Good to hear. Yeah, a car being down is never fun, but you'd be a lot more upset if you continued to drive it and turned a benign problem into something expensive. At least the car is new, so virtually any issue it has will be covered under warranty for repair.

OP, see post 17 and 18 (for him a faulty O2 sensor caused both of these codes) but the dealer can sort it out under warranty:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=20340&page=2

Good lord. Four pages of this bullshit. How does OP survive without a helper monkey?

By the way, to clarify:

They do, except in California and Hawaii. In the People's Republic of California, the idiots in the state government have decided that checking codes is "auto repair." Pep Boys and quick oil change shops can check codes because they are licensed as auto repair facilities. Autozone, O'Reilly's and other parts stores that are not licensed for repairs can't check codes because doing so would take jobs away from hard working auto mechanics. Hawaii's deal is probably similar.

I'll never completely understand why people in California put up with this shit.

Well to keep this thread updated, CEL decided to turn off yesterday just a few days short of my dealer visit. Sigh. Praying that's a good sign.

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The light is designed to turn off after approximately 5x restarts, it will still be stored in the car's ECU provided you didn't accidentally clear it with your reader. You should be able to plug in and still see the codes.

If the dealer says there's nothing wrong, come back if the light comes on again they are being lazy, but I'd put money on them saying that.

It's a good sign that there isn't a consistent problem, but that doesn't mean there is no problem.

Update: took the car into the dealer today and was told that they actually don't do check engine lights on Saturdays :thumbdown: Anyway, they apologized and told me to clear all the codes myself and see if the CEL comes back on so I did. Now afterwards, all the "readiness" monitors are shown as not passing on my OBDII and the first inch or so of throttle is dead, which has made me come too close to stalling many times lol.

So after researching that these monitors will have to relearn/adjust themselves after driving, should merely clearing CEL codes do all this, mainly for the throttle to be unresponsive at the top? I have driven the car for about 30 miles afterwards so that's why I'm asking. Thanks guys.

So, Oxyg3n have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes ...... ??

Maybe the ECU will right itself ...... :iono:


humfrz

Be careful here, because they can also turn tail here and make a stink about you clearing the codes yourself before they could read them if something turns out to be wrong, even though they're the ones who told you to do it.

Also, who the hell picks days of the week to NOT evaluate trouble codes? That just sounds to me like someone didn't want to dig into a car that is still well within its warranty. Truly the first time I've ever heard of a place not reading codes on a certain day.

You may try as humfrz suggested and disconnect the negative terminal for a bit. The car will need to do some relearning, but shouldn't take long. And no, clearing the trouble codes should not cause the car to go into a relearning mode.

I really think you need to find another dealer that doesn't treat you like you're inconveniencing them by their being at your service.

Hey guys. So I need some serious suggestions right now..My dealer looked at my car and I was told that it will need a valve adjustment, which requires taking apart the engine. This is from CEL codes that has something to do with air/fuel ratio as I listed in my original post.
So with my lack to technical knowledge, does this sound right? I really don't want to let them tear apart my engine at only 6k miles. Am I looking at a car that won't be as durable in the long run with the engine being torn apart when new?

Thanks

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My serious suggestion is the same as last time. Find another dealer and get another opinion. Either way, your vehicle is under warranty still, so if they need to go all mad scientist on it, let them. If they don't fix it and/or put it back together properly and something else happens, they'll have to make that right, too.

So was there any resolution to this? This happened to my car today when I was leaving work. I took it straight to the dealership and those were the two codes my car showed. They asked me how the car has been driving and I told them fine, it only has 610 miles on it... so they cleared the codes and asked that if it comes back to bring it back it.

Here's the timeline of my problem. When it first came on, after about 80 miles of driving, it turned off and the dealer told me to clear it and go back if it comes back on. After about 300 miles, I heard some clicking noise when I accelerate and literally a few minutes later the CEL comes back on. I brought it in (but of course it turns off again the day I try to bring it in) and they say I need a valve adjustment. So my car has been at the dealer for about two weeks now and I'm about to pick it up tomorrow.

I'd like to know how yours turn out too so please keep me updated as well!

So far so good. I thought it might be a fuel thing so I drove it as hard as I could (keeping under 5K) until the gas light turned on. Topped off the tank and a buddy and I took it on a cruise with our local Tuner car group and no lights and nothing seems off... Fingers crossed.