If you look at the scca classes, under C street it says
"86 (including TRD Lowering
Springs, TRD Sway Bar Kit,
and TRD 17-in. Forged Wheel)
(2017)"

So if you then go to Toyota's site and build an 86 and go to accessories, you can see the exact wheel labeled "TRD 17-in. Forged Wheel" which is a "17-in. x 7.5-in. wheel with 43-mm. offset (factory 48-mm. offset)"

What you found was the "TRD 18-in. Alloy Wheel" which is not what the rules specifically mention just as a heads up.

I noticed that the rules mentioned 17" wheels and thought it was a typo because 17" TRD wheels, offered as a port-installed option, appear to be a unicorn. (I can't find them on the Toyota website. Maybe I'm missing something. Do you have a link to the 17" wheels?)


This is from http://www.toyota.com/86/

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...ps1hgaoifu.png

It wouldn't let me do a link that actually worked but this is what I found on their full site, are you on a mobile version?

Attachment 152349

Desktop, but it wouldn't let me "build" without first entering a zip code and that was the issue.

I just googled zip codes for NH, plugged in one (03033) and then I could see a much larger list of options. They must only show stuff that's already on lots within a certain radius of the zip you enter.

Toyota could miss out on some buyers with their website set up like that.

We are considering trading in my wife's AT FRS and getting an 86. CS-legal 7.5" wheels make it more attractive and I couldn't even see them using a SW FL zip code.

It seems like a split between people that are going with 235/45 tires and 245/40's on the 7.5" wheels. how'd you decide to go 235?

The 2016 FR-S Release Series 2.0 (greenish-grey one) also allows you to have the forged 7.5" rims, but that is the only 13-16 version that seems to fit the bill to the rules.

I'm not sure what the earlier comment meant about the 19mm bar not working for Devens. It has worked fine for me on a variety of sites, courses, and tire combos, but I like a looser set-up.

There's your issue I think. For some reason, the SE USA is served by a different entity, Southeast Toyota, instead of Toyota, NA. Those things might not technically be offered on their cars, but I'll bet you can "help" a salesperson with that. Find the part numbers/package codes and then tell them "fidelio."

I think the gearing + 7.5" wheels = better acceleration *and* better grip. My gut says the 2017's will be demonstrably faster than the 13-16's on just about any course.

Yup, those of us in the Southeast US are stuck with the terrible Southeast Toyota site.

I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. I was leaning towards sticking with a 225 on my PP BRZ wheels, but seems like I may have to upsize a bit more.

Ya I went with the 235 for a couple of reasons. The first was that there were already some people at clubs I was running using 235 on a 7 inch rim with good results, so I figured with the extra half an inch itd be even better.

I stayed away from 245 just because of the Bridgestone specs listing a minimum of an 8 inch rim for it.

And the camber bolts arn't coming in until Saturday morning so looks like I'll be running the events this weekend on just tires.

It's been awhile since my last update but a lot has happened!

I've done 3 or 4 events on the car at this point, starting with just the camber bolts on the first event. By the 3rd event I had my 20mm whiteline bar on full stiff and the car was feeling okayish. I was still understeering worse than any car I've felt before and it didn't matter how I drove it.

Then I got to the national event at Devens. And almost every C street driver came up and asked if I had installed the camber bolts yet. Because it looked like I had no camber what so ever. I kind of just brushed it off as maybe I didn't get as much camber as others were able to and did my runs, and sometimes the car would feel okay, other times it would just dig super hard.

So after my runs, my friend had a camber gauge and we put it on the front....

+.5 FL -.4 FR :mad0260:

The bolts had slipped. The camber bolts that I torqued to the factory spec had slipped.

So I decided I needed to fix that, and I mine as well finally install my TRD springs. So after putting on the springs I loosened up the 3 top hat nuts, the strut nut itself, and the two camber bolts and placed it on a jack:

Attachment 154869

I then torqued the tophat nuts to 25ish ft/lbs, the strut nut as close to 35 as I could get, and then the camber bolts to 150 ft/lbs. Maybe a little high, but they were loose enough to take off with a rachet when I torqued them to 114 last time.

The rear springs are going to be done later today, and hopefully my car will finally feel balanced.

Hey, I was the guy next to you in grid. Like I said out there. Forget the torque wrench for those bolts. The proper torque spec for the crash bolts is an 18" breaker bar taken to "I'm gonna hurt myself."

Similar for the 3 nuts in the strut tower. Once in the right position, your short 3/8" ratchet tightened until you worry about bruising your palm or stripping the nut.

You're trying to hold things that float in holes with significant slop, AND see lots of forces, in a very specific spot.

Do not be surprised if you have to regularly re-tighten the sway bar end link nuts as well.

Did you get an exhaust? The Tanabe Concept G is a catback and weighs 19lbs total. It is too loud for an STX car (like mine) but my friend has it on his FRS. Pretty sure it is best bang for the buck weight savings for an exhaust. I wish I could use mine in STX without having to worry about sound :(

I really need an exhaust that isn't going to kill me on the highway, because I drive 20k miles a year normally lol.

So I'm looking for something with 0 drone, low weight, and that gives me that magical 1hp. I'd really prefer dual tips, so the only thing that fits all that is the borla as far as I know.