That answer is also really old. Ask them now to see what they run.

Let me know how you like that setup! I was very close to going with the NT05's but I got Toyo Proxes T1 Sports instead. Regretted. It going full 200tw since I do so much with the car. Was planning on getting Direzza Z2 Starspecs (235/40/17) asap but I loved my old NT01's so the NT05's are also an option!

Curious, do you run different pressures depending on the width?

I wouldn't argue on that point. I think my tire choice was poor :)

Does anyone have any experience on switching to a lighter 16 wheel and how that can affect performance handling. The lure of cheaper tires is strong.

Not really, the RE71r works well at lower temperatures and comes up to temp relatively quickly. I'm in Texas so it's always hot here. I generally run around 26psi cold and try to keep the hot pressures in the low 30's, with the rears 1-2psi lower than the fronts.

I run an STX setup with Ohlins coilovers and around -3 degrees of camber in the fronts and about -2 in the rear. Tire wear and temperatures are pretty even.

I've run 16-17-18 wheels on the same car (not an 86), differing widths and compounds so no direct comparisons but the smaller wheels with more tire sidewall take longer to respond to steering inputs while going up two inches makes turn in feel almost instant in comparison.

There's tradeoffs, the smaller wheels ride a bit cushier and there's the weight, but imo the weight difference isn't tangible, cheap tires/wheels seems like a more logical reason than most have for spending several hundred/thousand bucks on wheels/tires.

I do it for weight, not price. The selection of 16" tires isn't awful, but it's nothing compared to 17". I'm running a 12.5 pound 16x7, and my 225 tire weight only increased by a pound over OEM. I also got a great deal on them as a (barely) used package; I'd have to spend 3-4x as much to buy a brand new set of wheels as light as these.


I also happen to think the extra sidewall is far better matched to the OEM suspension (or like mine with just a set of thicker swaybars) than a lower profile tire. The car does become a bit looser feeling, but it also makes the whole experience a little more dynamic, which I think matches the car's intended character better. Don't confuse looseness with ultimate grip. And while I have more body roll, the taller sidewall copes with the camber change better than a lower profile tire would. Once you start changing spring/shock rates/ride height, then it's a whole different thing.

Damn. Are 255 non-staggered the new standard now?! :sigh:

Wow, this thread got way too technical for OP's sake. He never even mentioned autox or tracking.

With any wheel/tire setup, lighter is better holding everything else constant. On a daily basis you will notice a decrease in unsprung rotational mass more than an increase in the contact patch. But, if you can decrease the weight while also increasing contact, do it. Tire width will make more of a difference than wheel width, as different sizes will affect the amount of contact and sidewall stiffness.

People who go 18" (or god forbid 19") are almost always doing it for show. There's no real performance benefit with bigger wheels as far as I know.

Also tire compound will make more of a difference then tire width.
P.S.
Speaking of looks .. but imho this is one of few cars where smaller diameter wheels like 16" actually fits well/looks good. Wasn't one of trd builds having even 15" wheels? :)

I totally agree. The car needs the extra sidewall, visually, to better fill out the fender opening....at least, at stock ride height. I also like the chunky look on a slightly lowered car, to a point.