Thank you for an epic reply to a very vague question :cheers:

Hmm from my experience with coilover a lower drop needs compensation to balance stiffness and performance. I'm currently on Tein street flex and I gotta say ride quality is like oem and my front fender closed the gap to my tires. However my rear is a whole finger higher fender to tire. I kind of do not like this for the looks but I really appreciate ride quality since I already tried Megan lowering spring and cheap coilover.

My next project will be getting ST XTA which I hear is about equivalent to KW V2 and the price is much cheaper. Also there are 2 separate springs one for high speed the other for lower speed which is ideal for spirited driving and daily cruise to work or to hang out. I feel the KW/ST will meet my need since it can drop lower than my Tein but can compensate for bad ride by having 2 springs on each shock. Maybe you should look into KW or ST XTA

None related. It's nice reading some of these comments and getting to know the market a bit better

Why can't you drop your rear another 1/2 inch to even it up? Maxed out? Might consider an LCA like Stance's that offers a static drop without changing coil length length. They are kind of a shallow U shape do the mounting point for the damper is below the knuckle. There are other brands on the market also

Do you have a Swiss ex-watchmaker available to machine by hand all the necessary components?

CNC just doesn't have the same results as a true craftsman.

;)

You misunderstand what those are for. The small spring is very soft, maybe 50-60 lbs to fully compress it, it exists solely to keep the main spring in place when the suspension is unloaded, when on the ground that spring will be fully compressed.

That doesn't mean you shouldn't get them, it will likely do a pretty good job from what I hear. But, the more you know.

Here's there marketing material:
http://i.imgur.com/TxcgMDH.jpg


And here's a picture of what it will look like when sitting on the ground (this is a KW setup):
http://i.imgur.com/RI5uKQol.jpg?1

Thanks for pointing it out. It's still helpful for my plans to flush my fender with the tire, helps it not go lower under load

Que? The rear has more threads/room than the front, at least on mine when I had street flex. Also now have RCE T2's (based on KWs) and don't see a lot more drop-ability than the Teins I had. You should have room to remove the gap on your Teins as they are...

Ah, when it comes down to CNC we do some odd things.
One reason why not many company offer CNC seals is because it is a VERY specialist field.

When a piece of polyurethane is in your hand, it is a solid.
However, when it is being spun in the CNC, it is expand because it isn't really solid.

So unless one know how to calculate the expansion rate for the specific seal you are making, you end result is all going to be wrong even if the program you put into CNC was correct.

We might not build Swiss watch, but I doubt any of those craftsman will have to calculate expansion rate like we can and have to. :w00t:

Jerrick

Well I tried to lower hem more but they won't move and I went to auto shop they also said it won't go much lower neither

It was used on a Pike Peak Ford RS200.
The suspension was design and made by our in house technical partner Black Art Design (BAD), who also engineered and produce our GT1 coilovers.

http://www.meisterr.co.uk/Pics/Post/BAD/BAD1.jpg http://www.meisterr.co.uk/Pics/Post/BAD/BAD2.jpg

This Ford RS200 driven by Mark Rennison finished 4th place in the Unlimited Class at Pike Peak 2013.
The fastest privateer team, finishing behind 3 factory works team.
With the final time of 9:46.634, it is also one of 8 cars in the world to reach the top in under 10 minutes (Call the 9 Minutes Club) in 2013.

The 5th damper was used in the middle.
From my understanding, it basically works like an infinitely adjustable anti-roll bar.

I haven't got the full details of the suspension system as I only briefly over look the car's suspension, but it is certainly something that BAD can produce if necessary.
And I know the system works looking at the result the car posted. :party0030:

Jerrick

Hmmm odd - I've attached a pic of what the Teins look like lowered/leveled to max, the fronts should max out first and the rears should have more threads (or so I thought!). You can see on the rears where I circled, if you see threads there, you can lower. The fronts are an example of where you have no more room to lower (you can't see threads). If you see threads on your rear, you should be able to loosen the lower collar, move it up and then rotate the body to lower the car.

Yeah my front and rear looks like that picture but the rear won't go lower

Bad threads maybe?

Or the body bottomed out in the base/mount/bracket

Idk but either way I still want to try out those st xta looks like they'll do a nice job😎