Can Toyota's 103 FIPG silicone be used in timing chain cover?
 

I recently replaced my timing chain cover because the old one had a busted thread for one of the sensors. My question is whether or not It's ok to substitute subaru's gray silicone which comes on the motor, with Toyota's 103 fipg silicone. My toyota dealership didn't have the special gray and just had the black.

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Sounds like you will find out ........... ;)


Sorry, no help here ..... :sigh:


humfrz

FYI - Front cover R&R is critical that you:
1 - Clean up the old sealant and make sure none of it gets in the galleys
2 - apply the new sealant exactly where it needs to go, and it must be done quickly before the RTV has a chance to "skin" over before mating the pieces.
The RTV called out by the manufacturer might have a slow cure rate so that you can apply it correctly before it begins to dry.


My personal theory is that doing this step half-assed is the main cause of rebuilt engine failures.


May I ask why you chose to do this yourself instead of warranty?

I'm not under warranty. A new/used engine is in my car. The timing chain cover that came on my new engine was leaking more than my previous motor, which I blew from a Watergate issue. I took the timing chain cover from my previous motor, and applied it to my new motor since the new motor has a crack where the bottom right cam position sensor sits. The timing chain cover had no threading to secure the timing chain sensor in place because it was missing half the thread. And that is why I had to use the timing chain cover from my previous motor, and apply it to the engine currently in the car.

If it were under warranty, would take my FRS to the dealership in a heart beat!. :p

But since you sound like you know a lot about these platforms, do you think Toyota's 103 FIPG silicone will securely seal the timing chain cover to the engine without having to worry about any leaks? Its what I used, and haven't had any leaks yet. But then again, I only ran it for about 25 miles.. Idk.. I'm worried that it might fail.

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IMO engine sealants should always use what the mfg specifies. Not just the type, but the exact model and color. Sometimes these sealants have a weird cure rate, or like to sit for a bit, or are extra resistant to some weird other chemical commonly used near them etc.

The OEM's spend a ton to develop this stuff instead of just using off the shelf RTV, it's often worth using what they thing is best.

That's what I asked for, but by the time I had already taken off the cover, I noticed I got a black silicone instead of a gray from toyota. The three bond and fipg or both form in place gaskets.. I just don't know if Toyota's fipg is going to be as durable as subaru's gray silicone.. That's my biggest concerm

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When we build motors we have never used anything else besides the sealant from the manufacturer. I would stick with whats proven and avoid the chance of taking the front back off.

Shit.. 😳

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Have you had any experience with Toyota's 103 fipg? Its what I put on since that's what they gave me.. I should have checked it before taking off the timing chain cover. And at the time, I didn't want to wait till the next couple days to get the gray since this is my daily.

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Oh, heck, Astroboy ....... since you have already done it .......I'd leave it alone and just check for leaks now & then.

Why fix what ain't broke ...... :popcorn:


humfrz

Lol exactly what I'm doing. Just waiting for some one to write, "don't worry, you'll be fine", to kill the anxiety

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Don't worry. You'll be fine.

Good stuff. I suggest this step be added as, in my experience with specifying adhesives and standardizing application protocols, I have learned the single most important aspect of a successful adhesive joint is most often the one that is overlooked. It am personally convinced this is the main culprit for all those failed second, third, and fourth attempts at repairing the timing cover leaks.

Step 1.5 - Thoroughly clean and degrease the mating surfaces before applying the adhesive. Acetone usually works well. Do not use regular kitchen paper towels as they are treated with wetting agents that are left behind. Those hypoallergenic cotton pads are good. So are cleanroom wipes but those are expensive.

I'd like to add on what you and @Ultramaroon have to say:

Step 0.5

When you remove the cover ..... do it GENTLY. Do not use FAT screwdrivers or NASTY little crowbars.

After removing all the bolts, I would gently warm the area you are going to start prying on with a torch ...... then carefully slip (tap) in a THIN bladed putty knife ....... working your way all the way around the cover. Make a second pass without the heat and hopefully the cover will pop off and you won't leave any significant marks.


NOT the redneck way ....... Bubba, hand me that big fat screwdriver and hammer ........ I'll have that puppy off before you can finish that beer ...... :D


humfrz