Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB

http://i.imgur.com/eqBkTBZ.jpg

This is going to be a long post so it might be done over the next couple days. Bare with me. With the release of the new v2 JDL kit this year, there is very little info for the public on install and sound clips at this point. My goal was to make an install video and step by step guide to help anyone out. This install is very simple and can be completed with standard hand tools. I did this in my home garage with a floor jack.

First and foremost. I am not responsible for your use of this tutorial. This is at your own risk!!!!

This install took be roughly 15 hours with some added work here and there just rechecking things. JDL makes this very easy by bagging and labelling all parts and contents. Could not be happier with this kit.

Tools needed:

Flat head screw driver
Philips head screw driver
1/2" socket wrench (these are purely my preference)
1/4" socket wrench
swivel head attachments
assorted extensions
8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15mm sockets (deep and short well)
Needle nose pliers
Adjustable wrenches
pry bar
4mm, 6mm allen keys

I will skip past some of the obvious steps like Under panel, front bumper and stock intake system. You can figure it out.

http://i.imgur.com/H5gbXXj.jpg

1. Drain engine oil
2. Remove the exhaust manifold (6 14mm bolts and two 14mm nuts connecting to overpipe.) use a 6" extension and swivel joint to get the hard to reach middle nut on drivers side.
3. Set up new exhaust manifold- attach wastegate to manifold with the provided hardware and gasket. Make sure you have the correct spring in the wastegate. See instructions provided by precision for correct spring pressure.
Attach dump tube to wastegate.

4.Remove all the 10mm bolts securing oil pan to bottom of engine block. The pan will not fall on you, this pan is held on by a seal that must be pryed off which is more than likely going to bend the pan. I opted for the prewelded oil pan JDL offers to avoid having to re-use the stock pan.

I found it easiest to pry close to the thermostat housing to get best leverage. Do not mar up the mating surface by using a screw driver....USE A PRY BAR!

http://i.imgur.com/TbLzlfZ.jpg

5. Once the pan is removed, clean the mating surfaces to ensure a proper seal can be made. Once completed, use oil pan sealant on the pan to prep for re-install. I used RTV ultra oil resistance gasket sealant.

Ensure you have a continuous bead around the entire pan, I chose to go around bolt holes as well. Hand tighten pan onto block and let sit for 1 hour. Do not tighten. This sealant needs to harden up slightly to get the best seal.

Added this video that goes into some detail on removing/installing oil pan as well as fitment with the uel manifold.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWvaS23Z5HA"]JDL V2 Install Footage for BRZ/FRS/GT86. Oil pan/exhaust manifold tips,tricks. - YouTube[/ame]

6.Use 8mm socket to remove stock map sensor under the engine cover. Replace with OMNI 3 bar sensor. Again I opted to have this included in my kit from JDL.

http://i.imgur.com/Z6DBWnz.jpg

8. Clamp the vacuum line under the intake manifold. I did not get a picture of this as I did it months before in preparation to install a turbo kit.
There are plenty of threads online showing which lines, do some research.

9. Replace PCV valve behind intake manifold with an STI PCV valve.
Again I did this months before. no pictures sorry, if you are installing this kit you are more than capable of figuring this out.

10. Go back to oil pan. by this point the gasket sealant should be ready to torque down. I torqued to 8 ft lbs. Go in a criss cross pattern to seal up nice and good. Gasket should be smooshing out around the entire pan. Do not over tighten!!!!!

11. Using new header gaskets install the new exhaust manifold onto the heads. This will take some maneuvering, passenger side first will make it easiest. but can be done with patience. Do not tighten all the way down as some adjustment may be needed. Check for clearance on the wastegate to engine block.

http://i.imgur.com/xP153GJ.jpg

12.Seperate exhaust housing from turbo using the adjustment bolts around the outside of the housings. Your turbo will need to be clocked to get correct oil feed and drain oriented correctly. Tighten down using allen bolt hardware with appropriate allen key. I believe it was a 6mm.

13.Remove the oil galley plug right in front of throttle body to install oil feed line. Reinstall using the supplied copper crush washer. You can install the feed line into the turbo to check for clocking but do not tighten down yet.

http://i.imgur.com/BZMnmBC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Jm5OH8V.jpg

14. Remove 6 12mm bolts holding the hood latch and support brace to assemble intake and intercooler piping.

15. Remove the 8 12mm bolts holding the crash beam to the frame. On the drivers side you will need to remove the 2 10mm bolts securing the washer tank and the Philips head pin holding the fill nozzle. Unplug the horn from the harness to allow the beam to come off. Use some help with this as its awkward to move on your own.

http://i.imgur.com/Um5hEIP.jpg

16. Here is where things can get a bit tricky. You need to clock your cold side of the turbo to kit the silicone tube to meet the BOV pipe and connect to the drivers side of intercooler. It took a few tries to get clocked correctly. I left all hose clamps loose until the entire piping tract was completed.

17. Attach down pipe to exhaust housing and mate up to overpipe. My particular kit came with a defective pipe that hit the radiator shroud. JDL replaced this for me at no cost. Install o2 sensors into pipe. I did this prior to installing the pipe for reference. Use provided hardware and gaskets to attach to overpipe...Again I didn't tighten until everything was completely done. Plug in o2 sensors.

http://i.imgur.com/ND5KJu8.jpg

18. Install pancake pipe onto passenger side intercooler outlet. I had to trim the top of my radiator shroud where the sticker is to get a better fitment. Attach MAF tube into pancake pipe and attach to throttle body. Make sure you install the correct direction. The MAF sensor should plug into the harness on the drivers side of the tube.

http://i.imgur.com/Y3lTp17.jpg

19. Now you can modify the stock crash beam to fit the intercooler or get a drift bar, whatever you choose it is time to reinstall with the 8 12mm bolts. I tightened again in a criss cross pattern after all 8 bolts where hand tightened to ensure everything lined up.

20. Attach BOV onto tube between turbo and intercooler. Set to the softest setting possible. This BOV will flutter some at low boost. No need to destroy your turbo faster by setting to harder pressure. Run provided vacuum hose under the silicone elbow and set next to master cylinder.

21. Attach AN fitting for the oil return from the turbo. Use provided hardware and gasket. Attach AN braided line from drain fitting on oil pan to turbo drain. Tighten with an adjustable wrench. No need for sealants, this is a taper fit. No leaks!

22. Attach provided vacuum line from wastegate and route along frame behind the radiator. Connect to turbo vacuum fitting on cold side. Make sure this isn't touching or to close to any heat source.

23. Re-install support brace and hood latch. Check for clearance over the intercooler pipe to ensure nothing is rubbing. For piece of mind, I took some extra vacuum line and cut to make a bumper between the support beam and piping. See pictures. Attach intercooler support bracket. If you do not have newer engine mounts or aftermarket ones this bracket more than likely will not line up. I cut the top 1/2" off and drilled another hole to fit correctly.

http://i.imgur.com/FPGCVd1.jpg

Make sure everything lines up and start tightening up all exhaust bolts and hose clamps. You are almost complete.

24. Cut brake booster line before the check valve. Insert the T fitting provided and clamp brake booster line. Cut the vacuum line to length of your choice and clamp onto the T port. Don't use the entire line. This should be as short as you can comfortably make it.

25. Attach intake tube on compressor side of turbo and tighten clamps. wiggle in the K&N filter so it sits right behind driver headlight. Attach vacuum line from intake tube into the crank case vent line right behind the ac compressor. This does not come with a fitting for this (I had one in my tool box) You can remove the line completely and attach a new hose there under the AC compressor but by this point I was too lazy. Your choice :)

Go over all your exhaust bolts again and check for tightness. Check hose clamps again. I was paranoid.

26. Fill engine oil with your choice (I am using 5w-30 full synthetic by mobil one and filter.

27. If you didn't have ECUTEK before this kit, install it now according to your tuner specs and instructions.

You are now ready to prime the turbo- use you preferred method for this. Not telling you which way to do it. BUT make sure there is oil in it before starting the car.

Get a sandwich or beer which I am sure you have been consuming by this point. And get ready to start the car.

Yay it fired up!!!!!!
I did not reinstall belly pan right away as more than likely you will need to re tighten all exhaust bolts as the flex and loosen during the first few heat cycles.

You will need to modify the belly pan to fit the dump tube. I cut the area between the center front cut out squares on the pan. Use you preferred method.

http://i.imgur.com/F4KxDfK.jpg

That is roughly it. Ill read back over this as I upload pictures and add anything I might have missed. Enjoy!!!!!

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys6nGnEGSN4"]Subaru BRZ jdl turbo kit dyno run - YouTube[/ame]