Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB - Motul 8100 Eco Lite vs Motul 300V vs Eneos Sustina

- Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=41)

- - Motul 8100 Eco Lite vs Motul 300V vs Eneos Sustina (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119397)

Quote:

Originally Posted by chaoskaze (Post 2964888)

if you use 0W-20 make sure you get good cooling.

Japanese manual recommend you use 30weight oil for all application and 5w-40 for heavy track use & 0w-20 is for fuel economy.

https://www.subaru.jp/afterservice/tnst/pdf_brz/1/6.pdf

The poster ain't driving his car in Japan ........ so whats the Japanese manual have to do with the situation ..... ??

Besides, the poster is from California ...... enough said about that ...!!

The Japanese cars are right hand drive and his is a left hand drive car .... :iono:

@chaoskaze ...... you usually have your head screwed on straight but, ...... I'll have to agree with @Tcoat and @Ultramaroon on this one ....... that you slipped a cog on this post ....... :rolleyes:

:(

humfrz

Quote:

Originally Posted by humfrz (Post 2964892)

Most of the Japan is cooler then the states south of oregon thou, if they think it's hot enough to use 5w-30 everyday, i think it's good enough for me to follow. :party0030: :burnrubber:

Plus american auto industry policy/regulation is all about lawsuit/profit. I'm sure subaru of america doesn't feel like the need to test of other kind oil like how they do it in japan.

*1 + You, tcoat & ultra all live in the snow belt. :X... I would stay with 0w-20 there.
*2 I used 0w-20 for 50000 mile. But i know there are times my engine are obviously making slightly different noise with that 0w-20 after staying high rpm for like 20+ minutes in cali.
*3 I love you guys no homo.

Thanks Chaoskaze I was posting from my phone so I could not post the pick of the OM in Japan. I used the same reference in my other threads. As they can see now these engines were designed for 30 weight. It's the fuel economy you get with the 20 weight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by humfrz (Post 2964892)

Right hand drive has nothing to do with anything. The Japanese OM has everything to do with it because these cars are Japanese engeneered cars. If you bothered to read the post link I quoted all the way. You would understand that the only reason they use 0w20 in the North,South American and CA is that the dealer/manufacture gets a price cut/car and incentive back for each car that is "fuel efficient". That was from the Subaru OM. If you actually know anything about oil even if you live in a snow belt ect a 0w30 or even a 5w30 is better for protection and cold weather start. Other than that the different brands of oil have different additives ect like different brands of gas. What is important is the winter and the weight like 91 octane is the minamum and recommend is 93. The brand is up to you after octane gas is all the same but with different additives ect for different brands.

How did I get dragged into this? Don't have access to the manual right now but the Canadian version does say to use heavier oil for harder use.

Not sure about the whole argument that they use the lighter oil because they get paid for reduced fuel consumption. The reduced fuel consumption requirements are pretty much world wide not just the US. They are not optional if you want to sell your cars and nobody is getting paid for them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by chaoskaze (Post 2964895)

:bellyroll::bellyroll::bellyroll:

Gotcha, huh! ...... :D

I was jest ah messen wich ya.

@Zentec FYI

My post was made late at night, after a week of day caring for three granddaughters, listening to "The Wiggles" and "SpongeBob" and changing poopie diapers, therefore my mind decided to post something immature ....... :sigh:

@Tcoat and @Ultramaroon had nothing to do with it ...... they were still up and posting ...... so, drug them into it as part of my "funny".

I'm OK, now, I found ma meds ..... :confused0068:

humfrz

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tcoat (Post 2964967)

The US and CA OM say the same thing in regards to if under load use a heavier oil but what they don't show is the weight. Each car a manufacture sells in US and CA that is a part of there line they have to pay x dollars for that car that is not in a certain range of mpg. Now if you release a model that is more fuel efficacy that the Previous year you will get a credit per vehicle.

Almost all cars and trucks by Toyota all have the same section in the OM and use 0w20 in them includeing the tundra and Tacoma. That is rediculas as if you use it for towing/ hauling you better have more than a 20 weight in there.

It says right in the OM 0w20 for cold start and fuel economy. Notice in the pic of the Japan OM it says only 0w20 for eco and sudjest 5w30 up to 40 weight for race/track applications.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zentec (Post 2964959)

Right hand drive has nothing to do with anything....... .

DANG! ...... Zentec ....... I was "trying" to make a "funny". I reckon I'm not too good at it ..... :sigh:

mrs humfrz says that since I'm usually serious, when I try to make a funny ..... people think I'm still being serious ...... :(

(I thought the reference to right/left hand drive would have given it away .... :iono: - guess not)

humfrz - will make no more funnies no more ..... ;)

My take on the manufacturer's recommendation going from 0w20<->5w40 is that there's nothing exotic about the engine. Ok, it's a little exotic but not like an F1 machine or anything.

I think engine longevity has as much to do with manufacturing tolerances as it does with care and maintenance. We have some local guys who regularly beat the living shit out of their cars with no oil cooler and they're fine. Keeps me grounded while I tinker away with my comically-oversized adjustable setup.

I'm with @chaoskaze when it comes to hearing/feeling the difference as temp changes, oil ages, or the level changes. Doesn't matter what engine. Drive a machine long enough and we just get to know it. :thumbsup:

I daily mine but, when I go carving, my tach stays above 5K. It's not a question of NA-vs-FI that drives the requirement for an oil cooler, it's how the engine is operated. High RPM cooks oil.

OP, just use decent oil and change it more often if you beat on it. If you really want to get to know how your driving affects it, install a pressure gauge. You'll see pressure drop dramatically when it gets hot. You'll also notice how tight this engine is. Even with 0w20, my oil pressure is about 120psi on cold start. That's an awful lot of pressure on the front galleys which are literally made of 2 plates sandwiched together with a row of M6 screws.

I've been wandering all over the place so I'll stop here. My main point is that brand doesn't mean shit. Just change it often enough and don't let it run dry. ;)

I think this got a little of topic with a little bit of trolling. Either way I had already determined a while ago that I'd just use up the cases of Motul I have and get an oil cooler. I don't think there's a need for further "suggestions."

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lust (Post 2965009)

Disagree. Here's another. Be happy your thread was interesting enough for someone to resurrect it. :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon (Post 2965013)

Disagree. Here's another. Be happy your thread was interesting enough for someone to resurrect it. :D

Your post was helpful actually though. Thank you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon (Post 2965002)

My take on the manufacturer's recommendation going from 0w20<->5w40 is that there's nothing exotic about the engine. Ok, it's a little exotic but not like an F1 machine or anything.

This is contradictory as they designed the engine for this range of oil. This also segways in to the that it is a high rev high compression. No it's not a f1 as 18k rev and engine design is totally different. They also change there oil after every race. I know track people that change oil after each session.

I think engine longevity has as much to do with manufacturing tolerances as it does with care and maintenance. I agree 100% for above reason.

We have some local guys who regularly beat the living shit out of their cars with no oil cooler and they're fine. But for how long??? Climate and driving style plays 100% of this part.

Keeps me grounded while I tinker away with my comically-oversized adjustable setup.

I'm with @chaoskaze when it comes to hearing/feeling the difference as temp changes, oil ages, or the level changes. Doesn't matter what engine. Drive a machine long enough and we just get to know it. :thumbsup:

I daily mine but, when I go carving, my tach stays above 5K. It's not a question of NA-vs-FI that drives the requirement for an oil cooler, it's how the engine is operated. High RPM cooks oil. correct. The oil cooler demand is that fact that high rpm and high Engine oil temp create load and once at operating tempature the 20 weight oil will thin out even more creating less protection and pressure and can increase engine damage. The increase in weight of an oil creates better protection under load. The point of an oil cooler is to cool it enough for the oil to maintain the protection and pressure. Depending on the oil cooler it will cool it around 9-10 degrees F.

OP, just use decent oil and change it more often if you beat on it. If you have 30 weight +/- the oil cooler even if you "beat" on it you will be fine to change your oil at the recommended in the OM as long as your not losing oil somewhere.

If you really want to get to know how your driving affects it, install a pressure gauge. You'll see pressure drop dramatically when it gets hot. You'll also notice how tight this engine is. Even with 0w20, my oil pressure is about 120psi on cold start.
It will be higher if you are below 0F temps.

That's an awful lot of pressure on the front galleys which are literally made of 2 plates sandwiched together with a row of M6 screws.

I've been wandering all over the place so I'll stop here. My main point is that brand doesn't mean shit.

It dose mean something see my comment on additives ect. The winter and weight make the most diffterance as long as you have the approved API grade full synthetic your fine.

Just change it often enough and don't let it run dry. ;)

I would add and use the proper weight for diving style and climate conditions. Interval for changes also depends on driving style and amount.
Dive happy :burnrubber:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lust (Post 2965009)

Sorry about that ....... :slap: ....me.

humfrz