5 things I dislike about my 2017 BRZ
 

I did one of these...I'll put the dislikes below to spare you watching the video if you do not want to.

One thing I learned out of this from viewers is, the exhaust tips on the 2017 BRZ are adjustable. Like, you can slide them forward and back lol

1. Torque dip (better than previous MY's, but still there)
2. Steering wheel (not the wheel buttons, but just how thin it is)
3. Stock pedal spacing (wish they were closer together, hard to heel/toe downshift for me)
4. G-meter (very limited practicality, could be replaced with something more useful).
5. Exhaust tips (sunken in on my car, turns out these can be adjusted!!)

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWK-RxDe3ak[/ame]

Can totally agree on #3

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1. Torque dip (better than previous MY's, but still there) Does it interfere with your 0 to 60 land speed record? Need that 1,000th of a second on your light to light travels? If for track/race use then there are things that can be done
2. Steering wheel (not the wheel buttons, but just how thin it is) I thought the 17s were thicker than the prior ones? I found it way thicker than I liked when I checked one out.
3. Stock pedal spacing (wish they were closer together, hard to heal/toe downshift for me) It is still made as a street car first and needs to accommodate all sizes of feet and shoes. Practice.
4. G-meter (very limited practicality, could be replaced with something more useful). Limited is better than nothing.
5. Exhaust tips (sunken in on my car, turns out these can be adjusted!!) Resolved.

CUSCO SPORTS ACCELERATOR PEDAL - 2013+ FR-S / BRZ

http://www.cuscousainc.com/media/wys...edal_photo.jpg

#3 - Twist your ankle more. It's awkward at first but you get used to it.

Also, there's the GSpeed pedal relocator.

Just the tip?

It interferes with daily drive-ability and performing basic driving activities like, passing.

Actually, yes I do need that extra thousandth of a second :) National level autocross is decided by thousandths and hundredths of a second...I am well aware of what can be done to lessen the torque dip.

My 2013 FRS has a thicker, better feeling wheel than my 2017 BRZ does.

Yep, I have that exact pedal on the BRZ and had it on my FRS as well.

It is indeed awkward, I just couldn't get it down. I like the stock pedals on my 325is, they are well setup for heel/toe straight from the factory.

Although I know your response to #1 is sarcasm, I get OP's point. This car in stock form makes a lot of noise in the torque dip area, but doesn't move much. They might as well take some of that artificial noise out -- it feels silly and kills the sensory feel. Considering a daily drive means that 90% of the time folks are between 2k - 3.5k, the torque dip really is the first thing that should be improved.

Either way, here we are.

Down shift.

OK I will give ya that one then! Not the drivability just the autocross.

Not sure if you've tried this but the easiest solution for me was just to plug in the sound tube and switch to 93 octane (or use octane booster if still on 91).

The "artificial" noise is gone and the natural engine sound is much smoother. Engine also feels more eager to rev through the torque dip area.

Of course, you still won't fully eliminate the torque dip without a catless header and tune. But it's peppy enough for me.

You may know this, but in case you didn't: The car comes from the dealer with a cap stuck in the lighter socket in the glove box. If you peel the passenger side carpet back from the top, you'll see a grommet where the sound tube that pipes in that resonator noise enters the cabin. The cap from the lighter socket is the exact same size as that grommet and will plug the sound tube to keep that silly noise out. They made it to fit that way on purpose, for those of us who think the sound tube is silly.

in my world, torque dip is a first gear thing.

One man's solution to a problem another man thinks shouldn't occur in the first place.

I solved this with boost -- but the stock torque dip felt un-usual in comparison to any other stock car on the market. So I can see why many people don't like it.

Most people haven't driven a Cayman, and i'd bet that some who do would agree with the concept: torque dips suck!

I understand the logistics of why its there, I understand how to 'minimize' the impact of it, but it doesn't change the fact that its there in stock form, and it's a nuisance.

I guess we can all nit-pick about the car in different ways though -- This just seems to be a common complaint. Fixing it would probably resolve the dip complaint, but then could introduce reliability or fuel-economy inefficiencies.

On a different note -- One thing I dislike about the BRZ: aluminum hood dings very easily! I think i'd trade in a few extra pounds added to gross vehicle weight for a stronger stock hood. I've got 4 or 5 dings now (small) that just seem to pop up.

Some of the LS motors, BMW motors and Lexus motors also have a torque dip. Maybe the people who drive those vehicles are not as whiny as 86 drivers?

Seriously, though, I think it's more noticeable in our cars because we're more likely to be driving the car at 10/10 than other people are. They have a torque dip, but they don't really realize it in their trucks or luxury sedans because they're cruising around on an automatic transmissions, not pushing the vehicles anywhere near their limits.

I have a 190 torque mini cooper s 1st generation with half weight smaller wheels. If I am going to do something aggressive, I keep my car at 4k. The car does not want to rev like the FRS/BRZ. It can rev decently, but you can tell it does not enjoy it all that much. Some say that is due to a supercharger that has an optimal range and of course is not logarithmic in its gaining of power. But, with a car that is very old, I still keep it above 4k rpm if I am going to be driving with aggression/strategy. I will pop it into the 6000's for a second before shifting, and reclaim 4000+ again.

I cannot understand any driver of any vehicle aside from a WRX or a turbo diesel that would not keep any and all cars above 4000 rpm if they are driving aggressively. It really makes no sense worrying about the torque dip. If it was at 4500k, and the car topped at 6500 in its peak hp/torque, that would be stiffling.

In some cases I see your point -- I was referring to daily driving, where we (most folks) don't drive aggressively more than 10% of the time. Of course most folks will stay in the power band (above 4k) when driving aggressively. But the torque dip isn't a problem in this area. It's a problem when we are daily driving conservatively. And even then, it's not really a 'problem' -- its more of a nuisance.

I would guess it is for fuel efficiency. Mini cooper has one at the 65-70mph in 6th gear on my 1st generation supercharged. It took A LONG time before people knew it was really there and for what reasons. A lot has changed in 10 years for the average person. Tunes were done only in conjunction with big mods as a necessity. Now tunes are done by themselves and are very fluid. Also, tunes back then were acceptable for warranty if done from a particular aftermarket place. Denon or something it was called.

The stock exhaust tips can be adjusted? How? o.O

I see some people complaining about the dip in daily driving but I never enter it while driving normally because I never shift any higher than 3200rpm, mostly because I know that's where the dip starts. It is very rare that I get the revs into the dip area while driving normally but there have been a handful of cases where I have been annoyed by it here and there when trying to muscle past annoying drivers who accelerate quickly but then drive slow... Anyways, it's rarely a problem.

It is on track/autocross that it's a bigger concern. The battle is to keep the RPMs above the dip at 4800 rpms at all times but I've been to many tracks and autocross courses where my RPMs fall down to 4000rpm which is the middle of the dip and is an awkward spot to be because in 2nd and 3rd, it's just at the point that it's too high to bother downshifting but when you put your foot down, you can feel that nothing is happening until you get the burst of power at 4800rpm. In autocross in particular, there are always some corners where you fall that low or lower in 2nd gear and my transmission really doesn't like being forcing to downshift into 1st at speed. Don't underestimate the dip, because fixing it is one of the main reasons STX cars are so much faster than C street cars.

Apparently there is a bolt on the underside of the tip. You can loosen said bolt, and slide the tip back and forth for desired tip effect. I am going to be testing it out this week!

(really I'm just going for more tip lines from jefe :lol: )

I do know there is a torque dip but have never had it be a problem for me. Either I'm cruising from point A to point B and don't even get up to it or I'm wringing through the gears where doing so is so engaging that I don't think about the dip. Honestly it exceeds all expectations when you think about what kind of power it has, or at least to some , lack thereof

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The shift light always comes on for me before the dip, and 6th gear cruise doesn't get into the dip until I'm over the speed limit.

The dip is annoying and weird feeling, but as a few have mentioned, it's in an area of the torque curve that I'm usually shifting before while street driving, and only passing through once when I'm driving hard.

Agree on the pedal spacing.

The lack of auto-leveling headlights is probably my biggest complaint so far. I've been flashed several times.

" I shift at 3000 rpm and the torque dip is weird. ".

I bet more than half the complainers couldn't tell me when it starts and ends if I was in the car with them. People are funny.

PLEASE make a video on this! Would be super interested on how this works and will do it on my own as well!

Err, I don't think a video is necessary. It sounds just like 99% of all exhaust tips with a set screw (or bolt pulling it together like a clamp). Loosen set screw/bolt, adjust, tighten set screw/bolt.

Just an FYI, the odds of actually loosening the screw on the exhaust tip successfully, i.e. not snapping the head off, are close to zero unless the car is brand new.

How come?

Nearly everyone has ended up either cutting them off or using a hammer to bang it off.

They simply get corroded and the bolt has a small diameter and it just snaps off.

I'll be doing a follow-up of this video where I will go over the exhaust tip adjustment, plus some solutions for the other dislikes.

Exhaust tip adjustment looks pretty simple like Johnny mentioned...

I love mine, well worth it. :party0030:

ok, so you grab the nut, twist it hard, then slide the tip back and forth till it is elongated. Got it. I recommend some lubricating copper grease on your nuts to keep them healthy and shiny for years to come.

I have a lot of *similar* videos to this in my private dvd collection in my closet.

Here's a photo where you can see it. The one on the right is the OEM one that came on the 2013, but it's basically the same. The bolt that was holding it tight (its basically as set screw) is on the left. This is from my Owner's Journal where I replaced mine.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1340553188

Is there any difference to Jefe's process when dealing with a big black one?

Might need some more of that copper lube to make sure it slides in without problems