Heated Mirror DIY
 

Here is the DIY for installing heated mirrors. I used aftermarket mirror glass, but you can adapt these to use if you buy complete mirror assemblies to. It took about 2 hours to do the second side.

I am not responsible for any damage you cause doing this.


Attachment 145908

Parts(for both sides):
Rexpeed or other mirrors(Rexpeed did not sponsor this)
6 x Sumitomo 8240-4422 090-3 multilock terminal unsealed (I think AMP 368084-1 090-3 receptical will work)
2 x AMP 353537-2 040-3 tab
4 x AMP 316836-1 040-3 receptical
Wire: I used 18 awg high abrasion resistance going to the door because it is exposed. I think 22 awg is what the existing harness is
Heat shrink
electrical tape.
Subaru Relay 82501AG041

Tools
flat head screw drivers.
swedge or trip removal tools.
#3 phillips screw driver or socket
Wire Stripper
Crimper
Attachment 145898
Fish Tape

Directions

1. Roll down the window and disconnect the battery.
2. Remove Mirror Bolt Cover: with flat screw driver pull out from the top.Attachment 145899
3. Remove Handle Silver Trip: Pry up with screw driver(there is a whole underneath, then fold up.
   Attachment 145902Attachment 145901
4. Remove Footwell Wire Cover: remove 1 plastic pop rivet, then pull up the rocker cover and pull cover towards rear of the car to unlock it. Put the rocker cover back.
   Attachment 145909Attachment 145910
5. Open the screw cover by the lock
6. Remove Screw in Door handle and, and by the lock (3 total), and the plastic rivet at the top right of the panel.
   Attachment 145907
7. Starting near the hinge and working down and around: Pull the door card out. You will hear pops as you move around, stop when the door can pivot at the top.
   Attachment 145900
8. Swing the panel out,and then slide up.
9. Hold mid air and remove the door latch and lock cable. Pull out the plastic, then move the ball up.
   Attachment 145905
10. Disconnect the electrical connectors, they have a latch that needs to be pushed down with a screw driver.
    Attachment 145903
11. Go put the door card somewhere, check to see if any black rings were left on the door, if so take them off and put them on the door card white rivets so you don't loose them.
    Attachment 145906
12. Disconnect the mirror electrical connector (above the speaker)
    Attachment 145915
13. Pull the plastic back and unclip the mirror cable.
    Attachment 145916
14. Remove the 3 mirror screws. The rubber pins will hold it in place.
    Attachment 145907
15. Pull the mirror assembly off and pull the cable through. This is tricky.
16. Set the mirror aside.
17. Disconnect the two white connectors in the footwell above the passageway. They have latches, but don't need a screwdriver.
    Attachment 145911
18. In the door, behind the plastic carefully cut the electrical tape holding the rubber cable way to the white bracket the mirror cable went through (be very careful not to damage the cable way or wires.
    Attachment 145912
19. Pry out the plastic piece. I used a tiny screw driver from the front.
    Attachment 145913
20. Carefully cut /unwrap the cable way until you get to the wires.
    Attachment 145914
21. Inside the door push the boot of the cable way out.Attachment 145980
22. Feed the fish tape from the footwell. You can use some dry lubricant(talc, etc) to make it easier.
    Attachment 145981
23. When properly inserted it will bulge out the rubber cable way between the body and the door. Don't force it, use you hand to give it a straight path.
    Attachment 145982
24. When you can feel it past the boot, put it back in the door.
    Attachment 145989
25. When it emerges put the wire through the eye. You can run additional wires for turn signals if your new mirrors have them.
    Attachment 145983Attachment 145984
26. Pull the fish tape back out from the footwell.
    Attachment 145985
27. Cut off the wire at the eye(it is bent and useless).
28. Use a small flathead to take the latch off the door harness to mirror connector.
    Attachment 145976
29. It slides back then comes off.
    Attachment 145977
30. Strip back some of the heater wire.
31. Crimp a 040 pin on the end of the new heater wire. I had to pull a few stands off the 18 awg wire and take off extra casing because the pin would not fit around the extra thick casing. The wire should go past the wire crimp point.
    Attachment 145986
32. Insert the pin with the crimps facing out into pin 4(double check this if you get a mirror assembly. You may need to give the casing crimp an extra pinch to get it in.
    Attachment 145978
33. Put the clip back on the connector, using it to push the pin the rest of the way in.
    Attachment 145979
34. You could cut electrical tap and run the wire in the plastic, but I used abrasion resistant so I just taped it along the way, pulling excess to the footwell.
    Attachment 145987
35. Tape the rubber cable way up completely, then tape it to the cable holder.
    Attachment 145988
36. Make sure the rubber boot is in the door.
37. Clip on the cable retainer.
    Attachment 145990
38. If you bought a new mirror assembly skip to installing it.
39. Pull the mirror glass off from the bottom.
40. Carefully remove the mirror cover. Good luck I cracked one.
    Attachment 145995Attachment 145996
41. Untape the mirror cable at the end and at the boot.
    Attachment 146009Attachment 146010
42. Slide the boot down and the the cable way up.Attachment 145997
43. Untape the top of the cable.
44. Feed 2 new wires through the cable way, I just slid them through. You may want to use different colors so you know what is ground if you make any more mods.
    Attachment 145998Attachment 145999
45. Crimp a 040-3 receptical on each wire, open both sides of the connector like before and insert them. Pin 4 is power and pin 10 is ground (opposite sides, but the same column)
    Attachment 145987
46. Put the clips back on.
47. Tape by the connector, and inside the mirror housing.
    Attachment 146007Attachment 146008
48. Run the wires behind the moving mechanism, and through a handy clip above the mechanism. ,I'm guessing it is for these.Attachment 146004Attachment 146005
49. Add them to the clip inside the housing.
    Attachment 146006
50. Rout them to the side, and cut to length.
51. Clip 090-3 receipticals to the wires, they at least fit on rexpeed mirros.
    Attachment 145992
52. Heat shrink the recepticals for safety.
    Attachment 145993
53. Attach them to the mirror tabs, it doesn't matter which way.
    Attachment 145994
54. Install the mirror.
55. Set the cableway so it barely peaks into the housing, and visually check the mirror clip.
56. Move the boot into place, and take it to the cable way, then put the cover on.
57. Install the mirror: Feed the cable in, then insert the pins.
58. Put the screws in and tighten them down.
59. Put the lower cover on.
60. Put the mirror cable through the cable bracket, and through the plastic.
    Attachment 146002
61. Plug it in.
    Attachment 146003
62. Re-stick the pastic to the door.
63. Attach the electrical connector and lock cables to the door card.
64. Slide the card over the top.
65. Press down around it to secure the clips.
66. Put the 3 screws in, then the plastic rivet, and install the handle.
67. Cut the wire in the Footwell to length, and Crimp on a 090-3 Receptical.
    Attachment 146000
68. Simply slide the wire into the back of the connector, Pin 8.
    Attachment 148442
69. Connect the connectors in the footwell
    Attachment 145991
70. Reinstall the footwell cover, and install the relay under the hood.
71. In the fuse box under the hood install the relay
    Attachment 145904
72. Connect the batter and enjoy.

I think this should cover it pretty well, if you guys have any questions let me know.

Good write up for the non keyless entry FR-S. Thank you for taking what I started with on my 10 series and making it easy for everyone else.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

might be a stupid question, but could i just buy the door wiring harness from the models equipped with the heated mirrors and just replace the one in my door right now? it seems that the heated mirror wiring goes all the way to the harness already and just needs connecting?

You might be able to find a junk yard harness, but it seemed like more work to pull it through. You might even need to remove the door, when I was looking at the best way to run the wire I concluded that the harness is installed in the footwell, going outside before the door gets put on.

Thanks for the great DIY! I'm planning to install my heated Rexpeed mirrors this weekend and I haven't had a look at the passenger side yet, but I assume the process for adding the wiring is the same or at least very similar?