Originally Posted by Kido1986 (Post 919327)

Modifications

This class has limited modifications. You can modify/add:

*Any exhaust behind the last Catalytic converter (Aka you can add an Catback or Axleback exhaust). It must be full length, reach the rear bumper
*Any drop-in filter (you cannot change the intake or modify the airbox or intake tube)
*Any shocks/struts that mount up as stock replacements (though you can currently have external reservoirs).
Change, replace or remove ONE sway bar. One of the two bars must remain *OEM and attached though it is your choice of which one to modify (though a front bar is the only one that makes sense for this car)
*OEM Crash/Camber Bolts. These allow you to add a small amount of front camber. Some cars vary in the amount of camber you can gain. I reached -1.4 while some people could not pass -0.8 and others saw -1.5. Get an alignment after install!. This is likely to throw the Toe off in your front end. Large tire wear, pulling to one side or poor handling can occur from this. OEM part numbers are as follows:
Toyota: SU003-02818
Subaru: 901000394
*Any brake pad you want
*Any fluids you want (brake, oil, coolant, transmission, differential)
*Stock sized wheels within 6mm offset. This means 17x7 with an offset between +42 and +54. Spacers to count for offset reduction. Example, with a +48 offset wheel (such as stock), you can throw on a 5mm spacer (never use bigger than 5mm on our stock studs!) and have an effective offset of +43 and be legal but you cannot use a +42 wheel and use a 3mm spacer. That would equal +39 which is too low of an offset.
*Tires. This is the biggie. You can use a 140 treadwear or higher tire in this class. This only rules out RCompound tires.

Originally Posted by warmwetness (Post 2748852)

Anybody encounter any problems running the white line bolts for a while? My goal is a mostly DD with a couple autox events a year. If anybody can recommend whether to use white line or the OEM bolts and why, I would be super greatful. I recently installed TRD springs and want a little more camber up front for a little more response.

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Originally Posted by Toyarzee (Post 2748847)

Been a little while, but if i recall correctly, you can take the spl/whiteline lobed camber bolts and install in the top strut mount, and then take the 14 mm OEM bolt from the top and switch with the 16 mm OEM bolt in the bottom for additional wiggle room, you can get somewhere between 1.5 to 1.9* ish camber.

Dont remember which one individually will net you more or less though sry

Originally Posted by jarnojvv (Post 2749144)

Nope, the bottom bolt is 14mm to begin with.

Top crash bolts yielded L0.8 / 1.4R on my car.

Originally Posted by Toyarzee (Post 2749362)

Meh, maybe its the other way around. West end alignment helped with the setup... either way, one set of SPL and on trd lowering springs netted me -1.9 front and -2.0 rear. Tracking regularly with nt01s on 17x9s with no issues. But if autox is your thing and they arent allowed in your class, then maybe best to get crash bolts anyway...

Originally Posted by warmwetness (Post 2749546)

I'd like to achieve more (negative) camber in the front wheels, than the rear. Is this feasible with either OEM or white line bolts up front? Or do I have to modify the rear? After my spring install my rear camber is noticeably more negative than the front. But if either bolts yield me more (negative) camber in the front than rear, I will consider the OEM bolts. I'm sure this setup should be common too, on this forum.

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Originally Posted by Cartman (Post 2749773)

Get the SPC camber bolt, which goes in the bottom hole, and move the bottom bolt to the top hole, it gave me -2.4 degrees of camber.