've run nothing but e70+ for the past 3 years