DIY - Tire Rack
 

DIY - Tire Rack
 

DIY - TIRE RACK

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Tools Used:

• Miter Saw
• Speed Square
• Level
• Impact Driver
• Variable Speed Drill
• T20 Star Bit
• 5/16” Hex Nut Driver
• 7/64” Pilot w/ 3/8” Countersink Bit
• 7/64” x 6” Drill Bit
• 5/16“ Drill Bit
• Kreg Pocket Hole Jig Kit
• 12” Clamps

Materials List:

• 3 each of 2”x4”x8’ Premium Pine Boards
• 6 each of 3-5/8“ Ledger Board Fasteners (Lag Bolts)
• 10 x 3” Exterior Wood Screws
• 8 x 2-1/2” Cabinet Screws

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Some of the tools and hardware

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I had some left over fasteners and wood screws from another project

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The cabinet screws for the pocket holes


Assembly Instructions:

• This tire rack is for the OEM sized tires. I used a total of three 2”x4”x8’ boards. If you are
  running 18” or larger diameter, and/or wider width wheels, then you will need to increase the
  length of the boards and will probably need a fourth 2”x4”x8’ board. In the schematic, I added
  a diagram going back to the algebra days. Yeah, we all remember a 45-degree right triangle.
  
  

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• If you plan your cuts carefully and don’t make any mistakes you can get two 36” and one
  22-3/8” out of one board, the two 31-5/8” with a 45-degree cuts and the other 22-3/8” section
  out of the second board. That leaves a 39” and the remaining 36” cut out of the third board.
• 
  
• Before beginning the cuts, trim off a sliver from one end of each board to make sure there is a
  nice clean edge.
  
  
• Measure twice and cut all boards to length.
  
  
• I also trimmed flush the bottom of the diagonal braces for aesthetics and also so I wouldn’t hit
  my head on the sharp corners and have my neighbors hear me cuss up a storm. It wouldn’t be
  the first time, but it also won’t be because of the tire rack.
  
  
• Next, use the Kreg pocket-hole jig to drill two holes in each of the horizontal boards. I love this
  tool and use it for various projects. Set the depth of the jig and drill bit collar according to the
  manual for 1-1/2” thickness and a 2-1/2” cabinet screw. If you don’t have a pocket-hole jig,
  then you can insert the screws from the outside boards. Substitute a 4” wood screw for the
  2-1/2” cabinet screw where appropriate. Just predrill first and attach the diagonal braces last.
  If you have a countersink bit, use that too, as it will insure that all your screw heads sit flush
  and also that the diagonal braces are flush with the extension boards.
  
  
• To assemble the boards, it isn’t necessary to use wood glue, but if you want to increase the
  strength of the tire rack, then go for it. If you have a speed square, use this to align the
  diagonal 45-degree braces when you attach to the 22-3/8” boards that make up the bottom of
  the rack that extend from the wall. Predrill the 3 holes with the countersink pilot bit at the
  bottom of each diagonal brace. Offset the holes so that they were not on the same parallel
  plane as the board.
  
  
• Next, clamp the boards together and re-drill the pilot holes with a longer 7/64” drill bit to a
  depth of 2-1/2”. This is to prevent splitting the wood. Then, drive in the 3” wood screws into
  the predrilled holes.
  
  
• Once you have your two diagonal braces attached to the extension boards, place them on the
  ground back to back to form a large triangle. Make sure that the top and bottom edges meet
  and there aren’t any gaps.
  
  
• Now, you will attach the side frames to the rear bottom horizontal board that goes against the
  wall. Grab either side frame and attach first one end to the horizontal board and then attach
  the other side frame using 2-1/2” cabinet screws inserted into the pocket holes. The pocket
  hole jig really makes attaching the boards a breeze. Use your speed square to make sure the
  horizontal boards are at 90-degrees to the side frames.
  
  
• Next attach the top horizontal board to the top of the diagonal braces. Again, using 2-1/2”
  cabinet screws inserted into the pocket holes. Don’t forget your speed square.
  
  
• Now, you will attach the front angled horizontal board that the wheels rest on. This board is
  also at a 45-degree angle. Yep, you guessed it, use 2-1/2” cabinet screws inserted into the
  pocket holes.
  
  
• Don’t attach the rear angled board the wheels rest on until you mount the rack to the wall.
  You will not have enough room to drive the fasteners into the wall if you attach this board.
  
  
• At this point, the tire rack is pretty much assembled and it will be very sturdy.
  
  
• One last step before installing the rack is to measure and mark 4-3/4” from the back of the rack
  along the bottom boards that extend from the rear of the rack. Then, with your speed square
  draw a 45-degree line starting at this mark. This is for when you install the rear angled board
  that the wheels rest on.

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Installation instructions:

• First, find your center wall stud and place a mark on the wall. Hopefully, you can span 3 studs
  to distribute the load. If not, and only have 2 wall studs to work with, you can still follow the
  instructions, but with a slight modification.
  
  
• Next, find and mark the studs to the left and right of the center stud. For an 8’ ceiling,
  measure down from the ceiling 29” along your center wall stud and place a mark on the wall. If
  you have a taller ceiling, then place the mark where either you have enough head clearance,
  or at a comfortable, safe height.
  
  
• Next grab your level and draw a horizontal line at the 29” mark. This is the bottom of the tire
  rack.
  
  
• Using your level secure a short piece of scrap 2”x4” to the wall using two 3” wood screws, one
  on top of the other, so it doesn’t spin on you. I started the screws on this scrap board first
  before trying to mount it to the wall. The top of the scrap board will line up with the horizontal
  line you drew on the wall. This board will serve as a temporary rest for mounting the tire rack.
  
  
• At this point, you want to grab a buddy, significant other, or whoever to assist with the
  installation.
  
  
• Place the tire rack on top of the scrap board and using your center mark on the wall as a guide,
  predrill and then drive the ledger board fastener into the top board of the tire rack. The
  fasteners that I used say no predrilling required, but I found it easier to predrill.
  
  
• Again, check your level to make sure you are good to go. Then predrill and secure the bottom
  board to the wall with the fasteners.
  
  
• At this point, your partner can let go of the tire rack and hand you tools and hardware as
  needed.
  
  
• Predrill and drive the remaining fasteners.
  
  
• Don’t forget to install the other diagonal board that the tires rest on. You left this off when
  assembling so you would have enough room to drive the fasteners into the bottom of the
  rack.

Wow! Great job! Thanks for this.

That is really cool actually. Nice job!

I plan on painting it after I finish another overhead shelf in my garage. The walls need a fresh coat of durable paint too! But, I have too many projects, so it might be a while. Anyways, I'll post final pictures when I'm done.

so dumb

they are $100 jegs

Thanks for the advice. :thumbup: I now have a paint scheme for my custom built tire rack that matches all my custom made shelves in my garage.


:cheers:

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I'm not so sure I would trust the shear strength of the pocket screws considering the amount of leverage on the top ones. Maybe just run a larger lag bolt from the outside. I like the idea though!

Good idea. When I built the shelves, I added extra screws from the outside along with the pocket holes. Perhaps I'll go back and add them to the rack.

Look ma, a link.... I can do it too. :D

http://www.menards.com/main/building...19922370754321

I know you'll need a few but in the end I'm sure it's WAYYYYYY less than $100.

OP, way to go. It looks awesome. I would have no worries of the sheer strength of the screws for the 120lbs that are up there. I would have turned the top board around so that the screws were going in to the meatier part of the 2x4 instead of the end though.

Thanks for the link. Tirerack.com has a similar rack and I considered it for a while. I just didn't like the sharp metal corners. With my low garage ceiling, I felt for sure that I would hit my head on it and it would just piss me off. So, I decided to be creative and build my own while enjoying a nice fall day outside.