Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB
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Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/index.php)
-   Engine, Exhaust, Transmission (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=8)
-   -   2017 engine vs 2013 engine (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112769)

DailyDriver86 11-09-2016 12:24 PM
2017 engine vs 2013 engine
 
Deciding whether I want to spend double the amount for a new 17 brz vs a slightly used 13' brz. How much more reinforcement or durable is the new revised engine?

For example if I would see a longer lasting engine on the 17' with a FI kit in the future.

Somerandom18 11-09-2016 12:33 PM
All changes made to 2017MY including engine changes.

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58234f68...17MY_BRZ_1.pdf

Plus with a new car you'll know exactly how it will be handled during the break in period.

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk

Tcoat 11-09-2016 12:34 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDriver86 (Post 2793029)
Deciding whether I want to spend double the amount for a new 17 brz vs a slightly used 13' brz. How much more reinforcement or durable is the new revised engine?

For example if I would see a longer lasting engine on the 17' with a FI kit in the future.
We know it is beefed up a little but it isn't a massive change. Still a little early to try to say for the 17s. There have been very few issues with the 14s and up as well though. Going FI is going to increase the risk regardless of which year.

Mr.Impreza 11-09-2016 12:45 PM
You won't see a longer lasting engine with Forced Induction. You will be straining all the components in the car.

Only way you'll get a long lasting Forced Induction engine build is by investing a lot of money for supporting mods.

Unless you want to mickey mouse it like half the members on this forum and just make the car unreliable or blow your engine than go right ahead.

So I'll say 2013. The difference in cost can be used for your future plans if you decide on that route.

go_a_way1 11-09-2016 12:58 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Impreza (Post 2793054)
You won't see a longer lasting engine with Forced Induction. You will be straining all the components in the car.

Only way you'll get a long lasting Forced Induction engine build is by investing a lot of money for supporting mods.

Unless you want to mickey mouse it like half the members on this forum and just make the car unreliable or blow your engine than go right ahead.

So I'll say 2013. The difference in cost can be used for your future plans if you decide on that route.
^ THIS

Tcoat 11-09-2016 01:00 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Impreza (Post 2793054)
You won't see a longer lasting engine with Forced Induction. You will be straining all the components in the car.

We don't know this yet. They did reinforce it after all so it could last "longer".
Don't disagree with the rest though.

DailyDriver86 11-09-2016 01:28 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Impreza (Post 2793054)
Unless you want to mickey mouse it like half the members on this forum and just make the car unreliable or blow your engine than go right ahead.
What do you mean "just make the car unreliable"? Throwing a known kit for example JRSC or Edelbrock make the car unreliable? I've yet to hear anyone blow their engine from their CARB tune yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Impreza (Post 2793054)

So I'll say 2013. The difference in cost can be used for your future plans if you decide on that route.
this is a good point

Tcoat 11-09-2016 01:31 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDriver86 (Post 2793088)
What do you mean "just make the car unreliable"? Throwing a known kit for example JRSC or Edelbrock make the car unreliable? I've yet to hear anyone blow their engine from their CARB tune yet.



this is a good point
"Unreliable" can mean more than just a blown engine. Any modification to a car increases the risk of problems. It does not mean you will have problems just that the risk is greater. You have to be willing to accept that greater risk.

Yardjass 11-09-2016 02:04 PM
I would get a used one. The depreciation on these is just too large to ignore. Not only can you get a perfectly good, like new car if you look hard enough, you are going to be eating that depreciation yourself if you buy new and ever decide to sell it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Somerandom18 (Post 2793040)
Plus with a new car you'll know exactly how it will be handled during the break in period.

You mean the break in procedures that are completed by the OEM before the vehicle leaves the factory?

wbradley 11-09-2016 04:53 PM
Not worth paying double for IMHO unless you really want the newer model or only want to buy new.

Tcoat 11-09-2016 05:01 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yardjass (Post 2793111)
I would get a used one. The depreciation on these is just too large to ignore. Not only can you get a perfectly good, like new car if you look hard enough, you are going to be eating that depreciation yourself if you buy new and ever decide to sell it.





You mean the break in procedures that are completed by the OEM before the vehicle leaves the factory?
I find it funny where everybody always say "buy a used one and let somebody else pay depreciation"


Who the hell is supposed to be buying them new so that there are used ones???????




What happened to your other Hyper Blue one anyway there Daily?

ryoma 11-09-2016 05:02 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yardjass (Post 2793111)

You mean the break in procedures that are completed by the OEM before the vehicle leaves the factory?
this is a very controversial subject, though I do like the video that Engineering Explained did about it:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oklqJnm7_TY"]5 Things You Should Never Do In A Brand New Car - YouTube[/ame]

Phantobe 11-09-2016 05:04 PM
I would get a 14' or 15', wouldn't buy the first model year.

I read somewhere, toyota changed the mfg for the rocker arms which has been an known issue blowing through the valve cover. Maybe someone can confirm =P

ryoma 11-09-2016 05:06 PM
also, I personally would recommend a MY15+. there are slight cosmetic changes that make the car (BRZ at least) look more refined. for example, the key fob and shark fin antenna (maybe the fake carbon fiber dash panels too if that's your thing).


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