2017 BRZ Performance Package Brembo Brakes Part Numbers
 

Diagrams and Part Numbers are now available.

Front Brake Brembo: http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_201...10-262-03.html

Rear Brake 17inch:
http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_201...10-263-03.html

I'm not too much of technician so would anyone be able to chime in on how one would be able to swap the stock brakes to this setup (I'm sure a couple of people are curious)?

That could be a real benefit to some for sure. I would like to know if there is any weight loss with this swap as well.

I would assume you will need the full brake caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor to do a swap. I am not sure if the front rotor is a different size than previous MYs though. same goes for the rear. I haven't really paid much attention to the specifics.

those pad prices wow.

Smart money is on a BBK, not this.

The rotor sizes are the same as the STI. 326x30 front, 316x20 rear. It's not just an STI parts swap though. The pistons are different sizes than the STI calipers; presumably sized for correct bias for our cars.

This.

Am I reading the price right? $300 a caliper?? I assume they have just not updated the pricing yet... The Part number is also the same between the Brembos and the normal calipers.

Almost wondering they are going to require a vin to order them from the dealer.

the pricing for the caliper doesn't seem bad. I wouldn't use the stock pads so the pricing on that part is not a concern.

it looks like just a bolt on bracket to mount it like the current aftermarket solutions.

How can you tell. I cant see any info about the pistons?

Here you go.

Thanks interesting. Surprised there is no piston stagger to help pad tapering.

They have made the front pistons smaller on both the normal disc and Bremo disc. The pistons are 42.8mm on our 2 pot sliders but now ~40mm.

Rears are currently 38mm on the 290mm disc. So going up to 40mm at the back adds more rear braking.

Punching the numbers into my spreadsheet.

The current 2012-2016 model has a brake bias of about 64% to the front.

The new model is now 61% to the front.

The brembo package is 60% to the front.

This compares to the STI Brembo front and rear of 74% to the front.

Caliper isn't even listed :iono:. Looks like we are better off getting a BBK as someone stated above or ATS swap.

Technically "26292A DISK BRAKE KIT-PAD LESS,FRONT LEFT" Is the left brembo caliper. Though the part number/price has not been updated from the non-brembo calipers. So although they are listed, they are not correctly listed? :iono:


http://parts.subaru.com/images/parts...0_26201305.png

So if i'm not mistaken it is close to $1000 or a little over for complete front kit?

I wonder what the adapter looks like.
Or if you can use these rotors with the 300zx calipers

It's not an adapter. It's a Tie bar. If I am not mistake the STIs had these as well? Bolted behind the caliper to help tie the bolt points together better to help with harmonics.

Tie Bar fits on these cars:

Subaru BRZ (20D) 6MT Limited..............................2017
Subaru Impreza (257) 6MT 4WD STI Sedan..............2005
Subaru Impreza 2.5L TURBO 6MT 4WD STI Sedan.....2005
Subaru STI (257) 6MT 4WD SEDAN.........................2005
Subaru STI 2.5L TURBO 6MT 4WD SEDAN.................2005

I think the OEM Brembo option will be nice for cosmetics, but certainly not a great value for actual performance. Here's a basic rundown of the OEM Brembo option vs. our Essex/AP Racing Sprint Kit.

Calipers
The four piston Brembo calipers on the STi, Evo, Focus RS, Corvette, etc. all weigh about 8.2 lbs. These appear to be roughly the same in overall dimension, so that's the weight I expect.


Our AP Racing CP8350 weighs 5.4 lbs.


The Brembo's have aluminum pistons, just like the standard calipers.


Our CP8350 has stainless steel pistons.


They won't have anti-knockback springs, allowing for a soft pedal after a series of S turns.


Our CP8350 has AKB springs.


They'll have dust boots to burn up.


We avoid the mess of dust boots.


With four pistons of the same size (rather than differential bores), pad taper is a potential issue.


Our calipers have differential bores that help prevent pad taper.


The painted finish will fade, change color, etc. if they got hot enough.


Our calipers have a durable anodized finish that holds up very well to long-term track abuse.


The pads will at most be only 16mm thick…possibly 14.7mm thick.
Our caliper uses a 20mm thick pad.


Pads for the OEM Brembo's will range from $250-$450 per set.


Pads for our CP8350 range from $125-$250

Discs


The one-piece 326x30mm disc found on the STI weighs 22.5 lbs.


Our 299x32mm disc weighs 12.2 lbs.


Their disc will have likely have at most 48 vanes.


Our disc has 60 cooling vanes.


Their disc costs $85.


Our spare iron is $173.00, but will definitely last at least twice as long.


In summary, with our Sprint Kit you're going to be carrying 15 unsprung lbs. less per side, or 30 lbs. less on the nose of your car. Twenty pounds of that mass savings will be in the rotating mass of the discs. All of the components in our kit are far more durable and more suited to track use. Pads, which are your most frequently replaced consumable, will be about half price for our kit vs. the ones for the Brembo's. Our 299mm disc will fit a greater variety of smaller, lighter wheels, while still providing fade-free performance for just about everyone. The initial cost of our system will likely be higher, but if you're tracking your car you'd make up the difference in a single season of pad changes since you'll be paying nearly double at every pad change for the Brembo's.



If you're going cram a lot of HP into your car with big boost, we also have the Endurance Kit option. To my knowledge we have never had any FT86 customer ever fade our larger Endurance Kit that features a 325x32mm, 70 vane disc (only one or two have ever even faded the smaller Sprint Kit). Our Endurance Kit also comes with a super trick integrated brake duct provision, which eliminates one more part to buy. Our larger endurance kit will still be roughly 10 lbs. lighter per side, or 20 lbs. lighter than the OEM Brembo option.

We don't offer a rear kit, but rear kits on these cars are primarily for looks anyway. Our customers have been pounding our front-only kits at the track for years now without any issues, seeing flawless performance. Front kits are where you see the big return on investment with these cars.


Unless you're just looking for bling, our Essex Designed AP Racing kits are a no-brainer vs. the factory Brembo option. Unsprung weight, heat rejection, durability, long-term running costs, etc. are all in our favor.

To give you an idea of the relative size of the typical Brembo four piston factory caliper vs. our AP Racing CP8350, here's a pic we snapped the other day when test fitting our kit on a Ford Focus RS. The BRZ calipers will likely be quite similar. They are big, bulky, and heavy when compared to a real racing caliper.

https://www.essexparts.com/imagecach...FocusRS_27.jpg


https://www.essexparts.com/imagecach...FocusRS_28.jpg

https://www.essexparts.com/imagecach...FocusRS_21.jpg

https://www.essexparts.com/imagecach...FocusRS_22.jpg

The difference between our AP Racing discs vs. the Brembo one-piece iron is going to look something like this...ours will have far less weight, far more cooling vanes, wider air gap to flow more air, and be far more attractive!

https://www.essexparts.com/imagecach...FocusRS_24.jpg

Question: I've seen cars with two-piston REAR AP calipers, notably the Rywire ITR. Why doesnt Essex sell a similar kit for the rear of the 86?

Because it's just for bling

I'd buy just to get the ease of changing brake pads... I doubt dust boots would be an issue, but that and a couple other bits would make them attractive... just very expensive for what you really get out of it.

Sliding calipers suck.
Mismatched calipers suck.
Over pistoned rears suck.

I want two piston rears and im sure alot of others do too.

Guess ill piece it together mahself.

We looked at the possibility of a rear kit for these cars back in 2012 when we owned one. We've found the following to be true:

1. Performance- In terms of performance, the OEM rear brakes on USDM cars are more than adequate under just about all conditions. With a set of good pads, you can hammer them on a track all day when mated to the proper front brakes (our Essex/AP Racing Sprint Kit). That has been proven over and over again here on this forum, and on racetracks all over the world. That is the case even on forced induction cars putting out significantly more than OEM HP. We've had cars with our front kits and OEM rear brakes run Endurance races on a road course, Pikes Peak, Targa Newfoundland, etc., all without issue.

2. Weight- The OEM rear brakes are not that heavy. One of the key benefits of our front system is a huge unsprung weight reduction. There's just not nearly as much weight to be saved in the rear.

3. Cost- Most of our customers are far more interested in buying the absolute best front system available for $2k, but they're not terribly interested in spending another $2k for rears. In terms of choosing where to get your best bang-for-the-buck, it's far wiser to buy the best front system you can afford, rather than buying a lesser four wheel big brake kit. That is because the front brakes is where the car is lacking most. A rear BBK is much less critical on this car, and more of a 'nice-to-have,' rather than a necessity. With the rears you quickly hit a point of diminishing returns. You're not making the car much better for a substantial wad of cash.

Exactly. Spending $2k for the convenience of faster pad changes isn't something most of our customers want to do. Also keep in mind that you aren't changing rear pads nearly as frequently as the fronts. Typically you're wearing out and swapping 3-4 sets of front pads for every set of rears, particularly when tracking the car. The front takes the bulk of the abuse, hence the wiser move to buy the best front BBK you can afford.

Just make sure you choose your brake components wisely, or the car is going to perform worse than stock. It's not just as simple as slapping on some calipers that you pull from a difference model of vehicle. That's no different than cutting the springs on your suspension and destroying the car's handling dynamics.

JRitt: ease of swapping pads might get more important for those that swap street pads to track ones on track days and then vice versa when driving home to not squeal when DD. Even if they are not worn down yet due 3-4x slower wear ..

Understood. However, is that worth $2k+ to most FT86 owners? My gut tells me it is likely not. Most people can get away with running a 'mild' race pad in the rear, something like a Ferodo DS2500. They do the trick on track for many people, but still have relatively good street manners. It's not ideal obviously, but a very reasonable compromise.

would it necessarily be $2k if it's just a caliper and bracket kit that uses stock rotors?

@Veloist

are the master cylinder part numbers the same?

Calipers are typically the most expensive brake component. The least expensive AP Racing caliper we currently offer is $599, or $1200 for a pair. Then you have to get them mounted on the car, which requires a custom adapter bracket. Those would be several hundred dollars more (custom designed in CAD, machined from billet aluminum, then anodized, plus mounting hardware). So now you're looking at at $1500+.

That all assumes that you happen to have the perfect caliper in your parts bin. As stated previously, it's not just as simple as grabbing any old caliper out the parts bin and slapping it on the car. Calipers and discs are typically designed to work together. Think of them like peanut butter and jelly. OEM parts and proper racing parts also typically have some fundamentally different design characteristics and objectives. Mixing and matching the two isn't that simple. Below are some of the basic requirements when looking to mate a particular caliper to a particular disc:

• Piston sizing- The caliper in question when combined with the OEM rear disc must provide the proper brake torque output, so the front to rear brake bias on the car isn't fouled up. Piston size combined with the disc diameter generates X amount of brake torque.
• Caliper disc pathway- The caliper also must have the proper disc pathway to accommodate a given disc. OEM discs are typically narrower than the discs mated to racing brake calipers.
  • Thickness/pathway- You can't run a caliper designed for a wider disc on a narrower disc, because you run the risk of over-extending the pistons and getting them cocked in the piston bores.
  • Diameter- Most calipers are also designed to run on a specific range of disc diameters. If you use a disc outside of the caliper's pad radius, you won't have proper pad coverage across the face of the disc. In other words, as the disc outer edge curves, the edge of the pad must perfectly follow that curve. If a disc is too small or too tall in diameter, the pad edges will either not reach the edge of the disc, or hang off the edge of the disc. Those are both bad situations that can cause lots of problems.
  • Radial depth- Pad height, or radial depth, is an important consideration. Most OEM street calipers use a taller pad depth than a racing caliper, as do the discs designed to be run with them. If you run a caliper with a shorter radial depth, the pad won't sweep enough of the disc, leaving a cold spot. There's an acceptable range, but it's not that large.
• Mounting hole spacing/bracket packaging- Many times the mounting holes on a spindle don't allow a particular caliper to be used. Most racing calipers have a spacing of 152mm or 180mm. The OEM spindle spacing may be quite different than that. That means the adapter bracket has to be designed to attach the caliper to the spindle. A caliper bracket has to be of a certain thickness to provide adequate strength/stiffness. When you insert that bracket under the caliper, it pushes the caliper outward, eliminating the possibility of the caliper riding on the disc properly. Various features on the spindle can physically be in the way of caliper body and where it would need to sit. Packaging is very frequently an issue...just physically getting the caliper to occupy the proper space to properly ride the disc.
• Parking brake- Not relevant in this application, but a consideration when looking at rear brake systems. Some have a drum-in-hat design, others a separate little parking brake caliper, others use the primary brake caliper. Figuring out how to maintain the parking brake can be a messy affair.

So let's assume you overcome all of the above engineering challenges, and you find the perfect brake caliper in your parts bin that just so happens to ride on the OEM disc perfectly and output the correct amount of brake torque. What have you gained? Since the OEM rear calipers on these cars are already pretty light, you will only save a small amount of weight. The disc will still be the same OEM unit, so your overall system will still be running at roughly the same temperature (running cooler is the primary goal of any big brake kit). The disc will still also weigh the same. It will still look the same. You'll just have a shiny rear caliper that may offer a slightly easier pad change...on the rare occasion that you actually need to change the rear pads. Personally, for $1500+ that's not a very attractive proposition to me as an enthusiast, and I'm guessing the same holds true for most others.

People will, and do, slap all types of rear brake setups on these cars, but that doesn't mean they're actually improving anything other than looks. In many cases performance is actually hurt more than it is improved.

I think one advantage of Brembos is, that you can run them all the time everywhere. No problems with salt and dust. I cannot recall a BBK for this car that can be run like this.

I'm running rebuilt 06/07 WRX 2 piston rear calipers with an Essex sprint front. Works very well, not too expensive and uses stock rotor. Quick pad changes too.
Brake bias is the same as stock.

Sent from my Z812 using Tapatalk

thanks!

This is because street/OEM Brembo calipers use dust boots which are known to melt on track. I'll be running my RR Racing BBK this winter here in wonderful Canada and I'll be reporting on how my pistons look when the season ends.

This and 2-piece rotors, where the salt is damaging the joints.

Here are some prices.

Front:
http://i.imgur.com/8YNGPtq.jpg

Rear:
http://i.imgur.com/EBJ0jjK.jpg

Not listed are the brake lines which have a different part number and different "high flow" description in the name but same price as the original stock brake lines.

How thick are the pads on the OEM Brembos pads? I know AP's are around 20mm

Keep me posted, that's the biggest reason I don't have a BBK on my car yet I'm too busy/lazy to swap calipers/rotors/etc winter/summer, wheels/tires and pads is enough for me :D.

Sure there are. I have the Cosworth AP racing kit with 356x32mm disc. The CP7040 is a caliper designed for all year round road use but derived from a race caliper. It has all the nice features such as ant rattle shims, dust boots, aluminium pistons ect...

The massive disc means you can run and mild pad without fade at the track and you wont melt the dust boots as temps are quite low.

Tradeoff is it heavy and requires wide 18" wheels to clear.

Good good. And do you have 2-piece rotors? They don't like salt much, do you have any feedback on that?

Generally I agree, for street the milder pads the better, and running pads that needs heat to work on street is totally wrong in my opinion.

But when I look at your kit's price, I think that the Brembo upgrade will be still good for more performance oriented guys but not people who live on track of course. I imagine adding a cooling, changing fluid and pads a they should be quite capable for a good price in the OEM package :popcorn:

Yes they are a bolted rotor. Aluminium bell and AP racing bolt which are very corrosion resistant. Had a friend with a similar AP kit on his Impreza STI for 8 years and the bolt were still solid and came right off to replace the disc. This is in the UK where they use salt on the roads in the winter.

I agree the brembo is more affordable, especial used. I have a buddy who I do some trackdays with. He has the full brembo and a harrop supercharger. He needs to run more aggressive pads than I do otherwise he gets fade. ALso the Iron Brembo caliper are heavy and absorb and store more heat than aluminium so he uses titanium shims.

Its understandable as its a 325x30mm disc vs the 356x32mm AP disc. Time will tell if he burns the paint, but he went for black which makes it less noticeable.

Mine are bright yellow which shows any sign of burning by going a nice shade of brown. :bonk:

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...pshfk2w3iw.jpg