Why fixing your car is fun
 

Because you get to uncover even bigger problems than you thought possible! HURRAY!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...X/IMG_4238.jpg

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Yes yes, I know the front of my engine is messy beyond belief. This project was 3 fold: Replace the timing belt, replace the front crankshaft seal (the coolant is just from me accidentally kicking the pan I drained it into, got everywhere. Leaks oil out the front bad like.) and reset my crank timing because it apparently slipped, which is what's been keeping the car from being on the road now for almost a year (been busy and broke). Idled fine, but damned if it would accelerate. The crank timing pulley was off its notch, at TDC, by about 0.75 of an inch. ANNYYWHOO.

Well behold, the reason for the slippage! The pulley key broke, snap in half, and took a chunk of metal from the crankshaft, with it! You can still see a piece of the key stuck in the crank pulley. :cry: :cry:

Basically I can't see putting the pulley back on as doing any good. It'll just slip again as long as it can't settle properly on the key. I was thinking maybe torquing down the crank bolt to astronomical amounts?

Any ideas? The AE86 would be much appreciated for your input.

yikes. it's hard to tell from the pictures, but is there any way you could get a new key and make it work with what's there??

it would suck to have to replace the crank. :(

If it comes down to replacing the crank then the economical thing to do would be just to source a JDM MR-2 16v and put that in there. Cranks aren't cheap, and the 4A-GE's is no different (esp. since its forged, not cast).

How would I put a new key on there? From the looks of it the key is a literal part of the crankshaft. You mean like...dremmel down the remaining stub then somehow weld a new key on? If that's possible, its not a skill thats down my alley. I'm a shade-tree mechanic at best, and can do some things most people would consider 'hard'. But that type of work I have no experience with.

Keys should be just pressed into a slot that is milled on the journal/shaft to a specific size for it. Funny thing is (but probably not for you at the moment), the purpose of a key is to break first as an inexpensive fix.

Edit: What about a FWD GT-S's motor, they had a small-port 4AGE right? So did the 4WD Corolla wagons I believe. Or do they not like being turned to the proper orientation?

Weld it, but just make sure its perfectly aligned or it may vibrate, is it hard to find a 4ag on your area?

Nah, there's an MR-2 in a pull-a-part yard about 2 miles away. Its 4A-GE doesn't look much better than mine, but I have been meaning to go down there with a compression checker to see if it at least checks out ok...always nice to have a spare 4A-GE. Never welded before though, so dunno how good I'll be able to do that. Will the MR-2 crank pulley work on the AE86? Something tells me it won't...cause its technically a FWD crank pulley. Are you suggesting taking the key off another 4A-GE and welding that on? Or just slapping another 4A in my car?

@dimman: Yeah, the AE92's came with the bigports, AWD wagons didn't come with a 4A-GE though. AE92 GT-S' are becoming just as hard to find as the AE86, at least around here. MR-2's are much more common in yards. You can use a 4A-GE out of the MR-2 or AE92, but you have to replace certain parts. Its not a big deal, just things like RWD water pump, RWD alt/alt bracket (don't need PS/AC, since I took those off), you have to use the intake/exhaust manifold's from the RWD 4A-GE you're taking out....errr, RWD flywheel...and I'm pretty damned sure you use the RWD crank pulley (hur hur, lucky me), probably a few other things I'm forgetting...RWD dizzy I think...thermostat housing, maybe.

The only real thing thats got me worried is that when the key snapped, it took a chunk of metal of the crankshaft, with it. It looks like where that divot in the shaft is, is where part of the key used to be. Replacing the pulley and the key is fine for me, but I'm left wondering if it'll do any good with the shaft damaged like that.

If you ask me its time for a rebuild, cuz you'll need to change alot of seals anyways get a used crank on club4ag member and a light weight crank pully.

Eh-heh....yes, the undeniable truth I've been trying to put off for far too long...I knew that's what it needed...just needed someone else to say "rebuild it".

Hookay, think what Imma do is go down to the pull-a-part with a compression checker and take a closer look at that 4A. Its dirty, but that doesn't mean much. If the compression checks out, I'd say its worth the $150 gamble...if not...ugh, the pains of being poor.

It sucks going an entire spring/summer/autumn cycle without your 8-6 drivable. :cry:

My plan, if it came to this, was to find a way to get another 4A-GE in there cheaply to get it at least driving, and take the car's original 4A-GE, and build it slowly, exactly how I want it. ~140hp light tune street friendly, plenty of power for the 8-6, but still reliable, using the cars original heart. I'm too damned sentimental for my own good.

I want to learn about fixin my car and so fourth. :( Don't know anything about the innards of my car. *embarrassed*

HOWEVER. I do know I screwed up my suspension a bit.. or shock-absorber thingy. :>

I think you are down to either rebuild motor or crush vehicle into a cube...

:slap:

Its easy enough to get started learning. Begin with doing basic maintenance yourself, like oil changes, spark plugs/wires, air filter, then change to slightly more complex maintenance, like brake pads,wheel bearings, etc. (honestly pads are easier than some oil changes, NOT kidding), and continue to go down in difficulty. You'll slowly build up your confidence and your skill with basic tools. How far you can go is really dependent on how much you wish to learn, and the tools / work environment accessible. If you do decide to start at least get a Haynes/Chilton manual. They're good for the general stuff, and making sure you do things right when you're first learning. Honestly though I'd just go ahead and get the FSM. Worth more than its weight in gold.

Again, I'm no master mechanic. I've done a few engine swaps (KA24E -> KA24DE, one example), but never a rebuild. This would be my first. Again, I think I'm going to go with a simple swap to get the car up and running in factory form, and take this first rebuild of mine slowly, so I can make sure I do it right / learn properly, and build it exactly the way I want (no shortcuts, and no super cheapo parts).

yeah, pretty much what Oldskooltoys said.

i *am* a master mechanic (ASE certified since 2007), but back when i was in high school, i could barely change oil. as you start to collect tools, for some things you can go cheap, but for certain items i would spend the extra money and get NICE tools. ratchets are one place where extra money is well-placed. torque wrenches are another. get 6 point sockets instead of 12.

if you'd like, i could make a more comprehensive list of what's useful when starting out. :)

I was late in the game also, but I got the basics from my dad I use to change his oil. College years stoped cant even oil change on the apt., but I'm a reader first so I started reading FSM then apply that on my car, thats why now I collected alot of FSM.

Here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=507

tuning & rebuilding learned that from friends, so it help when you have friends who already have experience on what your trying to do. So advice go to meets its not just a place to show off your car its also a great way to be friends or know people who can help you.

That sucks OST!


:paddle::sm3:

+1... collecting tools seems to be an ongoing thing! Nice tools are one thing but then there are those specialty tools. It seems that I always have to make a trip to Sears.

As other mentioned, I definitely recommend a shop manual and the right tools. Start with the basic maintenance as a starting point.

Having an extra pair of hands is a plus and that usually works by offering some pizza n brew! :happy0180: