I really dont know what to do
 

no clue at this point, i have too much anger

my car was making tapping noise @ idle or going down hill.

i took car in June 2016

i got my car 1.5 weeks ago

short block replaced warranty

i drive the car out of the dealership, CEL comes up. Car downshift rough

I take car back in, they replace o2 sensor

i pick up the car next day, i drive it out, CEL comes up back up i drive it back in

replace crankshaft sensor with this code listed on warranty receipt : P219A

I drive car home, no CEL(last week)

today I drive it(I let it sit in parking for couple of days as im not wasting my time and risking CEL while driving to work or events)

Right now CEL comes back on AFTER 15~miles of driving(rough downshift which feels like the same when previous CEL was on)

Tomorrow is sunday, website says they are open. I will drive in.

I need my car by 2nd week of September as I will be moving to a nearby state. I need a reliable car and not a car that keeps getting CEL.


Any advice? I wish I never brought the car in for the tapping noise(they said it was too much silicon build up and the oil was picking it up @ idle).

Car was running 12+ hours a day perfectly except for tap noise @ idle and now I can barely have it run for half an hour.



pls help :((

unfortunately I doubt there is much you can do aside from taking it back to the dealership to get the problems fixed under warranty. how old is your car and did you buy it from the same dealership? if you recently bought the car, maybe you can talk to the dealership about it. but the good thing is that you still have warranty.

another thing you can do (if you don't mind the travel distance) is to leave the car with the dealership and tell them to do an extensive road test to make sure that there are no problems when you pick the car back up. the paperwork from previous warranty repairs will probably be enough for them to know your concerns, but be sure to note that with your service tech. tell them your situation and see if they can lend you a loaner car for your move. then pick up the car later on when they are 100% there are no more problems.

I believe i got this car at or around last week of September 2013 from Colorado, this dealer i am taking it to is in NYC

I have a grave feeling they just clearing codes till my warranty is up

Know it is a pain in the butt but is there another dealer you can take it to?
I highly doubt they are just trying to run the warranty out since they have little to gain from that. Probably just a low ability shop with techs that have no clue how to work on a boxer engine.

I only take it to dealers I know a mechanic at LOL I know that may not be possible for you, but I have the exact same mindset with my vehicles. Worse possible outcome ever! I even worry about getting tires changed cause im scared theyre gonna burn my clutch up.

^ +1. mechanics don't require any school or stuff like that (The bigger dealers and ones with money for Subaru will usually send off a couple of the smarter guys to specialty training). They do a good bit of in house training with maybe ONE guy that is a certified master tech. Had a dealer have to call they head Mazda tech in California one time because of a stuck EGR valve... and that was the biggest Mazda dealer in the capital city of Florida... Cars are weird and shops can be cheap. Find a bigger dealer and fast.

-If the problem started before the end of the warranty period and has been worked on then I would ASSUME it would still be covered after this month when the period has ended.

Make some lemonade with that Lemon.

How many miles on your car ..??

Did you buy it new .. ??

Usually, I would try to have things fixed, however, in this case I would be tempted to trade it in on another car.


:(


humfrz

replace crankshaft sensor with this code listed on warranty receipt : P219A


That does not make sense P219A is air fuel ration imbalance ie a fuelling problem, no idea why they would replace crank sensor.


If they have already replaced Front 02 sensor then next one you would go for would be MAF sensor.


that code can be caused by dirty or faulty MAF sensor (oiled air filters often the culprit)


Or stuffed front 02 sensor or exhaust or intake leaks.

Makes sense, if this doesn't work because their tech is incompetent than maybe try Subaru since they're essentially the same car, Subaru may be more knowledgeable about the boxer engine

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

It always makes me wonder when I see this.

A bad technician will see an O2 sensor code then replace the O2 sensor. An O2 sensor code doesn't mean there's a prob with the O2 sensor it means that the O2 sensor doesn't like what it sees. The problem that caused the condition threw the O2 sensor code needs to be repaired, not the dumb device that saw the problem- the O2 sensor was doing its job. Usually that's what happens when an O2 sensor gets replaced.

Maybe the O2 sensor really did need to be changed, I don't know, but after reading about the issues you're having, I'd go to a different garage because I have the suspicion that the garage you went to sucks. To diagnose a problem, the worst thing a tech can do (and the most expensive) is to throw parts at the problem and hope one of the parts fixes the issue. You'll run out of money before you run out of guesses.

In my life of screwing with cars, only once has an O2 sensor failed on me, and it was after I pulled the motor so I most likely bumped it against a frame rail or something. :bonk:

They can clear codes for you for the next 5 years if they want, but if you initiate a warranty claim or problem diagnosis before warranty expires, it will still be covered under it.

That's good to know. I always kind of wondered about that.

Part of this is making sure the problem being diagnosed is related.... which is why I keep preaching about keeping records, maintenance, or good relations with a dealer.

When it comes down to it, you just have to convince the dealer that it's in their best interest to resolve your issues.

-alex