Intake pipe
 

Another alternative to deleting the sound tube and very easy to do. I went to a performance shop I go to and had them fabricate a 3 inch aluminum pipe w/ bung and got silicon connectors and elbow. Total cost was around $65. You can also just run a pipe w/ no bung and install a catch can. Sorry I didnt do a how to but like I said its very easy. I dont know if it adds any hp but it sounds a lot better now. I will probably paint it black and change to black silicon.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...ownload5-1.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...ownload4-1.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...ownload1-1.jpg

Does anyone know if i should bother resetting the ecu?

Why would you need to reset the ecu? Btw your breather clamp isnt on. Lpokin good!

What advantage does this have over the stock pipe?

Probably none but to give more sound

Is the MAF reading correctly with that mod? It probably is close enough but if it isn't you can have problems in the long run. Only intake mods for me are from companies that have tested their intake and how it affects MAF readings.

my concern is that the stock pipe, which is basically plastic, should run cooler than aluminum.

But it's the same stock intake. This just replaces the turbulent stock pipe. How would that affect MAF readings?

This. Or something innovative plus a tune for it.

There's a reason intakes cost more money. There is R&D and testing behind them.

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Your MAF and ECU work together to read the volume of air entering the intake manifold. They are calibrated to the dynamics of the stock intake meaning from front to back not just the air scoop behind the bumper. Changing the air tube will change how the air flows and therefore how the MAF reads it.

Basically an 'intake' is more than just the air box it replaces. The piping is part of it. This is basically a one off intake. Without testing to back it up this could be perfectly safe and have no I'll effects or it can be messing significantly with MAF readings and one wouldn't necessarily know.

Edit: I should add that I've got no personal experience in this area and my input here is based off of knowledge and information I've garnered from Google research and technical threads on forums. I may have put the pieces together poorly an could be wrong in my assumptions.

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His changes are all after the MAF.

This^

The changes are downstream of the MAF so they should have no effect. It's like a turnstyle at the subway. Once you go through it, they don't care where you go, you've already been counted.

Very interesting. It looks pretty good. I plan on installing a solid tube almost the way you have it in the next few days.

With your stock setup and now adding this tube and couplers, how does the car sound?

Do you have a K&N filter?

Any growl?

Air pressure doesn't work like that. There are aftermarket intakes that will cause a check engine light if the ECU is not reprogrammed. Ill bet this intake is fine but there is a possibility that the MAF readings are off. The engine can adjust using other sensors but with the complex D4-S and high compression I would personally be concerned. Also the fact that the spark plug change interval is so low tells me you don't want to mess with the air fuel mixture as it already seems like a very sensitive thing. But I am no expert and I am often overly cautious when it comes to stuff like this so don't take my word for it.