Gutted stock header and tune for same HP?
 

what's going on everyone,
so I've got another question. I am still looking to DD my FRS (seeing as I just purchased it) but I am looking into getting some more HP (isn't everyone else though hahaha). my theory, and correct me if I'm wrong, is to buy stock headers and a front pipe and gut the cats to get a more open flowing exhaust. this may not be the best idea to run In the long run but for the time being I want to get rid of this torque dip by gutting both cats and running OFT on stage 2. I can't see spending $600 on headers and another $300 on a front pipe with resonator when I can get the whole stock headers and front pipe for $200. I am keeping my original headers and front pipe to pass smog and everything I just wanted to see what you're opinion on this set up of $200 rather than almost 1K as a temporary fix for the idle dip. I would just gut the cats and not cut and weld pipes as well. trying to keep everything as simple as possible. I know the airflow through the cat housing will rebound off each other but I'm fine with that. I just want more exhaust out so I can get more air in. thanks :thumbup:

Minimal gains, will sound like crap and bad bang for the buck. Save up and do it right the first time.

FYI: You will be able to smell fumes inside the cabin if you go fully catless, and since you're in Cali, I'm sure the cops will recognize the smell as well. Buy a used catless header and pair it with the stock fp. It will keep most of the smell down while giving most of the same performance gains of fully catless.

I have driven my car with a catless fp and stock fp back to back and I cant tell the difference. Other than the smell and sound.

alright, so just a header and thats it? just use the stock exhaust until I can afford it and it'll help with the torque dip? UEL or EL headers? I heard UEL get rid of the torque dip better than the EL headers. is this true?

You can go a long way to eliminate the torque dip with a good tune. It wont be 100% gone without changing headers but a tune deff helps alot.

I was looking at this thread
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96235
and this is what I had been going off of and it seemed like a good addition. like I said, I'm looking for some way to eliminate it while saving up for a full header back exhaust system.

so I'm looking into getting an OFT and running stage 1 until I get headers. what performance difference will I get out of stock headers and a stage 1 tune from OFT?

Every car is different but I would say a couple whp and tq at best.
the real gains are in the headers on these cars.

will it help with the torque dip at all? I'm fine with a couple WHP but I'm mainly looking to line out my torque dip

I went the EcuTek route so I can not comment on if the tuning pad helps with the torque dip or not with just and off the shelf stage1 tune.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96235
what about this? I don't really mind the exhaust or noise

That is minimal gains in my book. Don't even know how much of that can be attributed to the gutted cats. May get the same thing with a tune and intake.

alright cool, Im purchasing the OFT first either way and then ill get a cold air intake and see if that opens up the dip :cheers:

I'm running gutted cats and OFT stage 2. It was a big difference from Stage 1 with the cats. It sounds great too with a cherry bomb and Berk dual exit. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7n3pgL9czCc"]myexhaust86 - YouTube[/ame] I get a lot of compliments on it.

A lot of times when you hear bad things about gutting it's from people who have no experience with it. But it works and it made my car like it has a new engine- huge difference in power but I have yet to dyno it. But My 80-100 MPH time went down by about 1.5 secs and my 0-60 MPH time has lost close to a second too (still on stock tires).

I know the gains aren't the same as the high end headers, but you have the advantage of the stock heat shielding- there is no risk of cooking coils or anything else if you keep the stock heat shields. Also, OEM quality is top notch. No chance of cracked welds.