Did it overheat even with a transmission cooler?

Time for an os giken rear diff.


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That would be cool if/when i am making more power and have a solid transmission setup already.

I want to stay auto. And want a trans capable of 350+ wtq, and a nice bonus would be better gearing. The zf 8hp would be perfect. I just dont know whats all involved like the can bus / trans module, and bolting to engine and and drive shaft.

I'm guessing, but I would say about 20 track days. The heat was definitely responsible for both sets of clutch packs failing. I've only overheated the trans twice (idiot light came on) and both times I've had to replace them. Just having 4 usable gears sucks, I've thought about going with 4.88 final drive but that shift from 4th to 5th is terrible. I've also looked into the 3.7 and may end up going this route; with the 3.7 I wouldn't have to shift to 5th on track anymore.

Ah ok that's a little more reassuring then.
I had a 4.5 FD on originally from my NA days but after boosting 4th just topped out way too low and 5th was still useless, you would need a 5.1FD to make 5th usable. A 3.7-3.9 could be another good option. but then 4th starts becoming really long. with a 3.73 3rd would get you to about 105mph and then 4th to about 145mph. If you got the power to keep pulling though or really need the longer gearing in the straights could be good.

now a zf hp8 with a 3.73 fd would be money.
with the zf 8hp 70 rated at 516 lb·ft, gearing with a 3.73 fd 7500rpm stock tire diam

1st Gear
31.34

2nd Gear
47.01

3rd Gear
69.94

4th Gear
88.29

5th Gear
114.56

6th Gear
147.15

The primary reason the trans temp was so high was due to coolant temp. On a 100 degree day, coolant temps were 220-240. Coolant temps addressed with Koyo radiator, slim shroud changes for greater air flow (primary reason coolant temps were so high), and ducting. For the trans, I have now bypassed the heat exchanger and installed a 180 degree thermostat, so coolant will no longer be part of the temp equation. Rather than purchasing a new set of SSP clutch packs, I'll be purchasing a used trans, having the valve body swapped over, and removing the SSP torque converter. This should be completed early next month in preparation for Auto-X and the cars first track day of the year in March. Car will be running Amsoil signature series synthetic trans fluid as well.

Yes. As I broke this down though, it really goes back to the installation of a slim shroud fan setup. It was installed to gain space between the turbo/exhaust/fan shroud. The goal of increased space was accomplished however, the smooth transitions of the factory shroud were replaced with a squared off shroud, creating a lot of turbulence and decreasing flow through the radiator. The auto has a heat exchanger which uses coolant to quickly increase trans temp; works great when the car is run under normal operating conditions but turbo and 100 degree ambient track temps certainly aren't normal, and reduced airflow through the radiator just exacerbated the problem. Coolant temps on this particular track day were 220-240 and even though the trans cooler was oversized, it was sandwiched between the AC condenser and intercooler.

There have been many changes since that track day..... radiator changed to Koyo, fan shroud modified for better flow, AC removed (not a daily driver), fabricated ducting, bypassed the heat exchanger and installed a thermostat, changed to 19 row stacked plate cooler, and changed from WS to Amsoil signature series synthetic. I don't expect to have any trans cooling problems going forward but we shall see.

@North_GA_FRS
When you did valve body, did you have to do anything with the tcu for relearning or anything? Notice any weird issues with the valve body? saw another user having issues with it not be consistent when shifting.

Anyone looked into a A760E swap. Slightly better gearing holds way more power.
“ the electronic controls between the A760E and A960E are the same. (Same number of solenoids, same part numbers for the solenoids, same revolution sensors, same wiring.) They are both controlled in the same way, the difference is mechanical for the most part.”
Wonder how hard this would be to swap.

Are they both the same size pretty much?

Not 100% sure. I think its slightly bigger. Im sure it could fit pretty easy. You would need an FA20 adapter and driveshaft. Not sure if it being so similar if the stock TCU could control it or if you need some sort of can bus adapter.
Seeing what vehicles use this transmission it would be a perfect solution for people wanting big power.

Nothing was done to the TCU/ECU and I never had any issues at all. Prior to valve body install I would have to shift 1500 rpm prior to red line because there was a delay in shifting. That delay was resolved up to 4th gear but shift to 5th is still very slow and unless I lift, the car throws a slip code. If you decide to purchase a valve body, stick with the stage 1; the stage 2 made no difference at all for 5th/6th gear changes.

Anyone had issues boosted with E85.

Mine is throwing code 2757 now again even after replacing the Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid.

How do you monitor your AT temps?