steelies different lug nuts?
 

hello, hopefully someone can help me out.


so I have been running 17" rpf1 with no issue, using longer lug nut bolts. but due to winter, I have changed it out to 16" steelies.


when installing the wheel to the car, I noticed that the back accepts my long lug nut bolts. while the front, I am forced to use my short stock lug nut bolts because the long ones are too long. my question is, is this normal?


I am noticing that with this setup, my wheel vibrates quite a bit. not sure if this is due to above, or just because my tires are not balanced??


lastly, I noticed that the tire monitoring light did NOT light up when using the steelies. which is strange because the sensors are on my rpf1.


thanks in advance.

After market lugnuts are not intended to be used on stock wheels or steelies. It would be best if you used you OEM lugs on the steelies

thanks for the reply. my problem is if I go this route is the back. the back spindle sticks out longer if I used stock lug nuts (short ones). which is really strange when the steelies all have the same dimensions.

I just use my stock ones. No issues.
Unbalanced tires shake like a sonofabitch.
You TPMS will light up eventually. Mine usually take about a day to realize there is something wrong and the sensors are missing. Makes me wonder just how reliable they really are.

How are lug nuts too long? They just stick out farther. Also, the oem lugs for the FRS have the same seat as tuner lugs so that shouldn't make a difference

Hmmmm...

When I bought my steelies from TireRack, they included a set of lugnuts. The stock lugnuts (at least on mine) are closed, and the ones from TireRack are open. I thought I read somewhere (here? TireRack forum? Dreamed it? who knows..) that the stock closed ("acorn" kinda) lugnuts couldn't be tightened down enough on the steelies. Worth checkin' out.. fwiw, I use the open lugnuts w/ the 16" steelies and the stock lugnuts w/ the stock 17" wheels.

Barry

OH NO! You have exposed the threads on the lugs and now they are all ruined (or so somebody here is probably going to say). My stock ones tighten down just fine. Doesn't really matter if open or closed or long or short (if not toooo short) or plain steel or plated or well you get the point as long as they are the right thread and bevel they are just fine.

LOL @ the ruined stud threads..

T, wasn't there a thread on this forum months ago about someone who kept stripping threads or had some other problem mounting steel wheels and it turned out that, with the steel wheels on, the studs extended ever so slightly further out from the lugnut seat of the wheel, and the closed nuts wouldn't screw on far enough (in other words, the stud would bottom out on the cap of the lugnut) to firmly seat on the wheel? That was I was refering to, anyway. Who knows.. maybe I'm hallucinating. Have you seen the dragons in the kitchen?

Barry

OK.. edit... did some research.. here's the link from TireRack..

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=102

The steel wheels definitely come with different nuts. I THINK that our stock alloys have conical seats and nuts, while the steelies are spherical. If that is the case, then it definitely makes a difference.

by them sticking out further, do you think that will cause an issue? that means that its not all the way to the top when installed. compared to the oem ones which sits flat.


the strangest part is that I cant use the short ones (stock) on the back because there is about .25 of an inch of spindle and the weel is not fully set.


as for the front if I use the longer ones, there will be about .25 and not all the way to the top.


im going nuts, at first I thought I installed it wrong, but changing it around I have the same issue still which confirms the steelies are same offset. but if I put in my rpf1 no issue and all accepts the long ones.

TPMS in Canada on these cars?? Not on my BRZ, and confirmed by the dealer that it's not required up here. You got some 'splainin' to do. And thanks in advance.

Pictures of your concern would help

Yeah, I think we need pics. This either is no problem at all or I have no idea what you are talking about

That is what I meant by "same" taper. My steels use the same taper as stock so work fine. If not the same taper then ya you will need different nuts.

Simple. The FRS has TPMS. The BRZ does not.
FRS>BRZ proof positive.