Really enjoying your thread, especially your style and topical choices. Thank you for sharing.

How is your spare engine these days?

Sleepy Piston's road & track 86 (Swedish time attack)
 

I'm honored to hear!:)

Actually, on yesterday's test day the car threw the P0351 code (ignition coil) and I would have been fucked were it not for that engine! I had brought two spare coils from it since I've read it is a common problem. Lucky me:)

I haven't had the time to do anything more yet with that engine, except stealing the ignition coils.

Anyhow, a full report will follow in the next few days when I'm not limited to my phone and some photos starts to turn up. I'm both disappointed and excited though. I took a second place but the car was supposed to be a lot quicker!

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Yeah, that's me to the right....
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Hahaha!

Well, that engine needs a new crank shaft... I need a recipe for how to proceed with it to handle 300whp track use and not disintegrate:D I assume you have one;)

300-ish is attainable on stock internals. It's all in the tune. I'd just do a good, accurate blueprint rebuild with the rotating assembly balanced and the reciprocating parts matched.

I'm working on my monster oil cooler project. Will have lots of cool photos and a writeup soon.

I've never built an engine before and I am quite lost at what brands I should look for and so on.

Cool! My mishi oil cooler works fine, but during hot summer days the temperature never becomes stable, but continues to rise. (On full attack on a track that is). Usually though, it's not a problem as tires and brakes needs cooling down before it. Not sure what would happen if I was gonna run an endurance race though:P

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I've never up-built (strengthened?) an engine but I've fully rebuilt several.

Whether modified or stock, for longevity, I feel that care given to optimize the fit of each component is the most critical mechanical aspect of a powerplant build.

I've learned since hanging out on this forum, that the tune is an equally critical component. I'm getting familiar with all that stuff now. :)

Had some time to change all the oils and also mount quick latches to prevent the bumper sag! I got lucky and bought universal ones for 20$ a set and the pin had the same thread as the oem bolts that holds the fender! Just replaced one of the bolts and bended the pin for a better angle. Works fine and is a lot easier to install than the 200$ kits that are out there!

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lol "low clearance"

Sleepy Piston's road & track 86 (Swedish time attack)
 

Race report from "King of the south" (it has a game of throneish cling to it, lol)

Friday:
The first day was an open track day and I was supposed to try and dial the chassis in to some extent. I had just received my new winmax 6.5 pads and started to mount them in the morning. I quickly found that the front pads were about 1-2mm to thick! I called my supplier who's located around 3 hours away and he said he had an extra set in his shop and that he could grind them down in the machine for me. Around lunchtime he delivered them to the track for me! How awesome service is that!?

First session thereafter I started to bed the brakes in. They felt awkwardly strange after a few laps, completely different bite in all corners. I was a bit scared as I never knew how they were gonna perform. It took two complete 20 minute sessions before they actually started to become consistent. They are supposed to work well in cold, and yeah they do, but there is a significant increase of bite after the first 20meters of braking or so. I know how they behave now and they work fine. Not a tendency to fade what so ever. I used them on the street now aswell without any issues!

I put the dampers to the same settings I used on the last track day to start of with. That was 7 clicks from hardest in the rear and 4 clicks from hardest up front. For this event I ran R888s instead of the regular AD08Rs and it was my first time ever on R-compound tires. After a few sessions the confidence with them was huge! My god, the grip!

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Race day:
I experienced a lot of understeer in just about every corner and continued to try different settings. When I ran the Ohlins on the same setting front and rear it started to understeer less and I was eventually able to get it to handle quite evenly without any over/understeer by setting the rear dampers 2 clicks harder than the front ones. There is definitely more fine tuning to be done here but I believe the settings will have to be completely different on the Yokos and didn't have any time to test further.

My best lap time from last year 1.11.533 and in the beginning most of my times were just slightly less. I was quite disappointed as I've done so many changes to the car and I was running on R-tires! After I got the chassis tuned in I started to run times just below 1.10 (1.10.593 fastest) and it carried me to a second place which was fun!

I'm now contemplating what I need to adjust. On paper, the car should be quite a lot faster than last year and if that 1 second I've gained is because of the tires, the Ohlins the added downforce or the slightly more powerful engine I cannot say. I wanted to do some test runs on the Yokos at the end of the day but we didn't have any time for it, sadly. Hence it's impossible to say how much I gained with the tires. I hope that after I dial in the chassis even better (also by playing with the ride height) I can find another second somewhere!

Next up is Kinnekulle ring. They call it the Swedish Tsukuba as its small, tight and have many hidden corners. The race takes place on the 2nd of June and I have test day booked there on the 1st. Also, Ohlins themselves have said that they will be there to assist! Last year's quickest time was 1.04.845 (the winner was actually another 86 running a KW clubsport kit on 1.02.514). I sincerely hope I can shave at least two seconds of my time!

Me and my partner in crime's E36 325i. He's fastest time was about 2 seconds slower than mine on Knutstorp ring.
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Nice build! Could you share a little more about the quick release for the bumper? Would like to buy one too

Sleepy Piston's road & track 86 (Swedish time attack)
 

Thanks man!

Yeah sure!

20$ from here: http://www.l-m-r.se/p/universal/exte...re-modell.html

Just remove the bumper bolts on the top, the clips in the front wheel well, and the covers for the washing fluid nozzles.

Then bend the bumper out to get some space. Remove one of the bolts that holds the fender. See my picture above.

Mount the pin and push the bumper back. You'll see a small dent where the pin hits the bumper. Drill a large enough hole for the push clip. Remove the pin and put it in a vice. Gently tap it with a hammer so that it gets a bit bent. You'll see about how much is necessary on the picture above. Then just screw the pin in making sure to get the angle correct and lock it with one of the locking bolts. Mount the push clip and try to mount the fender back. You might need to adjust the angle and/or depth of the pin slightly but in the end it works:)

With just a about a week left before the next race I've for the first time booked an instructor for the pre-race test day! It will be great fun to have someone with a lot of experience riding along!

Also, I'm wondering if the soft spring rates on the Ohlins are making the car seconds slower. As you can see on the following beautiful pictures, it does roll quite a lot! Would spring rates of day 7/8kg (as have been recommended by pros) make me a lot faster or would it just give me less mechanical grip? Ohlins wants me to test out 5/4 now, but it will be a stressful day at the track if I need to change springs and do an alignment in the midst of the races!

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Indeed the roll is quite a lot! Maybe if you change to 7/8kg springs you'll have to re-valve the shocks. Personally, I would do what Ohlins says. If they want you to test now 5/4kg, then do this. I don't think anyone over here is more expert than Ohlins on the new MP20 kit.