Car doesn't start, multiple "clicking" when trying to start
 

I've had this issue about three times now where I'll jump into my BRZ Limited with push start, press clutch, push "start" to turn the car on but then the car will just have one "click" then the lights are off. I'll try to go into accessory mode by pressing "start" without the clutch and nothing happens. The car seemingly dies.

I'll wait a while, clutch in, push start and hold and I can hear the "clicking" noise multiple times but nothing happens. My battery voltmeter (plugged into center console) shows 7V. After this, I can go into accessory mode, the nav screen pops up but still can't turn the car on.

The first time this happened about 2 months ago, I thought it was my battery. However I replaced it about a year ago. As I was trying to jump it, I noticed the positive terminal just lifted off the battery nub, so I tightened it and that "fixed" the problem that time. I was able to start the car afterwards, I thought that that was the issue.

The second time happened a few weeks ago but I just sat in the car, trying to start it a few times, but then just stopped for about a minute to think to myself and then it started up with no issues. Weird.

The third time was today in the morning after the car sat overnight (don't remember the other two instances). I waited a minute again but nothing so I jumped out and was going to jump start it. I paid attention to the terminals on the battery and they were all tight. I didn't jump start it, but all I did was remove the negative terminal, waited 5 seconds, then reconnected it. Then I was able to start the car up.

ANy ideas on where I can start diagnosing this? I don't believe it's because of a dead battery from a draw overnight since I was able to start it today just by removing and reconnecting the negative terminal, that couldn't have reset and given it enough life to start the engine right?

Classic signs of a dead battery.

Replacing the battery should fix the issue

I guess I can bring it in to have them replace it for free before digging into my car's systems any further.

have them replace the battery for free if you are able to. have you checked the water levels on your current battery (if you replaced it with the OEM battery)? how clean are your terminals?

Don't just replace the battery until you have it load tested. Dropping to 7 Volts when cranking is a problem. The battery may be able to take a surface charge but is failing to take a deep charge which would indicate a bad battery.

Check your battery terminals first, one that is loose can cause a single click, there should be no corrosion, if there is, clean it up and tighten the terminals down. There can be no slack or looseness in the terminals. Also, if you have aftermarket terminals- especially the lead thick ones that are painted black and red- you can have connection issues because that paint is not conductive.

A single hard click is either a bad battery terminal connection (which needs to be fixed because it'll damage your alternator in time) or more likely a bad starter.

Many clicks usually means that the battery is either weak and has low CCA, or is partially discharged and lacks the voltage to start the engine.

Yep, like @guybo suggested, have your battery load tested.

Meanwhile, you may consider putting the battery on a charger for a long, slow charge.

Be aware, if a battery has been run down, the alternator will NOT usually bring it back up to speed. The alternator will only replace the electrons that are consumed under normal operation.

Ref: http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm


humfrz

There is a pattern here.
Buy one of these:


https://www.etrailer.com/static/imag...00254_1000.jpg

so I really didn't buy this until last night but after using it, i no longer have this RPM dip issue when i'm using the AC or when I use both window switches at the same time. Car drives smoother as well (not sure if this is from the ECU relearning since I removed the battery to clean the posts and the cable).

Last week my car had issues cranking again in the morning after being outside in 40F weather and then another incident after it died all of a sudden after pulling out of my neighborhood. Fortunately I had a portable jump start kit with me.

But yeah, this battery terminal cleaner seems like the real deal. Wonder if there's more to it than just cleaning the posts since there was no visbile corrosion.

The corrosion is almost invisible but it is there. Don't go nuts with the though either though or both the clamp and the post will just get smaller until it is hard to get a good connection.

So I just got my car back from the dealer after a no start condition on Sunday night. Somehow the Fuel Pump ECU just went out. Anyone have this ECU go out? They had to fly in the part from the west coast apparently. Seems like a rare part failure.

The fuel pump has it's own ECU? Never heard that before. Didn't you just have the fuel pump swapped last month?

Curious what your no start condition was like? Did you hear any clicking?

A no start with clicking is a low battery/poor connection about 98% of the time. The clicking is the starter motor solenoid trying to engage the starter motor but there just isn't enough juice to run the starter motor. He had no fuel flow because of the fuel pump. Not the same as yours.

Good hint.

Then you might have to take the bolt out and cut a slice off of the clamp.

If you grind them down too much, Bubba says just to beat on the top of the post and clamp with a ball peen hammer ........ :paddle:



humfrz