Helpful DIY Spark plug change video
 

This video is very helpful. If you want to change your spark plugs the easy way.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47Uc729u4Lg"][Re.Boot] FRS UPDATE | How to change spark plugs SCION FR-S BRZ GT86 DIY - YouTube[/ame]

After hearing the dealers price of nearly $500, I decided to just do it after work one night.

I was able to complete the job in around 2 hours, but had to go inside because of the rain about 3 times. So next time I will aim for about an hour.

I used 2x scissor jacks up front, followed by 2x jack stands.
Go ahead first thing and take off the air intake plastic housing, you can leave the duct work, no need to remove it.
Then take the metal skid plate off, I have the OEM exhaust manifold and I did not need to remove it, so don't worry about that. take off the motor mount bolts, jacked up one side of the engine, (driver side), perform the spark plug change. then lower that side down and jack up the passenger side and repeat the process.

I removed the Injector ECU which is 3x 10mm bolts, moved it aside, changed that sides plugs, (passenger) and reinstalled injector ecu, then you just lower the engine back down and put your bolts back on the motor mounts. You are really just tilting the engine more than anything. Be sure to watch for clearance as you tilt little by little to be sure you are not hitting/wedging anything against the wheel well.

You will need:
12mm socket
10mm socket
14mm spark plug socket
3 inch extension bar 3/8
3/8 ratchet
1/4 ratchet
Bottle jack
and of course 4 spark plugs
FT86 speed factory has them on sale.
http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/toyo...l#.WI5S91UrKUk

next time I will try to do my own video, but with the darkness and rain it would have been difficult to film.

What did you use as the jack point when you lifted the engine? Looking to change the plugs next weekend.

I've seen videos where people use the headers to lift the motor.

Big fat NO on the headers as a jack point. No need for explanation. Any solid part of the engine block below is fine as a jack point. Try to center it at the point you choose and use a wooden block for better area distribution.

No need to raise the motor to be fair. Bit of patience & moving the Fuel rail cover / Ecu mount gives a good visual. Did mine without raising, if you do raise the motor do not use the headers like stated above. To get the plugs back in you can use a small vac hose and snug fit it onto the end of the spark plug, use this to start threading the plugs & then move onto your swivel extension / socket to tighten down.

At least in teh video I watched they used a wood block with the header lift :bellyroll:

I am having stock headers right now and I am not patient enough to do it without raising the engine. Do I have to remove the stock headers for this job? If not, that means I have to find a jack point on the engine block that is still accessible with the stock headers not removed right?

Not 100% sure, but I believe you will need to remove the headers to get a good jacking point on the engine. I doubt there is any safe way of doing it otherwise.

You do NOT have to remove the headers to raise the engine enough when changing the spark plugs (if you go this route). A small block of wood on the oil pan is all you need.

Was unaware the oil pan was a safe jacking point. Good to know. :w00t:

spark plugs are actually super easy to do IF you jack up the engine, you literally only have to remove the lower undertray and then 2 bolts (1 for each engine mount) jack up one side at a time to angle the engine, you can jack the engine up using an 8" 2x2 jacking from the engine mount, (I nailed the 2x2 to a 1" 4x4 and nailed 2 side supports to make sure it didn't fall off the jack) place the 2x2 on the bolt on the engine mount to block and jack it up.

Passenger side remove ECU from fuel rail cover and move out of the way and remove fuel rail cover
Driver side unclip / zip tie fuel lines out of the way
Remove fuel rail covers. remove any strut bars.
Put car on stands
Remove undertray
Remove the one bolt from engine mount to cross member on both sides
Jack engine up one side at a time from the exposed bolt head going from engine mount to engine using the 8" 2x2" (jack extension mentioned above)

Now you have all the space, clearance, and visibility in the world to easily remove the coil packs and spark plugs. I changed each side in under 10minutes going slow triple checking everything, you now have space to use a torque wrench for proper spark plug torque specs.

Once completed reveres the steps, and done. can be 100% done on and off stands etc... easily taking your time triple checking everything, properly torqueing every bolt top to bottom in under 2 hours.

Jacking the engine up adds roughly 20minutes of time to then save you well over an hour, make the job 10x easier, and also saves your hands from any scratches.
I see zero reason to not jack the engine up unless you don't own a jack and stands. in which case go buy some.

If changing engine mounts, you can jack the engine up using a block of wood on the oil pan, however for spark plugs you want to create extra clearance by angling the engine so doing one side at a time is better.

I have seen people mentioning that you have to loosen the transmission mounts and disconnect the front pipe to safely lift the engine. Does this need to be done?

Yea

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=R7lMZ7AlN7c

Short and shows what needs to be removed.

This is the video i used its pretty much what @86TOYO2k17 said. Some minor changes but yea its too easy not to do, honestly.

Oh yea i used a block of wood and rubber pad so i didnt damage or crush my headers.

Awesome. Thanks guys. I did it yesterday and worked like a charm. I used a wooden piece like @86TOYO2k17 mentioned and didnt have to undo headers at all. Jacked it up safely on the engine mount to block connection. Everything works fine after the spark plug change as well. No misfires and no check engine lights. It was my first time and it was so rewarding to do it by myself. I appreciate the help guys. ��✌