2017 Alignment
 

Having trouble posting picture, so basically I put in some camber bolts on the 2017 PP car to get a little - camber, car is completely stock otherwise on the suspension.
Went to get alignment this morning, and guy that owns the shop turns out to be a regular on HPDE days and knew exactly what I was looking to do.

Both of us where surprised when he put it on the machine and the rears out of the factory already had -1.4 camber. I was under the impression stock alignments and zero negative camber rear? He was actually able to get the rears to -1.7. Fronts unfortunately we could only get to -1.4 with just the camber bolts.

So current alignment, stock suspension with whiteline camber bolts.

Left front Right Front
-1.4 Camber -1.4
5.7 Caster 5.8
.01 Toe .02

Left Rear
-1.7 Camber -1.7
.08 Toe .06

Just use camberbolts in both strut holes. In addition to whiteline's you have for upper hole, SPC for lower. Should net you ~ -2.2 for front at stock height. Given camber you already have for rear i guess you can get by w/o rear LCA.

But indeed, very weird to hear about -1.4 camber in stock car/stock suspension. I guess, untill you got more neg. camber with bolts in front, car felt rather understeer-ish?

This is normal. Front bolts will only get you max -1.5 camber and rears naturally have negative camber.

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Yes has felt understeerish which is why I bought the camber bolts. I have a track day next week, will see how it feels now. If still not enough will take your suggestion to get more negative in front. Thanks

You can put the whiteline bolts in the bottom holes, and then put the bolts from the bottom holes in the top holes to get a bit more camber. Should get you in the -2* o -2.2* range.

It depends which WL bolts...the 14mm or the 16mm...

+1 the rears are usually in the -1.5 range plus or minus a few tenths.

I'm surprised it's even across the back, mine had a 0.3 degree difference and others have had up to half a degree. Maybe they tightened up the tolerances back there on the newer models.

How did he adjust the rear camber? I just realized you said he got it there.

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I don't know how it got it to move that little bit in the rear, though I was watching the computer screen the entire time he was doing and reading out the numbers to him so he didn't have to constantly duck down and to see the screen. Just kinda fell into place when he was adjusting toe in the rear.
The rears took him all of 10 minutes to adjust, he spent ages in front trying to get the same camber on each side. Passenger side didn't want to play nice.

Right, keep forgetting there's two options.

I get approx -1.7 with the 16mm and then up to an additional -1.5 with the 14mm at max adjustment for a total of -3.2 on factory coilovers. I wouldnt be shy about quoting -1.5 for either set. The 16mm only yields a tenth or 2 extra adjustment over the 14mm, from my experience.

That post you quoted was in reply to me saying to run the WL bolts in the bottom and put the bottom bolts in the top.

Right... you're not going to be able to fit a 16mm bolt in a 14mm hole are you? lol

Then 1.5 from the 14mm's + whatever 2mm of slop on the top hole can get you. I've not tried myself but others have gotten as much as -2.8 from alignment shop that specialize in track cars. The dealer or sears/firestone/costco type places might not be willing or able to do it.

People will try :lol:

- Andrew