Toe arm bolt
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...edc66c5d39.jpg

Anyone ever do toe arms? This nut keeps spinning in place, it won't get loose because the balljoint spins.


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Toe arm bolt
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2776831158.jpg it's been 6 hours and this nut keeps spinning


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Oh, that thing is fucked. Feeling your pain.

The part that is spinning has a taper so it wedges into the axle carrier. Can you tighten it down hard and start over again?

That male thread looks destroyed/worn down. Was that rusted, or is it from 6 hours of struggle?


If you can't get the nut off, it may be time for a dremel and a stack of cut-off wheels.

Or, if you can just grind off the right parts of the base flange (of the nut), you might be able to get in there with a nut splitter.

Hey thanks for your reply! I'm stuck and have no idea what to do! The other side of the toe arm is bent to shit I can't put it back in. The bolt won't tighten. It spins freely. I ripped the rubber thing out and there is a ball it's spinning on loosely. I legit don't know what to do anymore :(. I've soaked it with pb blaster. It can't be that hard to open. How do mechanics do it??

I was thinking of using bolt cutters but only a small one fits and it doesn't cut it.

I tried:
Pb blaster, drilling it, hitting it a couple times with a hammer, using impact gun on it for 20 mins straight, torque wrench, bolt cutters.

Any other ideas that might work?

Thanks for your reply again


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can you not get a torch in there? that would have it off in a matter of seconds.

For starters, you're dealing with a typical ball joint. Same technique goes for control arm ball joints and outer tie rod ends.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....alljoint.2.jpg



Notice the taper. Tightened down, that thing wedges in there HARD. I'm surprised by your predicament. Hell, I've never heard of it happening. The typical struggle is getting the damn thing apart. I use a pickle fork.

http://blog.bavauto.com/wp-content/u...010/09/411.jpg

Hopefully that helps make sense of my suggestion to cinch it back down first so you can remove the nut.

Maybe try giving it a whack from underneath to get a start wedging it in. Don't want to do that with a new one but this one's toast.

Also to wedge in tightly, you actually want the opposite of lubrication. Try rinsing it out with some brake cleaner before tightening.

Let me know what you think.

Now, THAT allowe is a MESS.

If you have tried everything that @Ultramaroon has suggested and it still won't come off ...... I's suggest you try the @JoeC approach.

If you don't have cutting torch, or you're afraid of starting your car on fire ...... I'd suggest you use the humfrz approach.

Which is, drive or drag that car to a automotive shop and have them fix it proper.


humfrz

Toe arm bolt
 

Wow that actually might work. I do have a impact gun, should I use it with those forks?

I was also thinking, needlenose vice grips


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Nah. First, you won't need anything that drastic for this job. It's already loose. Second, I've always had better luck with a BFH than with an impact gun.

Consider using this for the little job.

For what? Serious question.

Toe arm bolt
 

The nut is still on I can't screw it off. The ball keeps spinning. It's not loose bro



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Yes. That's why you need to get it wedged in tight; so it stops spinning and you can remove the nut.

Then you can separate the ball joint from the carrier.

Or, like I said earlier, cut off the nut with a dremel and/or a nut splitter. That's pretty much it.

No need to fuck with torches.

Thank for your help man I'd buy u lunch if you were close to me!

So I got it out:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f466f4fea2.jpg

I used the scissor jack and jammed the side of the ball joint at the bottom in the slot, and kept using an impact wrench. Kept shooting it tight and loose and the nut moved up so slowly but it came right out at the end. I can't even screw it back on (only to test)

I put the new arm in and did a rough adjustment myself. The car drives fine now but there is a "whomp whomp" sound that comes out over 70 km per hour. Any ideas on what it could be ? I'm thinking maybe bearing


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Could be the bearing or you are really out of alignment. I don't care how confident people are in their eyeball calibration an alignment can not be done without proper equipment. Step one would be to0 jack it up and spin the wheel and pull on it from side to side to see if there is any obvious bearing play. Step two is either replace the bearing or get a real alignment. Neither step should include any driving around at speed since the results if something fails could be way worse than hitting a curb.

Before I get an alignment at a shop, I wanna fix everything else. That's what I'm waiting for. My alignment isn't perfect at all. But atleast my abs and traction control lights went off


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It could be the source up your noise though.

Awesome!

Yeah, like Tcoat said. Depending on the speed and angle of the strike, there could be other stuff going on.

Definitely get an alignment and check your wheels/tires/bearings for damage.

If you want to do everything but the alignment you can check by pulling the half shaft so the wheel spins freely. IIRC, you'll need a 32 mm socket. Do a really good job lifting the crimp so you don't bugger the threads on the shaft. I think torque spec for that nut is 130 lb-ft.

If, when you spin the wheel, you hear anything, and I mean anything, that bearing is toast.

Then look for runout on the rim. Get a milk crate or maybe the scissor jack and set it so you can lay a screwdriver across to get it up close to the rim while you spin the wheel. Check both sides but most likely it'll show up on the inside if it's bent. Again, even a tiny bit is bad but maybe can be straightened. There are specs in the manual but I'm on lunch at work now.

Good luck.

Possibly. I might take it to Toyota for a full inspection and just do the work myself. The accomplishment you get when you do your own work on ur car is beautiful


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Yeah, string and a ruler is just so difficult to get a hold of as an amateur wrencher.

:thumbsup:

All kidding aside OP, Tcoat is spot on, any quality alignment shop should be able to perform an inspection when they align your car and find the problem if it's within their domain, and unless you have to tear it apart the alignment will stay true. Sure jack it up one more time and do everything Tcoat suggested before you drop it off, but there's very little point in beating around the bush.

Oh I get the satisfaction aspect but it can reach a point where you create a dangerous situation by insisting on doing it yourself. Not worth it in the long run.

I checked the tire by spinning It and it spins freely. Checked play, nothing The sound is random. I can sometimes go 10 mins without hearing it but then it comes out randomly for about


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So I went to Toyota for an inspection. They said bullshit that wasn't even damaged!! "Oh your rotor is bent". It was fine! How would a rotor bent if it wasn't even in the accident. Bearing and wheel hub are toast. Bearing spins fine too. The only thing they noticed that was true was the rim being slightly bent which I can see. They said my rear brake pads are done. They were changed by the dealer the day I bought them and I can CLEARLY see there is meat on them still. I was yelling at the top of my lungs at them. Fucking idiots. Oh and to do it all it would be 900 bucks. I can get all the parts minus the rims for 150


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OEM rims are expensive, almost as if they had been forged. No wonder high cited price.

double row modular bearings are harder to diagnose than the taper type bearings.


it is best to seat tapered joints with the removal tool then torque the fastener to spec.


the rear alignment needs to be set for thrust and toe and then the front is set with respect to the rear....or you get the crab thing.

You have my attention. Beyond spinning and listening carefully, do you have a technique?

You hit the curb hard enough to bend the arm and that takes some serious force. Everything they said took that same hit.
The rotor could indeed be bent. They are not designed to take lateral force.
Bearing we already told you was probably bad based on your description of the issue.
Hub is the same situation as the rotor.
Rear pads could be split from the force and it doesn't matter how much meat there is on them.


There is not one word there that means they are lying nor stupid and every single thing you just listed is not only possibly damaged by a side hit but is bloody likely to be damaged since they are all attached. How the hell did you think the force got to the arm to bend it as bad as it was?


They are not the ones that smacked the curb and fucked things up so do not whine about the cost.

I paid them to be specific about what the damage was. I couldve guessed every single thing connected to that tire too.. I ordered a rotor, wheel bearing and hub and I'm Guna do em myself. I'm Guna inspect the brake pads that are doing the job well.. I took it to someone else's shop just now and did the same look around but took a bit longer. He also said the bearing and hub Are damaged but theyre functional and not to bear on it. He said the rotor was fine too but I ordered one because they're really cheap. His diagnostics was cheaper, he took the time to take everything apart and even instructed me on what to do next. Oh and apparently the rim is fine too. Just needed weights which he added.

I don't care about the costs. I just hate guesstimates and the whole "replace everything" just to be safe bs... stealerships


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Id like to know how to diagnose them too if you don't mind


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sure...it should actually make more noise in a corner and a light application of the brakes will center the axle and change/lessen the tone.


looking at the parts diagrams, the 16-17 models have a newer part number for the bearing which may relate to 17" rims. just need to type in your vin. stateside 120 or 140 usd but from the price you posted on your toe arm there may be vat penalty.


if the belts are separated in the tire, you will feel it at very low speeds ie less than 4-5mph


if it where my car, I would just swap out that bearing, use that rim as a spare and get it aligned. your car being new, the bearing assembly should come out relatively easily.


5 bar rear set ups have a gimbal (pillow ball in Fuji speak) type bushing where the lower control arm meets the knuckle. I am not sure if they are liquid filled on this model but look to see if anything is leaking. (my old Tribeca has the same type linkage)


I had a car shipped 800 miles a few years ago. the front tapered bearing races got puckered because they where not spinning while being impact loaded from the bumpy ride and the double row on rears started making noise within a 1000 miles from the same shock loads.

Wow thanks for that useful reply!!! That's actually exactly what I'm planning to do. My concern now is the knuckle if it's bent or not. I'm Hoping I can get a hub and bearing assembly together. I just cancelled the order for both, Guna look for them together. Also, I'm changing the rotor to be safe.

Hey, is it safe to change just 1 rotor? I don't mind doing the other but it's an extra hour or two and I got a super busy schedule


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That is one of the reasons I stopped going to the dealerships a long time ago. Their mentality seems to be: "something is bad or going bad, replace anything that is even remotely connected to it". Not only that, their rates are about double of most shops, they only replace parts by OEM parts and take a hell of a long time to do anything.

I found a shop that prepares cars for mostly race and rally, their rates are less than dealerships, they get things done fast and the job is well done. Never ever going back to a dealership after experiencing that level of service and quality job.

Toe arm bolt
 

Exactly! I went to Toyota because I was paranoid and wanted a full diagnostic of the rear passenger side. All I got was "maybes".

I wish I lived close to the place you're talking about man. I'm dying to find an honest shop. I spend lots of money on my cars because it's my passion.

Oh and don't get me started on the mechanics. Like 6 of them around my car, touching it and playing with things that weren't a part of the damage. I have my taillights red painted and they were rubbing it like they were tits or something... oh and some guy was sitting in the car while they had it up on a hoist. The idiot put his body weight on the door and the roof of the car to jump down. I don't know how strong our hinges are but I wanted to walk in there and stab him....




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Toe arm bolt
 

I finally got my hands on a wheel hub and bearing assembly... is there a special tool to pull the hub off of the axle ?

Also... can it be the axle making that noise ? It's just a noise of something catching sometimes.

This is a crappy video of the sound [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPot18Dy-pE&feature=share"]Whoop sound - YouTube[/ame]

I'm so sorry about that crackling!! Listen to the last 10 seconds and the first bit, they have that whomping sound. Any ideas on what that whomp sound is? I'm running on a steelie for now


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I know it's a rough sound clip but any thoughts?


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I wonder if it isn't just scrub from being out of alignment. Replace the bearing. Forget about the rotor. I think that's BS. Get it aligned and then listen.

Thanks for your reply. Yea I'm Guna just replace it and get it aligned and call it a day I guess leave the rotor for now


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Tell the shop all about what happened and ask them if they wouldn't mind inspecting your work. If you meet a cool guy he might point out stuff while it's on the lift.

Let us know how it goes.

The only hard part about pulling the hub off is the large axle nut, check out the diy threads for changing the wheel studs and they should have all the instructions.

I've got an awesome impact wrench . I'm just scared to break the axle while trying to hammer it out of the hub :S


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I've done it three times and never needed to use a hammer, it should wiggle on or off easily unless you have rust problems.

Pull the wheel speed sensor out, that's the only thing I think may be at risk if you have to get ugly with it.