2013 FRS Immobilizer Issue - bunch of questions
 

Issue: Can't get the car to start.

I think it is the immobilizer but I don't know how to verify it.

Pertinent info:
I bought a partially assembled 2013 FRS race car and have been peeping it as a NASA TT4 car. The vehicle was not in running condition when I bought it.

I went to start the car up and can't even get the engine to crank with the key. I can force a crank when I put a hot wire to the starter solenoid, but the car does not fire. Fuel pump turns on and stays on when the key is in the on position. The immobilizer light keeps flashing on the dash.

Is that what happens when you try and start the car and the immobilizer is still active? What else can I do to test? When I turn the key to start I hear a click under the dash and can feel it with my hand coming form one of the ECU boxes. The car does the same weather the clutch is depressed or not. (Clutch safety switch seems to be working.)

What parts are needed for a new immobilizer setup? Gauge cluster, ecu, immobilizer ecu, and steering column mechanism, and key.

(Dealer said the gauge cluster is not part of the immobilizer setup, is that correct?)

The ECU and immobilizer ecu are located under the dash to the left of the steering column, correct?

I'm looking at buying this off of ebay, does it have everything I need:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2016-SCION-FRS-FR-S-OEM-KEY-IMMOBILIZER-ECU-PCM-IGNITION-GUAGE-ASSEMBLY-/272760369622?hash=item3f81c8f1d6:g:5yIAAOSwhilZZu1 8&vxp=mtr

A car won't start because the dash is not the one programmed to the immobilizer so in that sense, yes the dash is affected by the immobilizer system.


Can't a dealer program all immobilizer components currently in the car instead of you needing to buy a whole new set of components?

Have a look for the key symbol on dash.


If it red it means security is still active


Needs to be green for car to start.


It could be key is faulty or not coded to car.


Is the CEL light on dash active ?




Turn ignition on this should power up ECU. Then read error codes from ECU you will usually get error codes relating to security system not synced or ecu not talking to immobiliser.




AFAIK dash is part of security set in these cars, the dealer should be able to code it in. security set is key/imobilisier module, dash and ecu


they may have replaced ecu, its the easiest to re-code see here, you will get error codes relating to ECU to talking to imobiliser.


download the manual here
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12135


around page 4980 are a bunch of replacement proceedures for components in security system, some require dealer software to re-code/sync.


your problem may not be related to security system, might be as simple as blown fuse


wiring diagram
http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rc...wTIabWl0Jc6WWw

The car and lock sign stay on even after the key is turned to the on position.

No green key is ever shown. When I watched videos of 2013 FRS startups I never saw a green key illuminate. (Manual transmission.)

As best I can tell the key doesn't have a chip. It has a screwdriver handel with a cut key. (Not a screwdriver jammed into the ignition.)

The rear brakes are currently mission and no fluid in the system. Is their a lockout that would prevent the car from starting this way?

The check engine light is on, but no codes are found when using Torque.

I did go through all the fuses and didn't see a blown one. I would have thought if it was a problem with cranking, I would have been able to get the car running when I forced the starter to turn over.

Imobiliser kills ignition

Your model might be different to ours
Flashing lock symol on dash, when key ir fob in car and you try to start key symbol will go green if ok, red if incorrect or no code, yellow if fob battery weak or signal low

With key models transponder chip is in plastic key head

If it got just a metal key your snookered, you will need dealer to code in new complete key, or find someone who knows how to bypass imobiliser

My FRS does not have the wireless key fob, so that is why the green key isn't coming on.

You say the immobilizer kills the ignition? Ignition to me means spark. Are you sure that is all it does? My motor will not even turn over with the key.

I am currently having the previous owner see if he can find the factory key. I hope he does but my hopes aren't high.

Can the Ecutek software disable the immobilizer?

Its possible they have worked that out.


it not available in the retail kit tables


you would need to talk to ecutek

Picture of the key? Regular FRS keys have an immobilizer chip in them.

I don't believe there is any ignition lock for brake fluid.

Need to check the CEL with a legitimate OBD scanner, Torque can only read engine ECU, the code could be ABS, or other of the car system.


There are ignition fuses in the engine bay (If I'm not mistaken, I once helped a local find a blown IGN fuse and it was in the engine bay box, not inside the cabin), just mentioning it because some of them are not super obvious to check.

So after a bunch of work, I have the following:

CEL code for the engine of:
B1572

CEL code for the body of:
B1401
B1402
B1407

BRZ dash
BRZ control euc
Vehicle ECU with a different vin.
Chipped key for this specific vehicle.

Any ideas on what next? I can't figure anything out about that one engine CEL.

B1572 is imobilser not talking to ecu, the secutity may need resync

Try the proceedure here
No need to worry about vin it wont stop car from starting if a vslid rom is in ecu
As long as it not a 2017 rom

Skip the replace ecu part, just do the loop obd pins for 30 plus minutes, must be more than 30 mins to eork

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102810

See also here

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100168

The trick didn't work. I tried it for 45min twice. The second time clicking the start key twice as one of the directions say.

These main body codes have something to do with the immobilizer, however the manual posted doesn't go into repair steps for them.
B1401
B1402
B1407

Any other ideas? The really isn't something I want to take to a dealership as it will cost a fortune.

What part does combination meter assembly reference too? The gauge cluster or something else?