Yep, agreed. It could be something seemingly insignificant as sand, salt, or other debris getting in the hydraulic system that can cause a massive failure (not saying this is the case for this particular failure).

86 owners, like other sports car enthusiasts, tend to drive cars harder and more unconventionally than 'normal' people.. it's assumed some of us will run into more unconventional mechanical problems too.

I was told at the dealer that water and debris can enter the transmission and affect performance, stating we do not have sealer units. If that is true, then yes, we are likely to experience some "issues".

If you downshift religiously as you come to a stop, you are just wearing the clutch disc out twice as fast. Brakes are cheaper. If you need to drop a gear, rev match.

The clutch fork part number goes back decades as well as the throw out bearing. (the wrx is a more substantial design). If you put in a stronger pressure plate, go billet on the fork.

How you drive will determine how much dust is created in the bell housing. This dust will wear at the plastic in the throwout where it slides on the snout. If your taking off in first, you should be able to release the clutch in 2-3'.

People feathering their clutch on the uphill waiting on the light to turn green won't get the optimum life out of their components.

If I see a red light from far enough and know that it won't turn green before I come to a stop, I put it into neutral and coast until the car stops and apply brakes as necessary. Bet it saves a bit of gas too. I never downshift unless I corner or know that the light will turn green before I come to a stop. And do people actually not rev match?

Almost nobody rev-matches. You will be surprised.

wow ... as soon as I learned how to drive manual, first thing I wanted to do was heel and toe cause it was so cool lol... I was heel-and-toeing in my second week. I have to say, the pedal setup on the 86 isn't the best for that...

The clutch is designed to be used to down shift as well as up shift. If I skip every other gear will my clutch last longer?

It actually uses more gas. Miniscule but still more. When in gear and decelerating on compression the engine is not providing fuel. It is when idling with the clutch in.
If I am moving my car is in gear. ALWAYS! I need to get out of somebodies way I don't want to have to take that half second to put it in gear I want to het the gas and go. Any professional driver will tell you it is always in gear.
Why take your car and turn it into a glorified soap box racer by coasting around?

I don't even use the clutch to shift, it's very easy and won't grind once you get the timing right.

Thanks for the responses guys!

Yes there were some signs before it actually failed. Earlier in the day before the failure I feathered the clutch in 1st going over a ditch and I heard what I thought was a suspension noise. I figured I would just re tighten the front suspension as maybe 70k miles made something come loose. Low and behold it was actually the drivetrain??

But other than the failure was totally random. Luckily I was 50 yards from home before I felt the clutch pedal lose any refinement it had left. I agree I think the extra torque might've been the last straw. Considering I was playing around all night to see if I find a torque dip lol.

I've called a couple shops and they're all trying to upsell me on clutch kits...$1,500 out the door. I tell them I want just the bearing replaced but is this a smart move? I think I still have about 50k miles I can squeeze out of the clutch. I'm wondering if I should just have them replace the bearing and have the clutch kit ready to go just in case something else is damaged?

My name must be "almost nobody"

Me as well. And pile of others on here.

I would be prepared for the worst and have the whole works ready. Not a given but the bearing can shear the fingers off the clutch when they let go. Better to have the parts you need then too have to wait once apart.

Re: downshifting

If you look at the edge of most pressure plates, there are usually three springs that hold the weighted plate to the housing. Not the clamping springs. They are directional to be in tension as when you are taking up the load. There is a possibility of bending them under compression like one someone drops from 5th to 2nd. The best example is an early M3.