250 ~ 300 hp - Cost, Requirements, Effects
 

Hi all, I'm new to tuning and the aftermarket in general. With my new GT86, I am planning to do some tuning somewhere down the line to get a little extra power.

I love the car the way it is but would like it to be able to compete with faster cars with the least risk possible and without affecting the performance of the car in any other way (agility, quickness, braking [weight]).

My question is:

What needs to be done to get my car to about 250 ~ 300 hp?

My GT86 is an AT, will I need to modify it?
Are stock tires good enough? Brakes?

What parts would need to be replaced?

Finally, how much would this upgrade cost (ball-park figure, doesnt need to be exact)?

What do you mean "compete"? Like autocrossing, drag racing, light to light, freeway trolling etc.. Depends on you, the main things i would recommend is a supercharger or turbocharger, which installed will run you 6-8 thousand USD and only add 10 pounds or so of weight, on stock internals you can most likely run 300 wHP with no problems, minus loss of your factory warranty. And then yes you will want to get some performance tires. Which cost 100-300 USD per tire depending on which tire you get. Suspension is up to you, i personally dont see a need.. Maybe lowering springs, which would cost 600-900 USD installed. Those 3 alone and your car would be a beast.

Its your choice, you can do whatever you want to your car.

On a side note there are people working on tunes, its possible that they might be able to pull another 30 hp out of the car with a intake.. So intake + tune = 230 hp. Would cost about 1000 dollars

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Intake is pulling really neutral numbers, down low they suck up high they gain a bit. Intake would really only get like 2-5whp. Exhaust with cat delete might get you another 20 realistically on this car. Tune them all and you could hit 200 whp or a tad higher.

If you want to go higher with the massive compression this car has you would need to go very low boost on a turbo or MAYBE a supercharger (doubt that it would get you to 300) and think about at least swapping pistons out. You should at least boost up the tires of the car which will cost around 200 USD a corner.

This all being said dropping 10-15k on the car and you would be around 250-300whp. Keep in mind the HKS supercharger is pushing 10,000 USD and would be doubtful to get your car to 250 whp. If you are interested there are two turbo kits that I know of that will be hopefully coming out soon. One is PTunning the other is Accelerated Performance.

this sucks, after talking to several people and reading many posts, I thought only getting new pipes would gain 2-5 hp, and new pipes plus intake (depending on brand) with no tune could still get you 10-15 hp. Am I way off on this?

I don't mind waiting a year or more before I make any changes so I have time to see what kits come out. But I'd like to plan ahead if I'm going to put another $8k under the hood.

By compete, I mostly mean light to light and freeway trolling. Traffic laws don't get enforced much where I live. :) That being said, I won't be lowering the car at all because there are too many potholes and bumps on the roads here.

I don't want my friends' in a Maxima saloon, BMW 3 series or CLK 320 beating me to the next light. I'd like to have an advantage over stock G35s and 350Zs also.



In case you're wondering, I live in Beirut, Lebanon.

Assuming you mean WHP then the answer is Nitrous, SC or turbo.

North of 250 N/A to the tire may happen eventually, but it will probably take us a looong time. It took 10 years and the intake manifold we developed to get the 2ZZ over the 200 WHP N/A threshold, and the current records stand at 227 for a 1.8L and 235 for a 1.93L stroker. And that 227 was a fully race built 14:1 compression motor revving to 10,200 RPM with our custom short runner intake and a bunch of other goodies.

If and when a Supercharger kit comes out - it would be a good route to a very responsive 250whp.

300whp would require a Turbocharger kit undoubtedly.

Both will likely require a fuel system upgrade and also a stronger clutch.

I'm looking for 250 whp and don't mind putting some FI under the hood.

I have the AT, not the MT. So would changes need to be made to that?

That's yet to be seen. I don't think anyone has added FI to an AT FR-S yet.

You will without a doubt need FI to attain that power level. That's roughly 90whp over stock.

The most power that I believe NA users will see without opening up the block is roughly 200whp which will require a complement of good bolt-ons and also some tuning.

The transmission is the weakest point. I don't see the AT handling much over 200. With the way it is setup the internal clutches in the transmission will wear very fast. The car is made to shift like a DCT without having all the technology. It is pretty much just a stock transmission with a better tune and maybe better solenoids.

I would say a good torque converter, good fluid, and a cooler you could handle it but I would think about upgrading the valve body and maybe see if IPT or Level10 will come out with some bulletproof clutches. All that would be 5k or more; torque converter 600-1000, fluid 80 bucks, and cooler 150 if you went the minimum route.

This might be the case if you hold it to 200 before red-line, but look at the graphs again. If you pay attention to the line all the way across they stick together or maybe the intake side will dip down below where the car needs more power. With such a low torque number on the car I would not sacrifice an ounce of power down low. Maybe think about just getting a drop in filter until more tune options become available.

Exhaust has been doing much better on the car but it makes the car run rich. With a tune this could mean big numbers. Same issues have been seen with an intake, but not with the initial numbers before tune. There is a reason Perrin decided not to release their intake yet.

I see, so basically you're saying with the current available intake and exhausts, on some levels it's faster but also slower depending on the RPM's.
Now then, very important question...What are the pro's and cons of a tune?
Also, when Perrin finally releases an intake, is it your opinion this will also need a tune for any increase in performance?

Can't tell you how valuable this info is to us non-mechanically inclined. Thanks in advance.

You should give Perrin a call or really any of the manufacturers. Intake at this time doesn't seem worth it, exhaust does; however, this means you will be running rich. A tune will be a massive power boost and it is the only real way to get the car running at peak performance. The trade off on a tune is you could get a bad tuner that could mess your car up and after a tune it is very doubtful that the manufacturer will warranty anything on the power train. The car does log changes made, btw. Waiting for a piggy-back system could potentially solve this issue but would not be as accurate or as good in general as a direct tune. There is a reason they call good things "finely tuned," it's because they work. At this point intake, exhaust, headers and all that are good and make some gains but are severely limited by the ECU and as Perrin posted on their intake thread it could potentially do damage to the car until a tune is added.

Perrin intake R&D

GT legacy engine swap. 300hp, stock like drive-ability.

Well they supercharged an IS250 (same transmission as the 86 - but 86 has a better shift logic) to produce 240Kw at 6500rpm and 351Nm at 5500rpm. So it's possible but not sure how long the transmission lasted though. :iono:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-emSrKj70Fo"]280kw RGMotorsport Supercharged Lexus IS250 - YouTube[/ame]