Originally Posted by Zentec (Post 2965025)

This also segways in to the that it is a high rev high compression. No it's not a f1 as 18k rev and engine design is totally different. They also change there oil after every race. I know track people that change oil after each session.

Originally Posted by Lust (Post 2965019)

Your post was helpful actually though. Thank you.

Originally Posted by Zentec (Post 2964959)

Right hand drive has nothing to do with anything. The Japanese OM has everything to do with it because these cars are Japanese engeneered cars. If you bothered to read the post link I quoted all the way. You would understand that the only reason they use 0w20 in the North,South American and CA is that the dealer/manufacture gets a price cut/car and incentive back for each car that is "fuel efficient". That was from the Subaru OM. If you actually know anything about oil even if you live in a snow belt ect a 0w30 or even a 5w30 is better for protection and cold weather start. Other than that the different brands of oil have different additives ect like different brands of gas. What is important is the winter and the weight like 91 octane is the minamum and recommend is 93. The brand is up to you after octane gas is all the same but with different additives ect for different brands.

Originally Posted by mav1178 (Post 2965098)

So a Japanese engineered car means you have to read the Japanese Owner's Manual and take the others with a grain of salt?
Lol no you don't have to do anything. The point I made is Subaru engineered the tolerances up to 40 weight depending on your driving style and conditions. In the OM it says"0w20 is ideal for the best fuel economy!! " "an oil with a higher weight may be better suited if the car is operated at higher speeds or under extream load condition" this does not mean towing with the car it means tracking the car. The reason I went so far as to look up the information in the Japanese OM was knowing these cars have high tolerances I wanted to know what the Subaru engineers recommend because they did not mention them in our OM.


You know what BMW recommends in their cars? Yes I do it's Castro the weight can very between M models and regular. They also have oil changes ever 10k miles or once a year what ever comes first. I know I use to have one. Whatever the dealer sells, or a specific type of Castro. it's Castro

You know what happens when you run an oil outside of those guidelines? Nothing. Wrong! This is where you do not understand and you are making assumptions. The weight in the 0w20 is the 20 and that 20 weight is only measured when the oil is at operating tempature. Once oil is at temp with the 20 weight you can daily drive just fine in normal climate temps. If you take the car and track it with the 20 weight you can ruin the engine as in the OM says under high speed and load a heavier weight. As the 20 weight is for fuel effency.

But your warranty coverage may be impacted in case the oil causes engine failure. if you operate the car at high speeds on a track on the 20 weight yes you can because they can say it says here in the OM a heavier weight should be used. This is why I looked up the manufactures recommendation. Now if you put a 50 weight in yes you could because the tolerances are not set to Handel that high of weight.

But no one cares if you run a non-BMW approved oil. what do you mean by non BMW approved? If your talking about brand it doesn't really matter. But If you do not use the BMW approved grade usally grade 5 API ILSAC oil this is the oil stamp on the back of the oil container.

From the thread you referenced and what you wrote:


So why are these oils better than every other 0W-20 on the market? Or are we just basing decisions on assumptions and not fact?

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon (Post 2965061)

Among other things, 12.5:1 is why I gave it points for being slightly exotic. 7400 RPM is a snoozefest.:thumbdown: No not a snooze fest yes I would be so much happier @8or 9k personally I think it could handle it but don't know how reliable it will be that probably why they didn't take it there. On the other hand we're pretty close to the bore and stroke of the s2k.


I'm lost here. How does high rpm and high temp create load? What kind of load? high engine speed aka rpm and keeping it there on a track this is a mechanical load.

Your point about increasing the weight of the oil for towing a trailer is wrong. I never said towing in the quote above.

No offense intended. The engine is capable producing a fixed maximum force against the rod journals and distribute it along the mains. Hooking up a trailer or whatever doesn't change that. I would never hook up a trailer to an 86 as it says in the OM do not tow with this car Page 205.

Increasing the operating temperature of the engine or the oil, for whatever reason, is the only valid reason for fiddling with viscosity... ok, that and compensating for slutty journals, but that's it.
No!! 20 weight fuel effency for daily driving. Going to a 30 weight you lose about 1-3% mpg but gain protection. For me protection is better than a couple mpg.


Unless you're talking about an engine designed specifically to shed heat through the oil, (think Suzuki GSX series engines) an oil cooler is there to preserve the engine by preserving the oil. Not so for cars. The point as I stated of an oil cooler is to keep the oil from getting to hot by keeping the oil at desired temps. You can install the thermal plate that will start cooling the oil at a certain point. As I said the point of this is so your oil dose not get to hot that it starts to thin out and you lose protection. The plus is when you maintain your oil temp your oil pressure stabilizes as well which keeps you protected. You should have your oil temp and engine coolent temp fairly close. The main point is not to prolong oil life but it can do so as it dose not over heat the oil.

Just like cooking oil, engine oil literally goes rancid with exposure to oxygen. The higher the temp, the quicker the oxidation. wrong and partially true. Regular oil is like this although the tempature is a bigger factor. But fully synthetic oils that we use in our cars. Synthetic motor oils have a higher tolerance to heat and aging. The performance characteristics of these synthetic lubricants can be custom-designed to exceed the performance limits of petroleum-based motor oils _ and their use can possibly increase the life of your engine. If you over heat your cooking oil it loses its lubercation and thins out same as a car. Now if you go further and heat it to its flash point boom flames now stuff gets black. If you exceed the temp for the weight of the oil in a car you loose oil pressure and protection if you exceed the temp for syn oil your going to have a ton of problems lol.

Keep it cool and it lasts longer.

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon (Post 2965117)

I base my decisions on the fact that my assumptions are always right.

Originally Posted by mav1178 (Post 2965097)

I've found that owners tend to be in two groups:

A large group that completely ignores the Owner's Manual.
Ok I can understand this. You must be in this group.

And a smaller group that basically nitpicks every type of technical spec or documentation out there.

Originally Posted by humfrz (Post 2965170)

:popcorn:

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon (Post 2965190)

I'm done. The bullshit has gotten way too deep. I don't do well with it.


That seat taken? :popcorn:

Originally Posted by Zentec (Post 2965025)

Depending on the oil cooler it will cool it around 9-10 degrees F.

Originally Posted by Zentec (Post 2965152)

My question to you is what grade octane do you put in your 86/brz and what brand do you use the most and why??