DIY - How to install INNER TIE RODS
 

I've noticed there are no threads on how to install Inner Tie Rods, and there are many people asking for one (including me up until a few days ago), so here is my little contribution.

The most likely scenario is that you want to replace your stock inner tie rods for Megan Racing inner tie rods, which have a spacer built in them which allows for a little extra steering angle (less than I thought to be honest). At least that's why I did it.

Tools you will need:
- Jack
- Jackstands
- 19mm wrench
- Adjustable wrench (or some open wrench bigger than 19mm)
- Various sizes of flat screwdrivers
- Needle nose pliers
- WD40
- Hammer
- Zip ties
- and the most important, if you don't want this to be way more difficult than it needs to be... an inner tie rod removal tool.

These tools are made in several sizes, and because Megan Racing's inner tie rods are a bit thicker than the standard ones, most tool brands won't fit.

Now, I didn't wanna pay 100 bucks for a tool I was going to use once, so I tried 'Tool rentals' or 'Loaner tools' from various hardware store chains. Here are my findings:

- The brand they rent out at AutoZone doesn't fit (none of the 3 sizes does).
- The brand they rent out at O'Reillys doesn't fit (same)
- The brand they rent out at Pep Boys doesn't fit (same)
- The brand they rent out at Advance Auto Parts (almost) DOES FIT

It is just wide enough on the stem to fit through, but the smallest of the 3 sizes is still too big to grab on perfectly. However, using some cardboard and a quarter, like I'll show later, you can make it work.
Attachment 145724

So on to the job.

- Jack up your car, put it on jackstands, and take of your front wheels

- Using a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers, remove the pin preventing the nut holding the outer tie rod to the knuckle from spinning.
Attachment 145715
Attachment 145718

- Using a 19mm wrench, remove the nut, and put it back on upside down until it sits flush with the top of the bolt.
Attachment 145712

- Spray some WD40 on the base of the bolt, and hammer it out.

- Use a marker to mark up how far in the outer tie rods are screwed into the inner tie rods.
Attachment 145710

- Using an open 19mm wrench, losen the locking nut.

- Unscrew the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod, and remove the locking nut too.
Attachment 145717

- Using the needle nose pliers, remove the metal clamp holding the outermost end of the dust boot.

- Using a small screwdriver, lift up the dust boot and spray some WD40.
Attachment 145720

- Get under the car, find the metal clamp holding the other end of the dust boot, and losen it prying it with a screwdriver. It is not reusable, so don't be afraid to bend it.
Attachment 145716

- Remove the dust boot
Attachment 145714

- Place your inner tie rod removal tool into the inner tie rod, and use a breaker bar to losen it. At this point, you might want to put some cardboard between the sway bar brackets and the tool so that it stays centered, and a quarter or something flat inside the tool to make it fit the tie rod better.
Attachment 145719
Attachment 145713

- Once losened, unscrew the inner tie rod completely, and compare lenghts with the new one to mark up how far to screw in the outer tie rod.
Attachment 145721

- Revert all the steps to replace the new inner tie rods.

- Before putting the dust boot back in, put a zip tie around the crest where the metal clamp used to be, so that you don't have to struggle doing it under the car.
Attachment 145722

- Torque everything to spec, and enjoy your extra 45 degrees of steering wheel steering angle! (I didn't measure the steering angle difference on the wheels)

BEFORE:
Attachment 145711

AFTER:
Attachment 145709

Hey - how much smaller is the turning circle now? I'm floored that my Forester has a smaller circle than my twin...

I haven't measured it to be honest. I did take pics of the wheels turned all the way before and after, but of course i didn't take them from exactly the same angle so they're not very revealing.

All i can say is, to the naked eye i expected to see more results, but i do find it easier getting into my narrow garage from my narrow alley now :lol: and hopefully it'll make a difference when drifting (the only reason i did all of this)

Cool write up, looking forward to hearing if this helps out at all with drifting.

Very nice!

Also a fun fact- it can be done without removing the outer tie rod from the knuckle. Unthread the inner from the outer tie rod first, then remove inner tie rod from steering rack. Then transfer the boot over and install the new inner tie rod to the rack, then screw the inner tie rod into the outer rod end. Done.

That's the way I did it. Either way works though. I just didn't have a ball joint separator lol

I guess that works too!

I didn't have a ball joint separator either, but i had a HAMMER :bellyroll: Jeremy Clarkson would approve this message

Thanks, I used your method without removing the outer tie rod and it worked great!


I also found another fun fact, if you turn the steering wheel full lock each way it pushes the inner rod out and makes removing the inner rod easy with the use of a spanner, no tie rod removal tool required!


:burnrubber:

Nice. i will have to keep that in mind when i do mine soon.

My inner tie rod end was bent from the previous owner.
I was able to remove it by turning the steering wheel all the way and it was accessible with a large wrench.
I also did not need to remove the outer tie rod end.

Spec is 76 ft·lbf for the inner tie rod end those wondering. Locktite is not needed according to the manual.

The steering gear is damaged if axial torque is applied to the rack. It must be supported when loosening or tightening the inner ends. https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...045EQ00OX.html


https://i.imgur.com/uTDLaSF.jpg